Race: Deeside 4m+ (border league race 6)
Time/Position: 24:28 (20th from 246)
The timing of this race, the climax of the season, was hardly ideal: three days after the marathon. Worse still, I'd already missed a race earlier in the season and therefore had to put in a decent performance if I was to stay in the top 10. Given all this, I was genuinely surprised to feel fine throughout. In fact, I felt a lot more comfortable than I usually do in the league. Presumably, this was a result of deliberately holding back in London: I'd felt none of the usual soreness after the marathon. It was a flat but twisty course around Deeside on a warm evening, the same route as 2008, obviously fast-paced from the start. I began conservatively and was expecting to tire, but gradually gained places to almost match my best ever Borders finish. I actually moved up a place to finish 9th senior male overall (124pts), one month before I move into the Vets.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Sunday, April 25, 2010
London Marathon
Race: London Marathon
Time: 3:10:48 (1941/36000)
Had no real aspirations for my fourth London marathon. I knew I hadn't trained properly for a pb, so decided to hold back, enjoy it, and use it as a building block for an all-out pb attempt in Chester next month. This is exactly what I did in Paris two years ago (prior to sub-3 at Edinburgh), and it makes for a hugely enjoyable experience. I had a whale of a time here: my 5k splits were virtually identical throughout, which was pleasing. I was able to relax and enjoy the fantastic atmosphere, which seemed better than ever this year, and was particularly memorable around Greenwich, Canary Wharf (missed the family here though!) and the last few miles. Felt very comfortable throughout, although I did have to visit the toilet at mile 10, which lost me 90 seconds! Recovered quickly after the race, and was able to do a 10k bike ride early next morning, trying to loosen the legs before Wednesday's inconveniently-timed Border League finale.
Time: 3:10:48 (1941/36000)
Had no real aspirations for my fourth London marathon. I knew I hadn't trained properly for a pb, so decided to hold back, enjoy it, and use it as a building block for an all-out pb attempt in Chester next month. This is exactly what I did in Paris two years ago (prior to sub-3 at Edinburgh), and it makes for a hugely enjoyable experience. I had a whale of a time here: my 5k splits were virtually identical throughout, which was pleasing. I was able to relax and enjoy the fantastic atmosphere, which seemed better than ever this year, and was particularly memorable around Greenwich, Canary Wharf (missed the family here though!) and the last few miles. Felt very comfortable throughout, although I did have to visit the toilet at mile 10, which lost me 90 seconds! Recovered quickly after the race, and was able to do a 10k bike ride early next morning, trying to loosen the legs before Wednesday's inconveniently-timed Border League finale.
Monday, April 19, 2010
Pot Hole workout
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Right Wall (E2 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Ego (E3 5c:TR), Vetta (E1 5a:TR), Major (HVS 5a:TR)
A valuable evening training session on some old favourites at Pot Hole, in preparation for our forthcoming Provencal cragging trip. All were enjoyable and straightforward with rope above. These bigger routes give the best climbing at Pot Hole, although some are very polished now. The Dog is still fun, but Canine Meander gives better climbing in my view, although eliminate in nature, on sharp crystals and crimpy pockets. Right Wall and Ceba went well, even tried to avoid the crack on Right Wall, while Ego's one very hard move towards the top remains thought-provoking. Vetta and Major are now both polished and awkward. Nice evening sunshine as we finished.
