Monday, June 29, 2009
Bryn Alyn run
A hot and humid evening run from Cadole over to Bryn Alyn with Neil. From Maeshafn, we entered the cooler woods and followed the 'beast' race route down to Pot Hole and up the climb to the top of Bryn Alyn. Then back to Maeshafn by the side of the quarry, and good running down to Cadole.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Craig y Forwen, Castle Inn, Famau run
Crag: Craig y Forwen, Llanddulas
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2)
Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 1 (f5: led), Route 2 (f6a: led)
Climbing was first banned on this tremendous crag a year or two before I started in 1988 or so. As my local crag, it was obviously a huge loss. Twenty years on, and the prospect of access seemed back on the cards last year before the barely credible fact emerged that the awkward landowner didn't own the central section after all. Anyway, we'd researched the access situation carefully and understood that some of the routes on the edge of the cliff were legitimate. Parked according to BMC guidance and headed down to the crag, a seminal moment after all these years. Vic led the first pitch of Route 66. Obviously recently cleaned, but still felt like not many people had done the route for a couple of decades. Good climbing though, with a short corner followed by a nice traverse to a steepish arete up to the belay ledge. Good gear, enjoyable throughout. I led on through the rather dirty but easy-angled corner to the top. Eager for more, for obvious reasons, I led the easy first pitch up the corner of Sangfroid, a classic HVS (still a legitimate climb, supposedly). Vic was half way up the steep flake on the second pitch when an aggressive shout came from below the trees. There followed a torrent of abuse - you are trespassing, get off the cliffs, and worse. We stayed silent and eventually both lowered off without confrontation, it being rather unpleasant to climb with an unseen lunatic shouting below the crag. This section of cliff is supposedly fine to climb on - the better routes on the main cliff still barred, for whatever reason - so it really seems unacceptable for this to happen, particularly as we were unobtrusive to the point of being virtually silent. No idea who was hurling the abuse, but to have the prospect of access to the crag dangled and then taken away just seems ridiculous. We retreated without conflict to Castle Inn, where we both led the two old favourites (the f6a and the arete, must have done them at least 10 times) before torrential melting hail drove us off. Then drove to Cadole in tropical monsoon conditions for a long run (9m+?) up a humid and misty Famau via the Cilcain reservoirs and down the normal ascent route. Rehydrated at the Collie.
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2)
Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 1 (f5: led), Route 2 (f6a: led)
Climbing was first banned on this tremendous crag a year or two before I started in 1988 or so. As my local crag, it was obviously a huge loss. Twenty years on, and the prospect of access seemed back on the cards last year before the barely credible fact emerged that the awkward landowner didn't own the central section after all. Anyway, we'd researched the access situation carefully and understood that some of the routes on the edge of the cliff were legitimate. Parked according to BMC guidance and headed down to the crag, a seminal moment after all these years. Vic led the first pitch of Route 66. Obviously recently cleaned, but still felt like not many people had done the route for a couple of decades. Good climbing though, with a short corner followed by a nice traverse to a steepish arete up to the belay ledge. Good gear, enjoyable throughout. I led on through the rather dirty but easy-angled corner to the top. Eager for more, for obvious reasons, I led the easy first pitch up the corner of Sangfroid, a classic HVS (still a legitimate climb, supposedly). Vic was half way up the steep flake on the second pitch when an aggressive shout came from below the trees. There followed a torrent of abuse - you are trespassing, get off the cliffs, and worse. We stayed silent and eventually both lowered off without confrontation, it being rather unpleasant to climb with an unseen lunatic shouting below the crag. This section of cliff is supposedly fine to climb on - the better routes on the main cliff still barred, for whatever reason - so it really seems unacceptable for this to happen, particularly as we were unobtrusive to the point of being virtually silent. No idea who was hurling the abuse, but to have the prospect of access to the crag dangled and then taken away just seems ridiculous. We retreated without conflict to Castle Inn, where we both led the two old favourites (the f6a and the arete, must have done them at least 10 times) before torrential melting hail drove us off. Then drove to Cadole in tropical monsoon conditions for a long run (9m+?) up a humid and misty Famau via the Cilcain reservoirs and down the normal ascent route. Rehydrated at the Collie.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Moelwyn traverse
Peaks: Cnicht, Moelwyn Mawr, Craigysgafn, Moelwyn Bach, Moel yr Hydd, Foel Ddu, Allt Fawr, Moel Druman, Ysgafell Wen South, Moel Llynau'r-cwn, Ysgafell Wen, Moel Meirch, Cerrig Cochion, Carnedd y Gribiau, Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen, Moel Siabod
