Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan/Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Scratch (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadrach (VS 4c,4b,4c:led p.2), Grim Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
First time on rock since September and, as such, quite good going - particularly as it was raining heavily when I left home. To knock off three classic routes in a February afternoon was satisfying: an unexpectedly good day and a real bonus (particularly given that I actually wanted to climb snow gullies on Clogwyn y Garnedd)! We started on Pant Ifan, where I led up the scrappy and wet initial slabs of Scratch to a short crack before a delightful slabby traverse to the belay. Inevitably, technique/footwork was rusty after this cold winter as I followed Vic up the layback crack in light drizzle, before another traverse across the slabs gains an easy jamming crack to finish. Good varied route. After a snack at the car, we moved across to Bwlch y Moch and did The Brothers start to Shadrach: a polished off-width. I then led an easy but lovely second pitch, Shadrach proper, up the slab on sharp holds (in warm sunshine!) before following Vic up the short crux step off the big flake to a nice direct finish. Grim Wall was then irresistable. I'm pretty sure I've done this before - I definitely remembered the first pitch, a romp across a series of juggy flakes. The top pitch is superb, absorbing, quite intricate and unexpected, easily the best climbing of the day. A little mantel gains good holds and a traverse left to a groove. Then splendid steep moves on big flakey holds straight up the rib. A classic Tremadog day, with all of Snowdonia in drizzly/snowy clag except this micro-climatic coastal strip.