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Right Wall (E2 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Ego (E3 5c:TR), Vetta (E1 5a:TR), Major (HVS 5a:TR)
A valuable evening training session on some old favourites at Pot Hole, in preparation for our forthcoming Provencal cragging trip. All were enjoyable and straightforward with rope above. These bigger routes give the best climbing at Pot Hole, although some are very polished now. The Dog is still fun, but Canine Meander gives better climbing in my view, although eliminate in nature, on sharp crystals and crimpy pockets. Right Wall and Ceba went well, even tried to avoid the crack on Right Wall, while Ego's one very hard move towards the top remains thought-provoking. Vetta and Major are now both polished and awkward. Nice evening sunshine as we finished.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Craig Cywarch
Crag: Tap y Graig, Craig Cywarch
Routes: Will-o'-the-Wisp (VD:led p.2), Bluebell Babylon (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Mud Slide Slim (VS 4c:sec)
This venue has been a gap in my education for a long time. Although I had visited the valley for a hillwalk a few years ago, I'd never climbed on Cywarch. Vic had never been either, and we both found it very rewarding from a mountaineering perspective. It was a beautiful day, and the head of the valley is wonderfully isolated: a tranquil place to climb, very much my cup of tea. The walk-in is a delight, we treated it as training and got to the crag in less than 25 mins. We then romped the classic VDiff in less than an hour, doing it in two pitches rather than the usual six. Vic merged the scrambly first section, to the 'tea ledges', with the long traverse (a pleasant sun-drenched saunter in a nice position). I then led the arete which holds so much promise in the first few metres - huge holds and a fine position - but then peters out almost immediately. I continued past the tree to a finish over blocks and slabs. A quick descent down Little Gully, nice rock scenery, and back across for the classic VS of the crag, Bluebell Babylon. I merged the first two pitches to give a disjointed, slightly unusual pitch - up the scrambly start of WW to a steep crux wall. This is juggy and very short but out of character with the rest of the route. After pulling over this, a more delicate slab gains the belay in a wonderful position looking right down the valley. A red kite circled below, and a peregrine flew higher up. The sky was deep blue, no vapour trails and no aircraft noise (thanks to the Icelandic volcano). And no other climbers: just a great place to be. Vic merged the last two pitches, with some enjoyable climbing up a steepish wall on very good holds leading to a vegetated final tower. A nice route, varied, but low in the grade with no technical difficulty. No evidence of recent ascents, and no polish: instead you get interesting route-finding, lichen, heather, and a refreshing pioneering flavour. Another descent of Little Gully brought us to the foot of the other good VS: Mud Slide Slim. Another pleasant route, up a ramp to an interesting traverse below an overhang: good rock, good climbing, although a tad awkward for the second. This gains an easy blunt arete which leads up dirty rock to an overlap. Huge holds overcome this, before another steep crack above the WW belay gains the big tree. Had to excavate some of the holds on this, not something you would expect on most crags further north. It would have been nice to do another route, but the length of the drive meant we had to call it a day. Lovely ambience in the valley as we left the crags.
Routes: Will-o'-the-Wisp (VD:led p.2), Bluebell Babylon (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Mud Slide Slim (VS 4c:sec)
This venue has been a gap in my education for a long time. Although I had visited the valley for a hillwalk a few years ago, I'd never climbed on Cywarch. Vic had never been either, and we both found it very rewarding from a mountaineering perspective. It was a beautiful day, and the head of the valley is wonderfully isolated: a tranquil place to climb, very much my cup of tea. The walk-in is a delight, we treated it as training and got to the crag in less than 25 mins. We then romped the classic VDiff in less than an hour, doing it in two pitches rather than the usual six. Vic merged the scrambly first section, to the 'tea ledges', with the long traverse (a pleasant sun-drenched saunter in a nice position). I then led the arete which holds so much promise in the first few metres - huge holds and a fine position - but then peters out almost immediately. I continued past the tree to a finish over blocks and slabs. A quick descent down Little Gully, nice rock scenery, and back across for the classic VS of the crag, Bluebell Babylon. I merged the first two pitches to give a disjointed, slightly unusual pitch - up the scrambly start of WW to a steep crux wall. This is juggy and very short but out of character with the rest of the route. After pulling over this, a more delicate slab gains the belay in a wonderful position looking right down the valley. A red kite circled below, and a peregrine flew higher up. The sky was deep blue, no vapour trails and no aircraft noise (thanks to the Icelandic volcano). And no other climbers: just a great place to be. Vic merged the last two pitches, with some enjoyable climbing up a steepish wall on very good holds leading to a vegetated final tower. A nice route, varied, but low in the grade with no technical difficulty. No evidence of recent ascents, and no polish: instead you get interesting route-finding, lichen, heather, and a refreshing pioneering flavour. Another descent of Little Gully brought us to the foot of the other good VS: Mud Slide Slim. Another pleasant route, up a ramp to an interesting traverse below an overhang: good rock, good climbing, although a tad awkward for the second. This gains an easy blunt arete which leads up dirty rock to an overlap. Huge holds overcome this, before another steep crack above the WW belay gains the big tree. Had to excavate some of the holds on this, not something you would expect on most crags further north. It would have been nice to do another route, but the length of the drive meant we had to call it a day. Lovely ambience in the valley as we left the crags.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Clwydian runs
Felt exhausted on Tuesday during my last longish run before the marathon: 15 miles from HK up Waun y Llyn and back via the 10k road extension. But recovered with shorter sessions during the week and felt quite good for the regular Famau run in wonderful spring sunshine this evening.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Prestatyn border league
Race: Prestatyn 5.1m (border league race 6)
Time/Position: 30:08 (26th from 225)
My legs felt tired during the warm-up, and stayed that way throughout the race. I extended the Famau run to 12m on Friday evening in delightful balmy conditions and hadn't really had a chance to rest since then. Nice weather, with an easterly wind at our backs for the sprint along the seafront. The positions were more or less established after the first mile, although I picked up one or two places as we followed the loop inland then back round Splash Point. The return leg, into a surprisingly strong wind, was tough. I found myself alone and exposed to the wind, so worked really hard to catch two runners in front. This takes it out of you, although I did manage to pass one more runner before the end. A stronger field than in recent races, so I was a few places down again, although by default I've moved up to 10th senior male.