This was intended to be a considerably more ambitious outing, but my attempt at a solo, unsupported '40 at 40' ended in predictable failure. However, it was still an enjoyable outing which demonstrated the feasibility of the route (for next year). Poor weather had stymied the initial attempt, and I did this on a whim - knowing the route would be harder in reverse. Wonderful weather, perfectly clear and sunny with a cooling easterly wind on the summits. Easy jogging from Croesor up the always enjoyable route to Cnicht - fabulous seaward views as I topped out in 35 mins. Then a hugely enjoyable run down to Llyn yr Adar and across - boggily - to the quarry and long ridge up Moelwyn Mawr. Down over the rocky ridge to Craigysgafn, then good running up the contouring path up Moelwyn Bach. Back the same way before finally starting to head in the right direction! An easy pull up Moel yr Hydd, then the ridge over Foel Ddu, to arrive back at Rhosydd quarry. I tried a short-cut to Llyn Conglog, but this proved problematic - very steep rocky terrain east of the crags above Cwmorthin. After a long slog, I skirted Conglog for the long detour out to the summit of Allt Fawr. Good running across Moel Druman to the three Ysgafell Wen peaks and - after a bite to eat - prospects were looking reasonably good. I was behind schedule, but feeling OK. The mistake was not to take on enough water at what proved the last watersource below Conglog. The long northerly traverse across very boggy terrain to Siabod therefore became extremely uncomforable. The problem then becomes one of motivation - without support, it is hard to get through the inevitable rough patches. Things initially went well, though. The sharp little peak of Moel Meirch, with its summit rock garden and perfect Llyn Edno beneath, is perhaps the most beautiful spot in Snowdonia - yet this was only my second or third visit. The rest of the ridge up to Siabod was entirely new territory for me, and I discovered pretty quickly that it is very hard going over frequent boggy hollows and hidden valleys. I became more and more dehydrated over the minor summits leading to Siabod and was finally forced to contour below the summit of Siabod in a rather desperate search for a stream. Found one eventually but by now it was obvious that I was too far behind schedule to complete the route in a day. My legs felt OK, but there seemed no point overly exerting myself given the time, so I phoned K who kindly picked me up from Capel.
This was intended to be a considerably more ambitious outing, but my attempt at a solo, unsupported '40 at 40' ended in predictable failure. However, it was still an enjoyable outing which demonstrated the feasibility of the route (for next year). Poor weather had stymied the initial attempt, and I did this on a whim - knowing the route would be harder in reverse. Wonderful weather, perfectly clear and sunny with a cooling easterly wind on the summits. Easy jogging from Croesor up the always enjoyable route to Cnicht - fabulous seaward views as I topped out in 35 mins. Then a hugely enjoyable run down to Llyn yr Adar and across - boggily - to the quarry and long ridge up Moelwyn Mawr. Down over the rocky ridge to Craigysgafn, then good running up the contouring path up Moelwyn Bach. Back the same way before finally starting to head in the right direction! An easy pull up Moel yr Hydd, then the ridge over Foel Ddu, to arrive back at Rhosydd quarry. I tried a short-cut to Llyn Conglog, but this proved problematic - very steep rocky terrain east of the crags above Cwmorthin. After a long slog, I skirted Conglog for the long detour out to the summit of Allt Fawr. Good running across Moel Druman to the three Ysgafell Wen peaks and - after a bite to eat - prospects were looking reasonably good. I was behind schedule, but feeling OK. The mistake was not to take on enough water at what proved the last watersource below Conglog. The long northerly traverse across very boggy terrain to Siabod therefore became extremely uncomforable. The problem then becomes one of motivation - without support, it is hard to get through the inevitable rough patches. Things initially went well, though. The sharp little peak of Moel Meirch, with its summit rock garden and perfect Llyn Edno beneath, is perhaps the most beautiful spot in Snowdonia - yet this was only my second or third visit. The rest of the ridge up to Siabod was entirely new territory for me, and I discovered pretty quickly that it is very hard going over frequent boggy hollows and hidden valleys. I became more and more dehydrated over the minor summits leading to Siabod and was finally forced to contour below the summit of Siabod in a rather desperate search for a stream. Found one eventually but by now it was obvious that I was too far behind schedule to complete the route in a day. My legs felt OK, but there seemed no point overly exerting myself given the time, so I phoned K who kindly picked me up from Capel.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
The Druid race
Race: The Druid fell race (5m/1200ft)
Time/position: 36:01 (10th from 84)
A shortened route for this, the opening race of the Clwydian summer series. I think it's my fourth running of the event, definitely a favourite, albeit a little too fast for me! But a lovely route and the usual relaxed, friendly atmosphere. A reasonable evening after a wet day, too. My first short race for a good while: I didn't climb particularly well, especially on the steepest bits, which was a bit disappointing. The altered route went along the rim of the hillfort, rather than the usual dip down to Penbarras, and I was part of a trio heather bashing up to the easier path, which lost a little time. Then a reasonable descent, passing two immediately, but couldn't quite catch the next group and ended up a second or two behind Neil and another runner.
