Wednesday, May 06, 2009

Colle sur Loup climbs

Crag: Colle sur Loup, Alpes-Maritimes, France
Routes: Le triomphe des grosses (f5b:sec), Ainsi grimpait Patrick (f6a+:sec), Altitude 1664 (f6a:sec), Sourire Kabyle (f6a:sec), Le grimpeur du val (f5b:led), Monsieur Spoc (f5c:sec), Bibi et Fricotin (f5b:sec), Le Maitre des equilibres (f6a+:sec), Ethylia (f5c:led), Le chouchou (f3:sol), L'age des cavernes (f4:sol), Horizontal illimite (f3:sol), Genie sans frotter (f3:sol), Si la terre (f3:sol)

We dubbed this the 'airport crag', since it seems to be the closest climbing to Nice airport. Hardly the best crag in Provence, but still a good choice for the inevitably short final day. The crag (Bagaree) is extremely convenient, even by French standards, with names/grades given on an official plaque beside the cliff. It was a pleasant change to sample some limestone after Esterel's rhyolite, although all the routes were extremely polished. Nice locale, too, in a small gorge right next to the River Loup. Vic led the corner of Le Triomphe, and we took the opportunity to TR the harder routes right. All involved similar moves to gain and then leave a series of horizontal breaks: lots of long reaches and tenuous pushes required for success. Sourire Kabyle 6a took a couple of attempts to work out the sequence. I led the juggy 5b wall of Le grimpeur, followed by the good line of Monsieur Spoc - a waterworn 5c groove, very polished. Le Maitre des equilibres was another notable 6a+ involving a sustained bouldery sequence of moves to gain a jug at the break. Finished in fine style, with a lead of Ethylia which seemed perhaps the line of the crag. Ultra-polished, like marble in places, but I polished it off pleasingly comfortably. Steep moves gain the top of a big flake. Then a steep but juggy wall gains a final layback to the top. Easily the best route of the day, a nice finale. Played around on a few microroutes at the end of the crag, ostensibly to assess their suitability for the family when we come in July, but also to bring the route total up to 40 for the four days of the trip! Left for the airport after a relaxing paddle in the Loup.

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