Thursday, April 08, 2010

Gentle Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen
Routes: Bent (S: led p.1,2), Slick (VD: led p.3,4), Chic (VD: led p.1,2,3)
Spring conditions at last, accompanied by non-climbing Rich, so some relaxed scrambles in the Moelwyns seemed in order. Lots of instructors had the same idea, and Bent was about the only free route! This is a delightful gentle slab, warmed by the sun, and I merged two pitches to give a lovely long romp up to a tree belay. We were again faced with a traffic jam, so I led straight up the left side of the Slick flake: followed by another delightful easy slab. Finished up the final steeper crack pitch of Slick (I remembered soloing Slick in the distant past, nice route). After lunch, ambled up the initial rib of Chic, then led the nice second pitch up a steep crack to a juggy traverse followed by a slab. A queue at the stance, but in the warm sunshine it hardly mattered. The final pitch is a wide r-leaning crack followed by yet more gentle slabby climbing to the top. We could have continued indefinitely in this vein, but Rich fancied a pint so we retired to Betws.

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