Time/position: 36:01 (10th from 84)
A shortened route for this, the opening race of the Clwydian summer series. I think it's my fourth running of the event, definitely a favourite, albeit a little too fast for me! But a lovely route and the usual relaxed, friendly atmosphere. A reasonable evening after a wet day, too. My first short race for a good while: I didn't climb particularly well, especially on the steepest bits, which was a bit disappointing. The altered route went along the rim of the hillfort, rather than the usual dip down to Penbarras, and I was part of a trio heather bashing up to the easier path, which lost a little time. Then a reasonable descent, passing two immediately, but couldn't quite catch the next group and ended up a second or two behind Neil and another runner.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Stanage climbs
Crag: Stanage, Peak
Routes: Inaccessible Slab (S 4c:sol), Inaccessible Crack Direct (VS 4c:sec), Cave Buttress (S 4b:led), Lost Soul (S:sol), Norse Corner Climb (HS 4c:sec), Limbo (S:sol), Tango Buttress (HS 5a:led), Youth (VD:sol), Warm Afternoon (VD:sol), Ice Cream Flakes (VD:sol), Side Plate (S 4b:sol), Duo Crack Climb (VD:sol), Staircase Rib (D:sol), Birthday Buttress (VS 4b:led), Feathered Friends (VS 4b:sec), Kelly's Crack (VD:downclimbed), Kelly's Eye (HS 4b:led), Bright Eyed (VS 4b:sol), Emily May (S:sol), Clegg (HVD:sol), Midge (D:sol)
Rather tired after a long day yesterday, but managed to rouse myself for this early morning (7.15am!) trip to Stanage. Brief visits notwithstanding, this was my first full day on grit since 1997. Had no particular routes in mind, given the time elapsed since my last visit. Perhaps I should have been more focused on the classics, but it was far too crowded for my tastes and I decided instead to take the opportunity to increase the climbing mileage and bag a good few routes while re-acquainting myself with grit, which takes time. After a brief microroute, I seconded Dale up the powerful line of Inaccessible Crack. I'd done the normal indirect version of this before with Tim, and even dredged up a vague memory of the final section - an enjoyable blast up a steep crack. I led Cave Buttress to ease myself back. After an awkward start, an easy slab leads to a fine traverse right over a rounded arete to a rather rounded finish via a couple of breaks. Enjoyable. Quickly nipped solo up Lost Soul, eager for as much action as possible, finishing up Tango Crack. Then followed Dale up Norse Corner, with its very awkward start up a steep wall via a big pocket and an undercut to moves right up a slabby corner, then an easy layback to finish. After another rapid solo of Limbo, I led Tango Buttress on a single 9mm. Splendid fun, perhaps the route of the day. A delicate, semi-technical 5a start leads to a beautiful grit slab. Moves on little edges to a flake on the right, then more delicate climbing leads to a juggy finish. We moved away from crowded High Neb after lunch, to the unsung buttresses further left. A bit of a feeding frenzy followed, with fun solo trips up the enjoyable Youth (a nice crack), followed by three more similar but less defined routes (although Side Plate was a nice trip up a slabby arete). Another move left to another quiet buttress, and the fine Duo Cracks - nipped up in less than a minute, and the juggy, novel romp up the detached Staircase Rib. Dale suggested moving to Birthday Buttress, and I led the eponymous route. A poor decision. I should have chosen more prudently. Steep moves up to an obvious hand traverse line, with little for the feet, led to an arete right. An awkward mantel gained the big ledge and end of all difficulties. An unexpectedly strenuous and not very good route, which took far too much effort given my tiredness after yesterday. We moved to Crow Chin, back among the crowds. Seconded Dale up the slab of Feathered Friends, then downclimbed Kelly's Crack with its famous wobbly chockstone. Sudden tiredness kicked in as I led Kelly's Eye, starting too far left before moving back to the big flake and delicate finish. Bright Eyed and Emily May were nice short solos on lovely rough rock, whilst Clegg and Midge were silly additions much further right - involving an unwelcome longish walk - just to push the route tally above 20! Shame I wasn't a bit fresher and more focused for this, but a good day nonetheless. Nice weather too, and good views gave me the satisfaction of reflecting on the Edale Skyline fell race I did in late March: because the entire race route is visible when one belays above the edge.
