Castell Helen revisited

Crag: Castell Helen, Gogarth
Routes: Poseidon/Blanco (HVS 4c,5a:sec), Lighthouse Arete (VS 4a:led p.3), Pel (VS 4c:sec), Rap (VS 4c,4b:led p.2)
The most benign conditions imaginable for my second visit to this special place. I had unfinished business here from the previous trip last May, which was curtailed after one route by rain, wind and heavy seas. The weather was glorious today, as we enjoyed the atmospheric descent to the base of the crag: blue skies, no wind, warm rock, and a shimmering calm sea. Razorbills, guillemots and chough wheeled around as Vic led the easy first pitch of Poseidon/Blanco up a vague corner, then arete, above the belay niche. This led to a small stance below the overhanging corner. Big holds up this led to a move right in a stunning position to gain more steep, tricky climbing up a rather exposed wall to gain Lighthouse Arete. I led the easy final pitch of the arete to the top and a breather. We were then able to enjoy the rare treat of descending right down to the wave-cut platform below the crag. Tranquil scenes, low tide and a silvery sea, waves gently lapping the platform, seals popping up occasionally. Pel was splendid: probably the easiest but also best of the day. Starting from the base gave 20ft of extra climbing, up easy grooves via the belay niche to a tricky move right to gain a steeper corner/groove. This gave nice bridging on superb holds, excellent bleached-white rock, to the platform. The second pitch of Pel isn't worthwhile so we abbed down to the Rap ledge and Vic led the first pitch. Again, great stuff: similar to Pel, although steeper and more open. Big holds lead to a steep finish up the obvious corner with s surprisingly tricky crux near the top. I then led the second pitch up a little wall traversing left to a ledge and thread, then easily up to the big break. Above this, a nice shallow groove gave some pleasant moves to blocks and an easy finish.