Time/Position: 30:08 (26th from 225)
My legs felt tired during the warm-up, and stayed that way throughout the race. I extended the Famau run to 12m on Friday evening in delightful balmy conditions and hadn't really had a chance to rest since then. Nice weather, with an easterly wind at our backs for the sprint along the seafront. The positions were more or less established after the first mile, although I picked up one or two places as we followed the loop inland then back round Splash Point. The return leg, into a surprisingly strong wind, was tough. I found myself alone and exposed to the wind, so worked really hard to catch two runners in front. This takes it out of you, although I did manage to pass one more runner before the end. A stronger field than in recent races, so I was a few places down again, although by default I've moved up to 10th senior male.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Castell Helen revisited
Crag: Castell Helen, Gogarth
Routes: Poseidon/Blanco (HVS 4c,5a:sec), Lighthouse Arete (VS 4a:led p.3), Pel (VS 4c:sec), Rap (VS 4c,4b:led p.2)
The most benign conditions imaginable for my second visit to this special place. I had unfinished business here from the previous trip last May, which was curtailed after one route by rain, wind and heavy seas. The weather was glorious today, as we enjoyed the atmospheric descent to the base of the crag: blue skies, no wind, warm rock, and a shimmering calm sea. Razorbills, guillemots and chough wheeled around as Vic led the easy first pitch of Poseidon/Blanco up a vague corner, then arete, above the belay niche. This led to a small stance below the overhanging corner. Big holds up this led to a move right in a stunning position to gain more steep, tricky climbing up a rather exposed wall to gain Lighthouse Arete. I led the easy final pitch of the arete to the top and a breather. We were then able to enjoy the rare treat of descending right down to the wave-cut platform below the crag. Tranquil scenes, low tide and a silvery sea, waves gently lapping the platform, seals popping up occasionally. Pel was splendid: probably the easiest but also best of the day. Starting from the base gave 20ft of extra climbing, up easy grooves via the belay niche to a tricky move right to gain a steeper corner/groove. This gave nice bridging on superb holds, excellent bleached-white rock, to the platform. The second pitch of Pel isn't worthwhile so we abbed down to the Rap ledge and Vic led the first pitch. Again, great stuff: similar to Pel, although steeper and more open. Big holds lead to a steep finish up the obvious corner with s surprisingly tricky crux near the top. I then led the second pitch up a little wall traversing left to a ledge and thread, then easily up to the big break. Above this, a nice shallow groove gave some pleasant moves to blocks and an easy finish.
Routes: Poseidon/Blanco (HVS 4c,5a:sec), Lighthouse Arete (VS 4a:led p.3), Pel (VS 4c:sec), Rap (VS 4c,4b:led p.2)
The most benign conditions imaginable for my second visit to this special place. I had unfinished business here from the previous trip last May, which was curtailed after one route by rain, wind and heavy seas. The weather was glorious today, as we enjoyed the atmospheric descent to the base of the crag: blue skies, no wind, warm rock, and a shimmering calm sea. Razorbills, guillemots and chough wheeled around as Vic led the easy first pitch of Poseidon/Blanco up a vague corner, then arete, above the belay niche. This led to a small stance below the overhanging corner. Big holds up this led to a move right in a stunning position to gain more steep, tricky climbing up a rather exposed wall to gain Lighthouse Arete. I led the easy final pitch of the arete to the top and a breather. We were then able to enjoy the rare treat of descending right down to the wave-cut platform below the crag. Tranquil scenes, low tide and a silvery sea, waves gently lapping the platform, seals popping up occasionally. Pel was splendid: probably the easiest but also best of the day. Starting from the base gave 20ft of extra climbing, up easy grooves via the belay niche to a tricky move right to gain a steeper corner/groove. This gave nice bridging on superb holds, excellent bleached-white rock, to the platform. The second pitch of Pel isn't worthwhile so we abbed down to the Rap ledge and Vic led the first pitch. Again, great stuff: similar to Pel, although steeper and more open. Big holds lead to a steep finish up the obvious corner with s surprisingly tricky crux near the top. I then led the second pitch up a little wall traversing left to a ledge and thread, then easily up to the big break. Above this, a nice shallow groove gave some pleasant moves to blocks and an easy finish.
