Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: Solstice (HVS 5a:led), Septuagenarian (f5+/6a:led), Fool's Gold (E1 5c:sec), Tomb Raider (f6a,f3,f6a:led p.1,3), Horse Latitudes (f6a+:led), The Horsin' Around Finish (f6a+:led), Bela Lugosi is Dead (E1 5b:sec)
Heavy rain in the night, the first for weeks, meant we had to change our plans for the day. I'd planned to head into the hills, but quick-drying slate was the obvious safe option. Began, predictably enough, with a lead of Solstice, which takes the obvious line of hollow flakes left of Equinox (which I led many years ago). A very polished and rather awkward move, with little for the feet, gains a good hold before big flakes lead out right to an easy finish. We spied a line of new bolts on the descent. It looked quite a nice line, so I nipped up it. A short slab leads to good moves up and over a bulge before a traverse right leads to a good finish up a delicate slab. This is apparently given f6a but is 5+ at most. Nice climbing though, when compared to some of the scrappy bolted lines hereabouts. Because it was quiet we also nipped up Fool's Gold, a slate classic with one hard 5c move to gain the upper crack. The rest is quite straightforward but excellent throughout. After lunch, we enjoyed the novelty of a multi-pitch slate route in Never Never Land. Tomb Raider goes up a line of bolts on a short slab to a series of mantelshelves, which get progressively easier. Alwyn ambled right on the easy second pitch, before I led a nice final pitch around a small, fun overhang and up the obvious corner. Enjoyable, but again overgraded: 5+ at most. Then came a long but fascinating walk down through the quarries - new territory for me - looking for Horse Latitudes. This recently retro-bolted line used to weigh in at E3 5c but is now a superb 'easy' sports climb, in my view one of the best of its kind in Wales. It takes a vein of dolerite running up the arete on the left of a 30m high slab. Superb delicate climbing, quite technical and sustained but never particularly hard, leads up to a ledge. I then took the obvious Horsin' Around finish, which moves right round the upper arete to regain the dolerite. Up this steeply on small holds to the top. A great pitch with great moves, long enough to satisfy, as is the established classic Bela Lugosi to its right. Lovely climbing up the obvious slim, positive crack to a wider crack and a polished finale. Finished with a run through the quarries to Nant Peris, via the remarkable Twll Mawr, one of the wonders of Wales.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Llanddulas cave climbs
Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Not Runout Groove (f5+:led), Clipterfyn (f5+:sec), Udder Head (f6a:led), India-Rubber Head (f6a:sec), Rosalind Franklin's Picture (f5:sec), Guano on Sight (f6a+:sec)
After a short break for lunch after the race, I headed west immediately to sample the new bolted crag above Llanddulas. Unsurprisingly, I was rather tired and not on the best of form, so my initial lead up Runout Groove seemed awkward. Rather rounded holds and surprisingly steep climbing: a mantel leads to easier climbing to the upper groove. Dale's lead, Clipterfyn, was similarly awkward and also rather dirty. Fortunately, Udder Head was far better. Good positive climbing up a wall to a left-leaning vague groove which steepens to give a fine finish. Its companion route to the left was also good, and even juggier. It moves right on steeper ground to join Udder Head for the final steep mantel. We then moved round to the main cave for the truly bizarre Rosalind Franklin's Picture, which climbs a gully (actually inside the cave, so pretty gloomy) then bridges out on green holds to gain an upper chamber with a sea view. Guano on Sight was probably the most unsuitable route to finish on given my fatigue: a slightly overhanging boss of tufa climbed mainly on huge jugs. Rather pumpy, steep and strenuous, although very good. I needed a couple of rests and will definitely come back to do it when I haven't done a 6-peak fell race in the morning!
Routes: Not Runout Groove (f5+:led), Clipterfyn (f5+:sec), Udder Head (f6a:led), India-Rubber Head (f6a:sec), Rosalind Franklin's Picture (f5:sec), Guano on Sight (f6a+:sec)
After a short break for lunch after the race, I headed west immediately to sample the new bolted crag above Llanddulas. Unsurprisingly, I was rather tired and not on the best of form, so my initial lead up Runout Groove seemed awkward. Rather rounded holds and surprisingly steep climbing: a mantel leads to easier climbing to the upper groove. Dale's lead, Clipterfyn, was similarly awkward and also rather dirty. Fortunately, Udder Head was far better. Good positive climbing up a wall to a left-leaning vague groove which steepens to give a fine finish. Its companion route to the left was also good, and even juggier. It moves right on steeper ground to join Udder Head for the final steep mantel. We then moved round to the main cave for the truly bizarre Rosalind Franklin's Picture, which climbs a gully (actually inside the cave, so pretty gloomy) then bridges out on green holds to gain an upper chamber with a sea view. Guano on Sight was probably the most unsuitable route to finish on given my fatigue: a slightly overhanging boss of tufa climbed mainly on huge jugs. Rather pumpy, steep and strenuous, although very good. I needed a couple of rests and will definitely come back to do it when I haven't done a 6-peak fell race in the morning!