Routes: Inaccessible Slab (S 4c:sol), Inaccessible Crack Direct (VS 4c:sec), Cave Buttress (S 4b:led), Lost Soul (S:sol), Norse Corner Climb (HS 4c:sec), Limbo (S:sol), Tango Buttress (HS 5a:led), Youth (VD:sol), Warm Afternoon (VD:sol), Ice Cream Flakes (VD:sol), Side Plate (S 4b:sol), Duo Crack Climb (VD:sol), Staircase Rib (D:sol), Birthday Buttress (VS 4b:led), Feathered Friends (VS 4b:sec), Kelly's Crack (VD:downclimbed), Kelly's Eye (HS 4b:led), Bright Eyed (VS 4b:sol), Emily May (S:sol), Clegg (HVD:sol), Midge (D:sol)
Rather tired after a long day yesterday, but managed to rouse myself for this early morning (7.15am!) trip to Stanage. Brief visits notwithstanding, this was my first full day on grit since 1997. Had no particular routes in mind, given the time elapsed since my last visit. Perhaps I should have been more focused on the classics, but it was far too crowded for my tastes and I decided instead to take the opportunity to increase the climbing mileage and bag a good few routes while re-acquainting myself with grit, which takes time. After a brief microroute, I seconded Dale up the powerful line of Inaccessible Crack. I'd done the normal indirect version of this before with Tim, and even dredged up a vague memory of the final section - an enjoyable blast up a steep crack. I led Cave Buttress to ease myself back. After an awkward start, an easy slab leads to a fine traverse right over a rounded arete to a rather rounded finish via a couple of breaks. Enjoyable. Quickly nipped solo up Lost Soul, eager for as much action as possible, finishing up Tango Crack. Then followed Dale up Norse Corner, with its very awkward start up a steep wall via a big pocket and an undercut to moves right up a slabby corner, then an easy layback to finish. After another rapid solo of Limbo, I led Tango Buttress on a single 9mm. Splendid fun, perhaps the route of the day. A delicate, semi-technical 5a start leads to a beautiful grit slab. Moves on little edges to a flake on the right, then more delicate climbing leads to a juggy finish. We moved away from crowded High Neb after lunch, to the unsung buttresses further left. A bit of a feeding frenzy followed, with fun solo trips up the enjoyable Youth (a nice crack), followed by three more similar but less defined routes (although Side Plate was a nice trip up a slabby arete). Another move left to another quiet buttress, and the fine Duo Cracks - nipped up in less than a minute, and the juggy, novel romp up the detached Staircase Rib. Dale suggested moving to Birthday Buttress, and I led the eponymous route. A poor decision. I should have chosen more prudently. Steep moves up to an obvious hand traverse line, with little for the feet, led to an arete right. An awkward mantel gained the big ledge and end of all difficulties. An unexpectedly strenuous and not very good route, which took far too much effort given my tiredness after yesterday. We moved to Crow Chin, back among the crowds. Seconded Dale up the slab of Feathered Friends, then downclimbed Kelly's Crack with its famous wobbly chockstone. Sudden tiredness kicked in as I led Kelly's Eye, starting too far left before moving back to the big flake and delicate finish. Bright Eyed and Emily May were nice short solos on lovely rough rock, whilst Clegg and Midge were silly additions much further right - involving an unwelcome longish walk - just to push the route tally above 20! Shame I wasn't a bit fresher and more focused for this, but a good day nonetheless. Nice weather too, and good views gave me the satisfaction of reflecting on the Edale Skyline fell race I did in late March: because the entire race route is visible when one belays above the edge.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Clogwyn Cyrau climbs, and Famau run
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:led), Jingling Wall (HS 4b,4b: led p.2), Long Climb Direct (S:led p.1,2 merged), Hen Bryd (S:sec), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Morus (VD:sol), Eliminate Start (VS 5a:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:led)
