Stanage climbs

Crag: Stanage, Peak
Routes: Inaccessible Slab (S 4c:sol), Inaccessible Crack Direct (VS 4c:sec), Cave Buttress (S 4b:led), Lost Soul (S:sol), Norse Corner Climb (HS 4c:sec), Limbo (S:sol), Tango Buttress (HS 5a:led), Youth (VD:sol), Warm Afternoon (VD:sol), Ice Cream Flakes (VD:sol), Side Plate (S 4b:sol), Duo Crack Climb (VD:sol), Staircase Rib (D:sol), Birthday Buttress (VS 4b:led), Feathered Friends (VS 4b:sec), Kelly's Crack (VD:downclimbed), Kelly's Eye (HS 4b:led), Bright Eyed (VS 4b:sol), Emily May (S:sol), Clegg (HVD:sol), Midge (D:sol)
Rather tired after a long day yesterday, but managed to rouse myself for this early morning (7.15am!) trip to Stanage. Brief visits notwithstanding, this was my first full day on grit since 1997. Had no particular routes in mind, given the time elapsed since my last visit. Perhaps I should have been more focused on the classics, but it was far too crowded for my tastes and I decided instead to take the opportunity to increase the climbing mileage and bag a good few routes while re-acquainting myself with grit, which takes time. After a brief microroute, I seconded Dale up the powerful line of Inaccessible Crack. I'd done the normal indirect version of this before with Tim, and even dredged up a vague memory of the final section - an enjoyable blast up a steep crack. I led Cave Buttress to ease myself back. After an awkward start, an easy slab leads to a fine traverse right over a rounded arete to a rather rounded finish via a couple of breaks. Enjoyable. Quickly nipped solo up Lost Soul, eager for as much action as possible, finishing up Tango Crack. Then followed Dale up Norse Corner, with its very awkward start up a steep wall via a big pocket and an undercut to moves right up a slabby corner, then an easy layback to finish. After another rapid solo of Limbo, I led Tango Buttress on a single 9mm. Splendid fun, perhaps the route of the day. A delicate, semi-technical 5a start leads to a beautiful grit slab. Moves on little edges to a flake on the right, then more delicate climbing leads to a juggy finish. We moved away from crowded High Neb after lunch, to the unsung buttresses further left. A bit of a feeding frenzy followed, with fun solo trips up the enjoyable Youth (a nice crack), followed by three more similar but less defined routes (although Side Plate was a nice trip up a slabby arete). Another move left to another quiet buttress, and the fine Duo Cracks - nipped up in less than a minute, and the juggy, novel romp up the detached Staircase Rib. Dale suggested moving to Birthday Buttress, and I led the eponymous route. A poor decision. I should have chosen more prudently. Steep moves up to an obvious hand traverse line, with little for the feet, led to an arete right. An awkward mantel gained the big ledge and end of all difficulties. An unexpectedly strenuous and not very good route, which took far too much effort given my tiredness after yesterday. We moved to Crow Chin, back among the crowds. Seconded Dale up the slab of Feathered Friends, then downclimbed Kelly's Crack with its famous wobbly chockstone. Sudden tiredness kicked in as I led Kelly's Eye, starting too far left before moving back to the big flake and delicate finish. Bright Eyed and Emily May were nice short solos on lovely rough rock, whilst Clegg and Midge were silly additions much further right - involving an unwelcome longish walk - just to push the route tally above 20! Shame I wasn't a bit fresher and more focused for this, but a good day nonetheless. Nice weather too, and good views gave me the satisfaction of reflecting on the Edale Skyline fell race I did in late March: because the entire race route is visible when one belays above the edge.