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (9.5m/2400ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:24:46 (4th from 52 [1st v40])
A few seconds slower than the last time I did this race in 2008, which was disappointing. However, it was supposedly the hottest day of the year so far and certainly felt it for the final climbs back over Gamelin. I started out quite fast over the first four hills - Moel y Faen, Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and Morfydd. It was a small field, so by the time I climbed over Morfydd I was way behind Neil, Jez and the leader, and well in front of the rest of the field. A lovely cooling breeze helped the first part of the 'moorland' section west of Bwlch y Groes. This is lonely country at the best of times, so it was very peculiar to be out of sight of any other runners. Good though, and I kept a reasonable pace until the final climb, when the stifling heat became a factor. No breeze here, and it was hard to keep motivated in the circumstances! The Conquering Hero bridleway to the ridge was OK but the climbs back over Gamelin and Moel y Faen were very hot and therefore very draining - I lost a lot of time here as I slackened off, feeling very tired, after first confirming nobody was gaining ground behind. I finished 1st v40 again. It's been a good fortnight (or 12 days!), with three category wins and one narrow second, although it's probably been largely by default, with stronger runners not turning up.
Time/Position: 1:24:46 (4th from 52 [1st v40])
A few seconds slower than the last time I did this race in 2008, which was disappointing. However, it was supposedly the hottest day of the year so far and certainly felt it for the final climbs back over Gamelin. I started out quite fast over the first four hills - Moel y Faen, Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and Morfydd. It was a small field, so by the time I climbed over Morfydd I was way behind Neil, Jez and the leader, and well in front of the rest of the field. A lovely cooling breeze helped the first part of the 'moorland' section west of Bwlch y Groes. This is lonely country at the best of times, so it was very peculiar to be out of sight of any other runners. Good though, and I kept a reasonable pace until the final climb, when the stifling heat became a factor. No breeze here, and it was hard to keep motivated in the circumstances! The Conquering Hero bridleway to the ridge was OK but the climbs back over Gamelin and Moel y Faen were very hot and therefore very draining - I lost a lot of time here as I slackened off, feeling very tired, after first confirming nobody was gaining ground behind. I finished 1st v40 again. It's been a good fortnight (or 12 days!), with three category wins and one narrow second, although it's probably been largely by default, with stronger runners not turning up.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Hotfoot up Famau race
Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1200ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38:41 (4th from 65 [1st v40])
Cooler than expected tonight, very dry underfoot, with bracken perhaps a little lower than usual. Some explanation perhaps for the fact that I took 2:16 off my pb for this tough and excellent race - the first of the enjoyable Clwydian summer series. Definitely stepped up a gear too, deliberately started fast, plummeting down the valley from OD towards Fron Bellaf in third place. Kept it going quite well, quick pace down the narrow path with one close shave after a slip, and ran more of the very steep hill up Moel y Gaer than in previous years. Still well placed as we continued up the ridge before another fast descent down to Nant y Ne. No breeze at all for the climb back towards the gully - humid and hard as a result. As ever, the gully gave a desperate struggle up to the summit. But I didn't blow up and found myself alone for the long fast descent down OD to the finish. First vet for the second time in a week (shame I narrowly missed the hat-trick last Saturday!).
Time/Position: 38:41 (4th from 65 [1st v40])
Cooler than expected tonight, very dry underfoot, with bracken perhaps a little lower than usual. Some explanation perhaps for the fact that I took 2:16 off my pb for this tough and excellent race - the first of the enjoyable Clwydian summer series. Definitely stepped up a gear too, deliberately started fast, plummeting down the valley from OD towards Fron Bellaf in third place. Kept it going quite well, quick pace down the narrow path with one close shave after a slip, and ran more of the very steep hill up Moel y Gaer than in previous years. Still well placed as we continued up the ridge before another fast descent down to Nant y Ne. No breeze at all for the climb back towards the gully - humid and hard as a result. As ever, the gully gave a desperate struggle up to the summit. But I didn't blow up and found myself alone for the long fast descent down OD to the finish. First vet for the second time in a week (shame I narrowly missed the hat-trick last Saturday!).