My sole previous visit to this crag was probably 16 years ago, when we scratched around on some short routes in pouring rain. This was a highly enjoyable day on an ultra-relaxing low key crag, just picking off some of the minor classics. Conwy Corner and Jingling Wall are easily the best lines, and I began with a lead of the former on Conwy Buttress: a very obvious right-angled corner, an irresistable line. It was a lovely pitch with nice incut jugs, easy bridging, and good protection. A bit of drizzle on this, but the rain fortunately held off. A long descent from the corner landed us next to Small Buttress, where we nipped up The Groove and Sion in double-quick time. We then moved over to Main Cliff for the splendid Jingling Wall. Alwyn led the first pitch - a steepish groove on good holds leads to a move right to gain another sloping groove then a nice slab back left to a belay. I then led the second: a steep but very enjoyable groove in a great position above Betws. Delightful ambience at the belay - this line is fairly obvious from the town, and the views down (and over to Siabod and the Carneddau) are excellent. Jingling Wall was so much fun we were eager for more, and I led Long Climb Direct straight after lunch. Another surprisingly good route. Up 'steps' to a ledge, then more steeply up an open groove to a round spike and steeper climbing on good holds to the belay ledge. It seemed obvious to merge the pitches, so I threaded the oak then continued up the steeper but juggy second pitch up a crack. Again, wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable climbing. The sun started to peep out as I seconded Alwyn up Hen Bryd. Similar to the other two, but not quite as distinguished. Nice moves round a little overhang to a ledge and another juggy finish. We rounded the day off with more easy routes on Small Buttress. I may well have done some of these on my previous visit. Sian, Siencyn and Morus were polished off in a few minutes (probably used by outdoor centres, rather polished but ideal for children). Finished with the 5a Eliminate Start to Direct Route, then The Arete - a great way to end, as this route is clearly visible from Betws. A tricky undercut start leads to easy climbing up a slender arete. Down well before 3pm, plenty of time for some food before the hour-long drive to Cadole where I did the full run up and down Moel Famau from the pub in 1:14. A couple of pints were much appreciated at the end of a long day.
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:led), Jingling Wall (HS 4b,4b: led p.2), Long Climb Direct (S:led p.1,2 merged), Hen Bryd (S:sec), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Morus (VD:sol), Eliminate Start (VS 5a:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:led)
My sole previous visit to this crag was probably 16 years ago, when we scratched around on some short routes in pouring rain. This was a highly enjoyable day on an ultra-relaxing low key crag, just picking off some of the minor classics. Conwy Corner and Jingling Wall are easily the best lines, and I began with a lead of the former on Conwy Buttress: a very obvious right-angled corner, an irresistable line. It was a lovely pitch with nice incut jugs, easy bridging, and good protection. A bit of drizzle on this, but the rain fortunately held off. A long descent from the corner landed us next to Small Buttress, where we nipped up The Groove and Sion in double-quick time. We then moved over to Main Cliff for the splendid Jingling Wall. Alwyn led the first pitch - a steepish groove on good holds leads to a move right to gain another sloping groove then a nice slab back left to a belay. I then led the second: a steep but very enjoyable groove in a great position above Betws. Delightful ambience at the belay - this line is fairly obvious from the town, and the views down (and over to Siabod and the Carneddau) are excellent. Jingling Wall was so much fun we were eager for more, and I led Long Climb Direct straight after lunch. Another surprisingly good route. Up 'steps' to a ledge, then more steeply up an open groove to a round spike and steeper climbing on good holds to the belay ledge. It seemed obvious to merge the pitches, so I threaded the oak then continued up the steeper but juggy second pitch up a crack. Again, wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable climbing. The sun started to peep out as I seconded Alwyn up Hen Bryd. Similar to the other two, but not quite as distinguished. Nice moves round a little overhang to a ledge and another juggy finish. We rounded the day off with more easy routes on Small Buttress. I may well have done some of these on my previous visit. Sian, Siencyn and Morus were polished off in a few minutes (probably used by outdoor centres, rather polished but ideal for children). Finished with the 5a Eliminate Start to Direct Route, then The Arete - a great way to end, as this route is clearly visible from Betws. A tricky undercut start leads to easy climbing up a slender arete. Down well before 3pm, plenty of time for some food before the hour-long drive to Cadole where I did the full run up and down Moel Famau from the pub in 1:14. A couple of pints were much appreciated at the end of a long day.
