Crag: Castell Helen, Anglesey
Routes: Lighthouse Arete Direct (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2),
Crag: Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
Routes: Stairs (S: led), Cursing (VS 4c: sec)
Rather unlucky with the weather today. What might have been a really memorable trip petered out in classic coastal drizzle, wind and clag. That said, at least I was able to sample this excellent venue before the worst of the weather. Dull and dank as we descended to the base of Castell Helen. Conditions far from ideal as I belayed in the very wet (high tide) niche, lashed by occasional big waves and relishing the atmosphere - razorbills flying just a few feet away, seals bobbing around in the rough sea. Wind and some drizzle as I seconded Vic up the good first pitch of the direct, which goes up easy shelves to a steep crack on good holds: all rather greasy in the conditions. I was cold and wet after the stance, which wasn't pleasant. I then led the crux pitch of the normal route - just one move really, over a mini overhang to gain a very nice crack. Good holds and good gear allow you to enjoy the fabulous position. After a ledge, I continued up the easy final pitch of the arete: short walls and easy climbing but stopped a few metres below the top due to rope drag. Started to rain a bit harder as we topped out so we went to the cafe to consider our options. Decided against another Castell Helen route, a real shame, but retreated sensibly to the mountain - a 20 min walk - where I merged both pitches of Stairs (S). This is very simple, so I followed the arete left for more interest (had no guidebook). Pleasant enough. Vic then led the much better Cursing (VS 4c), a very good route with two splendid moves: one up a steep flake to the arete, and then a swing under the top roof to gain the final diagonal crack. Good, varied pitch. Downclimbed the pinnacle and led the Plimsoll scramble to finish as the rain began in earnest and the crag disappeared into the mist.
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