Clogwyn Cyrau climbs, and Famau run

Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:led), Jingling Wall (HS 4b,4b: led p.2), Long Climb Direct (S:led p.1,2 merged), Hen Bryd (S:sec), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Morus (VD:sol), Eliminate Start (VS 5a:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:led)
My sole previous visit to this crag was probably 16 years ago, when we scratched around on some short routes in pouring rain. This was a highly enjoyable day on an ultra-relaxing low key crag, just picking off some of the minor classics. Conwy Corner and Jingling Wall are easily the best lines, and I began with a lead of the former on Conwy Buttress: a very obvious right-angled corner, an irresistable line. It was a lovely pitch with nice incut jugs, easy bridging, and good protection. A bit of drizzle on this, but the rain fortunately held off. A long descent from the corner landed us next to Small Buttress, where we nipped up The Groove and Sion in double-quick time. We then moved over to Main Cliff for the splendid Jingling Wall. Alwyn led the first pitch - a steepish groove on good holds leads to a move right to gain another sloping groove then a nice slab back left to a belay. I then led the second: a steep but very enjoyable groove in a great position above Betws. Delightful ambience at the belay - this line is fairly obvious from the town, and the views down (and over to Siabod and the Carneddau) are excellent. Jingling Wall was so much fun we were eager for more, and I led Long Climb Direct straight after lunch. Another surprisingly good route. Up 'steps' to a ledge, then more steeply up an open groove to a round spike and steeper climbing on good holds to the belay ledge. It seemed obvious to merge the pitches, so I threaded the oak then continued up the steeper but juggy second pitch up a crack. Again, wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable climbing. The sun started to peep out as I seconded Alwyn up Hen Bryd. Similar to the other two, but not quite as distinguished. Nice moves round a little overhang to a ledge and another juggy finish. We rounded the day off with more easy routes on Small Buttress. I may well have done some of these on my previous visit. Sian, Siencyn and Morus were polished off in a few minutes (probably used by outdoor centres, rather polished but ideal for children). Finished with the 5a Eliminate Start to Direct Route, then The Arete - a great way to end, as this route is clearly visible from Betws. A tricky undercut start leads to easy climbing up a slender arete. Down well before 3pm, plenty of time for some food before the hour-long drive to Cadole where I did the full run up and down Moel Famau from the pub in 1:14. A couple of pints were much appreciated at the end of a long day.