Tuesday, June 09, 2009
Frodsham, Waun y Llyn
Tired after the race, so jogged up to and around Woodhouse Hill at Frodsham yesterday evening. Felt OK, and did Intermediate Route (5a) and other bouldering: crag damp and green throughout. Followed up with a longer run over Waun y Llyn to Coed Talon and back today. Worrying twinge below left knee.
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Welsh 1000m peaks race
Race: Welsh 1000m peaks fell race (22m/8000ft)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 5:21:28 (8th from 82 starters in Class A, 31 finished)
A weird sense of deja vu after finishing this race oblivious to any media interest, then seeing it on the news while relaxing at home in the evening. Rather strange to have been involved in this as well as last year's OMM (and also quite pleasing to have completed both in relative comfort before any subsequent 'abandonment'). It was a cracking day out, very much my cup of tea. The weather was bad, but nothing particularly unusual, more 'unseasonal'. The wind is the real issue, and it was only really strong between Llewellyn and Dafydd, and on top of Snowdon. I wore helly, windproof and waterproofs - and packed a sac with extra clothes. Seemed to do the trick, as I was relatively comfortable throughout. Started in heavy rain from Aber, then took it nice and easy up to Aber falls and Cwm Afon Goch. The slog up the slope below Bera Mawr comes immediately afterwards and is probably the toughest climb of the race. I got the compass out as the ground flattened out, took a line SW to pick up the cairned track which leads over to join the main track up Foel Grach. Skirted this (but deliberately missed the shortcuts further west, given poor viz), then ran up the main track to Llewellyn where my hands froze in a cold wind. Took 5 mins to get my gloves on, then enjoyed the very windy crossing to Dafydd - wild and exhilarating, no-one else in sight at this point. Very thick clag as I retraced my steps then took a vague bearing east to land dead on control FS (which was in the wrong place). Steeply down to the lake, then the awful tarmac down to the A5. Ate almost all I had on the long climb up Nant yr Ogof - the rain had eased slightly at this point and I felt OK after the food (wet liquorice is not ideal though!). Crested the Glyder ridge bang on Llyn Caseg Fraith. Given the importance of locating the next checkpoint, I got the map out and took proper bearings across the plateau. Definitely worth taking the extra time here! Virtually bumped into the marshall, so thick was the mist, then had a reasonably quick descent of the Miner's track, far more comfortable than last year (although my finishing time this year was nearly 15 mins down on 2008). Passed two runners on this descent, and - although I didn't know it - was 3rd or 4th at Pen y Pass after the lakeside bog. Lost 3 or 4 places immediately as others caught me on the lower Pyg track. But the race was in the bag, and I just tried to maintain reasonable pace - running where it levels off - up to a very windy Carnedd Ugain and Snowdon. A rather hostile summit, so I just ran down to Clogwyn, put on my fleece, and trotted down to Halfway House for a cup of tea and some chocolate. Another jog down to Electric Mountain (making the day a 27.5 mile ultra?!), where I met K,M,E. Only realised that things had gone wrong lower down the field (airlifts etc) when I watched the news later that evening. Over 50 in the fell runners A class retired (many presumably forced to stop at Ogwen), with similar proportions retiring in the other 6 (?) classes.