Thursday, April 08, 2010
Gentle Moelwyn climbing
Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen
Routes: Bent (S: led p.1,2), Slick (VD: led p.3,4), Chic (VD: led p.1,2,3)
Spring conditions at last, accompanied by non-climbing Rich, so some relaxed scrambles in the Moelwyns seemed in order. Lots of instructors had the same idea, and Bent was about the only free route! This is a delightful gentle slab, warmed by the sun, and I merged two pitches to give a lovely long romp up to a tree belay. We were again faced with a traffic jam, so I led straight up the left side of the Slick flake: followed by another delightful easy slab. Finished up the final steeper crack pitch of Slick (I remembered soloing Slick in the distant past, nice route). After lunch, ambled up the initial rib of Chic, then led the nice second pitch up a steep crack to a juggy traverse followed by a slab. A queue at the stance, but in the warm sunshine it hardly mattered. The final pitch is a wide r-leaning crack followed by yet more gentle slabby climbing to the top. We could have continued indefinitely in this vein, but Rich fancied a pint so we retired to Betws.
Routes: Bent (S: led p.1,2), Slick (VD: led p.3,4), Chic (VD: led p.1,2,3)
Spring conditions at last, accompanied by non-climbing Rich, so some relaxed scrambles in the Moelwyns seemed in order. Lots of instructors had the same idea, and Bent was about the only free route! This is a delightful gentle slab, warmed by the sun, and I merged two pitches to give a lovely long romp up to a tree belay. We were again faced with a traffic jam, so I led straight up the left side of the Slick flake: followed by another delightful easy slab. Finished up the final steeper crack pitch of Slick (I remembered soloing Slick in the distant past, nice route). After lunch, ambled up the initial rib of Chic, then led the nice second pitch up a steep crack to a juggy traverse followed by a slab. A queue at the stance, but in the warm sunshine it hardly mattered. The final pitch is a wide r-leaning crack followed by yet more gentle slabby climbing to the top. We could have continued indefinitely in this vein, but Rich fancied a pint so we retired to Betws.
Monday, April 05, 2010
Long run, Eglwyseg bouldering
A family trip to the Graffiti Walls above Llangollen. Not technical enough to be real bouldering, more like miniature routes at 4b-5b. Good fun, especially when combined with picnic and walk up Dinas Bran. Did all of the problems apart from one, including The Flake and Left Crack, all on excellent rough sandstone. Nice way to warm down after a long run yesterday, a necessary addition before the forthcoming marathons and other longer events. Went reasonably well, from HK to Handbridge and down the half marathon route to Pulford, then Rossett and a circuitous route home via LK. Close to 20m, so at least I've got four long ones in. Not ideal, but it will have to do.
Friday, April 02, 2010
Salford 10k
Race: Salford 10k
Time/Position: 35:25 (44th from 569)
Having deliberately focused on reducing my 10k pb this year, it was pleasing to take such a big chunk off it before switching to the hills for summer. I'd expected to dip under 36m for the first time on this notoriously fast, flat course, but didn't expect to take 37 secs off my Twin Piers time. Bit of a scrum at the start, but managed to negotiate it and started off faster than usual. Kept pushing for both laps (went through 5k in 17:42, an exact split), and was able to get in small groups to counteract a stiff breeze. A highly competitive and well organised race, with a very strong field drawn from a big geographical area. Did the full run up Moel Famau to warm down in the evening: snow, slush and sunshine. Felt OK in the circumstances, and it was a nice contrast with the less-than-scenic 10k!
Time/Position: 35:25 (44th from 569)
Having deliberately focused on reducing my 10k pb this year, it was pleasing to take such a big chunk off it before switching to the hills for summer. I'd expected to dip under 36m for the first time on this notoriously fast, flat course, but didn't expect to take 37 secs off my Twin Piers time. Bit of a scrum at the start, but managed to negotiate it and started off faster than usual. Kept pushing for both laps (went through 5k in 17:42, an exact split), and was able to get in small groups to counteract a stiff breeze. A highly competitive and well organised race, with a very strong field drawn from a big geographical area. Did the full run up Moel Famau to warm down in the evening: snow, slush and sunshine. Felt OK in the circumstances, and it was a nice contrast with the less-than-scenic 10k!
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