Monday, June 21, 2010
Craig Ddu (etc) climbs
Crag: Craig Ddu, Llanberis
Routes: Crown of Thorns (S 4a:led p.1,2), Yellow Groove (VS 4b:led)
Crag: Drws y Gwynt, Llanberis
Routes: Cracked Wall (S:led), Little Sepulchre (VS 4b:sec)
Crag: Cefn Braich, Llanberis
Routes: Rib Route (VD:led p.2)
With the fine weather continuing, it seemed time to go for a venue that needs a drought for the routes to be feasible (or enjoyable). Craig Ddu was the obvious choice, with the seeping black wall on the left of the crag rarely in any kind of condition. Crown of Thorns goes straight up this wall, and was a pleasant and almost completely dry outing today. The atmosphere is rather sombre though, particularly as the sun had yet to hit the crag when I began. The route is simple but pleasant, up good holds to a ledge, before a groove on the right gains a platform. I continued up the next pitch, a slanting rampline up to a corner. After bringing up Alwyn, I led the short final pitch, up a slabby wall to a tricky steeper move which gains the top. We then moved across to the right of the crag, which has much more in common with the other crags on the south side of the pass: clean, friendly and sunny. Alwyn scrambled up to the base of Yellow Groove, which I then led. This is a superb pitch, as good as anything in Snowdonia at this grade, albeit marred by its brevity. The groove looks smooth and hard from below, but this is an illusion as it is furnished with huge holds. An initial crack leads to great moves right below an overhang. This gains a small ledge below the clean-cut groove: great climbing up this, using big holds on the edge in a great position (with superb protection) gains another small ledge and a more delicate, slabby finish. We tried to descend on the right of the crag, but this is problematic and involved a huge detour which brought us out below another crag. I recognised this as Drws y Gwynt and, although we had no guidebook, the lines looked obvious - so I led what turned out to be Cracked Wall. This is another of those easy little gems - it goes up on massive holds to gain a steep crack and a very steep finish (for the grade) which is climbed on huge pinnacle holds. Incredible rough rock and a great position high above the Pass make up for its shortness. Took the opportunity while here to also climb the obvious corner crack of Little Sepulchre: sustained and rather physical. I then wanted to lead Zigzag but Alwyn was tiring so we finished with Rib Route, a little VD, instead. Glorious sunshine as we descended, so I stopped off in Aber and ran from the A55 to Aber Falls in 15 minutes, partly because I was curious to see how much water was left. Answer: not much. Beautiful warm sunshine on the way back with the sea glistening below, lovely easy running.
Routes: Crown of Thorns (S 4a:led p.1,2), Yellow Groove (VS 4b:led)
Crag: Drws y Gwynt, Llanberis
Routes: Cracked Wall (S:led), Little Sepulchre (VS 4b:sec)
Crag: Cefn Braich, Llanberis
Routes: Rib Route (VD:led p.2)
With the fine weather continuing, it seemed time to go for a venue that needs a drought for the routes to be feasible (or enjoyable). Craig Ddu was the obvious choice, with the seeping black wall on the left of the crag rarely in any kind of condition. Crown of Thorns goes straight up this wall, and was a pleasant and almost completely dry outing today. The atmosphere is rather sombre though, particularly as the sun had yet to hit the crag when I began. The route is simple but pleasant, up good holds to a ledge, before a groove on the right gains a platform. I continued up the next pitch, a slanting rampline up to a corner. After bringing up Alwyn, I led the short final pitch, up a slabby wall to a tricky steeper move which gains the top. We then moved across to the right of the crag, which has much more in common with the other crags on the south side of the pass: clean, friendly and sunny. Alwyn scrambled up to the base of Yellow Groove, which I then led. This is a superb pitch, as good as anything in Snowdonia at this grade, albeit marred by its brevity. The groove looks smooth and hard from below, but this is an illusion as it is furnished with huge holds. An initial crack leads to great moves right below an overhang. This gains a small ledge below the clean-cut groove: great climbing up this, using big holds on the edge in a great position (with superb protection) gains another small ledge and a more delicate, slabby finish. We tried to descend on the right of the crag, but this is problematic and involved a huge detour which brought us out below another crag. I recognised this as Drws y Gwynt and, although we had no guidebook, the lines looked obvious - so I led what turned out to be Cracked Wall. This is another of those easy little gems - it goes up on massive holds to gain a steep crack and a very steep finish (for the grade) which is climbed on huge pinnacle holds. Incredible rough rock and a great position high above the Pass make up for its shortness. Took the opportunity while here to also climb the obvious corner crack of Little Sepulchre: sustained and rather physical. I then wanted to lead Zigzag but Alwyn was tiring so we finished with Rib Route, a little VD, instead. Glorious sunshine as we descended, so I stopped off in Aber and ran from the A55 to Aber Falls in 15 minutes, partly because I was curious to see how much water was left. Answer: not much. Beautiful warm sunshine on the way back with the sea glistening below, lovely easy running.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Moel Hebog fell race