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 5:21:28 (8th from 82 starters in Class A, 31 finished)
A weird sense of deja vu after finishing this race oblivious to any media interest, then seeing it on the news while relaxing at home in the evening. Rather strange to have been involved in this as well as last year's OMM (and also quite pleasing to have completed both in relative comfort before any subsequent 'abandonment'). It was a cracking day out, very much my cup of tea. The weather was bad, but nothing particularly unusual, more 'unseasonal'. The wind is the real issue, and it was only really strong between Llewellyn and Dafydd, and on top of Snowdon. I wore helly, windproof and waterproofs - and packed a sac with extra clothes. Seemed to do the trick, as I was relatively comfortable throughout. Started in heavy rain from Aber, then took it nice and easy up to Aber falls and Cwm Afon Goch. The slog up the slope below Bera Mawr comes immediately afterwards and is probably the toughest climb of the race. I got the compass out as the ground flattened out, took a line SW to pick up the cairned track which leads over to join the main track up Foel Grach. Skirted this (but deliberately missed the shortcuts further west, given poor viz), then ran up the main track to Llewellyn where my hands froze in a cold wind. Took 5 mins to get my gloves on, then enjoyed the very windy crossing to Dafydd - wild and exhilarating, no-one else in sight at this point. Very thick clag as I retraced my steps then took a vague bearing east to land dead on control FS (which was in the wrong place). Steeply down to the lake, then the awful tarmac down to the A5. Ate almost all I had on the long climb up Nant yr Ogof - the rain had eased slightly at this point and I felt OK after the food (wet liquorice is not ideal though!). Crested the Glyder ridge bang on Llyn Caseg Fraith. Given the importance of locating the next checkpoint, I got the map out and took proper bearings across the plateau. Definitely worth taking the extra time here! Virtually bumped into the marshall, so thick was the mist, then had a reasonably quick descent of the Miner's track, far more comfortable than last year (although my finishing time this year was nearly 15 mins down on 2008). Passed two runners on this descent, and - although I didn't know it - was 3rd or 4th at Pen y Pass after the lakeside bog. Lost 3 or 4 places immediately as others caught me on the lower Pyg track. But the race was in the bag, and I just tried to maintain reasonable pace - running where it levels off - up to a very windy Carnedd Ugain and Snowdon. A rather hostile summit, so I just ran down to Clogwyn, put on my fleece, and trotted down to Halfway House for a cup of tea and some chocolate. Another jog down to Electric Mountain (making the day a 27.5 mile ultra?!), where I met K,M,E. Only realised that things had gone wrong lower down the field (airlifts etc) when I watched the news later that evening. Over 50 in the fell runners A class retired (many presumably forced to stop at Ogwen), with similar proportions retiring in the other 6 (?) classes.
Thursday, June 04, 2009
Trevor climbs
Crag: Trevor Quarry
Routes: The Great Escape (f6a+:led), If I had (VS4b:sec), Hot Dog (f4:sec), All Fudd Up (f6a:led), Fudd Off (f6b:led)
A very brief and not entirely satisfactory evening trip. I began with a lead of one of the gaps on Compact Wall. The great escape goes easily enough to the final bolt, where I went left instead of right, treading very briefly on the bolt - annoying - before going back to complete the relatively straitforward sequence. Dale then led a VS, which I seconded along with Hot Dog. I then salvaged some pride with clean, very quick onsight leads of All Fudd Up (f6a) and Fudd Off (f6b). The latter my first lead at this grade for many years. Good climbing on small positive holds, good rough rock.
Routes: The Great Escape (f6a+:led), If I had (VS4b:sec), Hot Dog (f4:sec), All Fudd Up (f6a:led), Fudd Off (f6b:led)
A very brief and not entirely satisfactory evening trip. I began with a lead of one of the gaps on Compact Wall. The great escape goes easily enough to the final bolt, where I went left instead of right, treading very briefly on the bolt - annoying - before going back to complete the relatively straitforward sequence. Dale then led a VS, which I seconded along with Hot Dog. I then salvaged some pride with clean, very quick onsight leads of All Fudd Up (f6a) and Fudd Off (f6b). The latter my first lead at this grade for many years. Good climbing on small positive holds, good rough rock.
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Fenlli run
Excellent evening running up Foel Fenlli twice, via a version of the Druid race route from Llanferres via Penbarras. A remarkably green, crystal clear landscape with far-reaching views to Snowdonia and Berwyn gave Neil and I several excuses to rest.
