Monday, May 04, 2009

Pic du Perthus climbs

Crag: Pic du Perthus, Esterel, France
Routes: Reynard aux 8000 couleurs (f5b+,f5c,f5a+:led p.1,p.3), M'as-tu Vu? (f5b+:led), Les Jeunes Loups (f5b:sec), En attendant god off p.1 (f5c:led), Profit au Tyrol p.2 (f5c:sec)

After a good night's sleep, and a beautiful Agay dawn, the time seemed right for a day on the Esterel's most impressive crag. Pic du Perthus is a tremendous venue - a good half hour walk from Col de Mistral, and therefore has a powerful, remote atmosphere. Remarkable, given its proximity to the coast. We walked down the defunct road then up the new track to the bottom of the crag, going straight across to the far right of the cliff and what I hoped was the start of Reynard. Bit of guesswork, as the first pitch goes up a slabby corner to gain an easier broken section. Then two steep walls with interesting moves on small positive holds gain a lovely belay ledge. A good 40m pitch with a strong mountaineering flavour, delightfully varied. Vic then led the excellent second pitch, more sustained - top end British VS - on perfect rock up little walls and flakes to gain another atmospheric ledge near the top of the crag. I completed the route with a delicate slab which led to finishing jugs. Grande classique - a great mountaineering route in a fabulous position. We scrambled down the descent gully to the 25m slab of perfect rock which I remembered from my last visit in 1994. I led M'as-tu vu at the left of the slab. Steeper than the other routes with a very hard start (one rest). Felt 6a+ at least. Then sustained but positive small holds led to the top. Seconded the splendid Jeunes Loups (f5b) which I did in 1994 - superb gently sustained climbing on perfect rock, solutions never obvious, good satisfying moves. The slab was sun-drenched and hot, so we moved back to the main face as I was keen for Vic to sample the corner line of Profit au Tyrol, a route that's lived in my memory since 1994. I decided to vary the route up to it, taking the direct pitch of En attendant god off (f5c). This was an excellent 25m British HVS pitch. A steep series of grooves, all leading logically to the large belay ledge - small jugs and fine, satisfying climbing. Seconded Vic up the fabulous top corner of Profit au Tyrol: steep all the way, but festooned with ludicrously perfect holds, particularly on the final overhang. Two abs saw us back at the foot of the crag as the first drop of rain fell. Light drizzle as we walked back, then a downpour all afternoon (but we'd planned to get food anyway!). I went for a 5 mile run (the 'Germain' circuit) around the Esterel later that evening.

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