Monday, June 01, 2009
Lliwedd mountaineering, slate cragging
Peak/Crag: Lliwedd (2946ft/898m)
Routes: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D: led p.1,3,5,7)
Crag: Dali's Hole, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mon Amie (f5b:led), Launching Pad (E1 5b:led), My Wife's an alien (f5:led), Captain Slog (f4c:sec)
An unusual, possibly unique, combination of routes and climbing styles. From route of the year (1904) to something a little more modern! Alwyn had also done Ras y Gader on Saturday so we were rather tired for the lengthy walk-in to Lliwedd. But the weather was truly stunning: amazing clarity, hot sunshine and not a breath of wind. Furthermore, we were early enough to find Lliwedd - notoriously hostile and north-facing - in the most benign conditions imaginable. So perhaps we should have been more ambitious. However, we wanted a mountaineering route so slogged up to Slanting Buttress on the right of the cliff. It's a great route despite its simplicity (only 3 or 4 'moves' in its entire 700ft+ length). Hugely enjoyable, surprisingly continuous, with an Alpine feel: perhaps PD+ would be a more appropriate grade. I led a very easy first pitch up the quartz slab, with Alwyn running another out to below the recess. I then led a merged pitch up to the recess, then good climbing up big flakes left to blocks - followed by the tricky gangway, with crack, which leads to another good ledge. Alwyn then led the very short 9m groove, with me getting the famously photogenic pitch up the a'cheval ridge. This was tremendous fun, still sun-drenched, up big holds to a horizontal knife-edge. Alwyn led the exposed but very easy traverse right to a stance below the big groove, which I then led. Quite polished climbing up to a pinnacle. Awkward pull to stand on top, then jugs lead right to a superb stance - cooled by a gentle breeze, looking out over Crib Goch and Llyn Llydaw, the crag below. An easy finishing pitch gains the top a little way below the summit - where we had lunch. The climbing was quick and efficient, taking just under two hours, so we descended to the car (a fair walk from the top of Lliwedd!) and headed off to the slate. I warmed up leading Mon Amie (f5b), a nice climb done before. Then had a bash at Launching Pad (E1 5b). This was splendid, although something of a soft-touch. Good climbing up the very well protected crack leads to excellent traverse moves on little edges left to the first bolt. Interesting climbing, fairly easy, gains the second bolt, before an enjoyable finish up a slanting crack leads to little jugs and the top. A pleasing lead. Finished with two scrappy newly bolted routes. A really good day: ultra-varied!
Routes: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D: led p.1,3,5,7)
Crag: Dali's Hole, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mon Amie (f5b:led), Launching Pad (E1 5b:led), My Wife's an alien (f5:led), Captain Slog (f4c:sec)
An unusual, possibly unique, combination of routes and climbing styles. From route of the year (1904) to something a little more modern! Alwyn had also done Ras y Gader on Saturday so we were rather tired for the lengthy walk-in to Lliwedd. But the weather was truly stunning: amazing clarity, hot sunshine and not a breath of wind. Furthermore, we were early enough to find Lliwedd - notoriously hostile and north-facing - in the most benign conditions imaginable. So perhaps we should have been more ambitious. However, we wanted a mountaineering route so slogged up to Slanting Buttress on the right of the cliff. It's a great route despite its simplicity (only 3 or 4 'moves' in its entire 700ft+ length). Hugely enjoyable, surprisingly continuous, with an Alpine feel: perhaps PD+ would be a more appropriate grade. I led a very easy first pitch up the quartz slab, with Alwyn running another out to below the recess. I then led a merged pitch up to the recess, then good climbing up big flakes left to blocks - followed by the tricky gangway, with crack, which leads to another good ledge. Alwyn then led the very short 9m groove, with me getting the famously photogenic pitch up the a'cheval ridge. This was tremendous fun, still sun-drenched, up big holds to a horizontal knife-edge. Alwyn led the exposed but very easy traverse right to a stance below the big groove, which I then led. Quite polished climbing up to a pinnacle. Awkward pull to stand on top, then jugs lead right to a superb stance - cooled by a gentle breeze, looking out over Crib Goch and Llyn Llydaw, the crag below. An easy finishing pitch gains the top a little way below the summit - where we had lunch. The climbing was quick and efficient, taking just under two hours, so we descended to the car (a fair walk from the top of Lliwedd!) and headed off to the slate. I warmed up leading Mon Amie (f5b), a nice climb done before. Then had a bash at Launching Pad (E1 5b). This was splendid, although something of a soft-touch. Good climbing up the very well protected crack leads to excellent traverse moves on little edges left to the first bolt. Interesting climbing, fairly easy, gains the second bolt, before an enjoyable finish up a slanting crack leads to little jugs and the top. A pleasing lead. Finished with two scrappy newly bolted routes. A really good day: ultra-varied!
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