Race: Ras Moel Hebog (4m/2400ft/AS)
Peaks: Moel Hebog
Time/Position: 55:57 (9th from 43 [2nd v40])
A great event and a classic short fell race, made even better by the perfect weather which continues to provide remarkable clarity of light and helpful dry conditions underfoot. Preparation for this was hardly ideal - 1000ft of rock climbing and nine hours on your feet the day before a race is probably not in any training manual. However, I didn't feel too bad through the delightful woods that lead from the pretty, sun-drenched meadow at the edge of Beddgelert to the track which takes you down to the base of the climb. Then comes a relentless ascent, which I have walked a few times before, up steep grass initially to a shoulder, then along the vague ridge which runs below the crags then curves right up rocky and very steep ground to the summit plateau. My legs inevitably began to tire before the top, partly because of recent activity, although I managed to pick up the pace across the top (36m to trig point) and descended the rocky terrain at the top quite well, moving into 7th or 8th place initially before others took better 'micro-lines' through the tricky terrain lower down. The descent is notoriously punishing for the quads, so I was pleased to keep it going reasonably well, especially when it levels off near the bottom (19m from summit to village). However, I did develop an enormous blister across the base of my heel, which rendered the last section uncomfortable. I got into a sprint finish with another chap, not realising it was actually a sprint for first v40. I ended up missing first place in the category by 6 seconds! Finished 2nd v40.
Peaks: Moel Hebog
Time/Position: 55:57 (9th from 43 [2nd v40])
A great event and a classic short fell race, made even better by the perfect weather which continues to provide remarkable clarity of light and helpful dry conditions underfoot. Preparation for this was hardly ideal - 1000ft of rock climbing and nine hours on your feet the day before a race is probably not in any training manual. However, I didn't feel too bad through the delightful woods that lead from the pretty, sun-drenched meadow at the edge of Beddgelert to the track which takes you down to the base of the climb. Then comes a relentless ascent, which I have walked a few times before, up steep grass initially to a shoulder, then along the vague ridge which runs below the crags then curves right up rocky and very steep ground to the summit plateau. My legs inevitably began to tire before the top, partly because of recent activity, although I managed to pick up the pace across the top (36m to trig point) and descended the rocky terrain at the top quite well, moving into 7th or 8th place initially before others took better 'micro-lines' through the tricky terrain lower down. The descent is notoriously punishing for the quads, so I was pleased to keep it going reasonably well, especially when it levels off near the bottom (19m from summit to village). However, I did develop an enormous blister across the base of my heel, which rendered the last section uncomfortable. I got into a sprint finish with another chap, not realising it was actually a sprint for first v40. I ended up missing first place in the category by 6 seconds! Finished 2nd v40.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Idwal enchainement
Crag: East Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: East Wall Girdle (VS 4a,4b,4b,4b:led p.1,3)
Crag: Holly Tree Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Original Route (VS 5a:sec)
Crag: Continuation Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Groove Above (S 4b:led)
Crag: Upper Cliff, Glyder Fawr
Routes: Grey Arete (HVS 4c,4c,5a:led p.1,2)
A magnificent day, with precisely 1,010ft of high quality climbing. East Wall Girdle has long been a target of mine, an intriguing long rising traverse which starts up the first pitch of Tennis Shoe and gradually weaves its way across this complex wall. I've led this pitch before and it's an enjoyable, though polished, romp up a subsidiary slab which I merged with the second pitch of the Girdle. Immediately, the polish is gone - replaced by the superbly rough bubbly rock of the East Wall. An easy quartz slab leads to a stance, after which Vic merged another pitch (conventional p.3+4) to the stance on Rake End Chimney. This was excellent, up another slab to a steepening, with a tricky move round a bulge to gain the Heather Wall slab. Some drizzle but it didn't matter, and it soon stopped. Great climbing on bubbly rock led left across the slab to a delicate move round an arete to gain the stance. I then led another long merged pitch, across an undulating line of weakness on perfect rock to gain the Ash Tree Wall, followed by the easy gangway that leads to the 'Meadow'. Vic finished up the final pitch, shared with Grooved Wall, up a steep wall in a good position before moving left and finishing up a splendid final groove. A terrific route, a Welsh classic, never technical but superbly sustained at a gentle standard and long enough to really satisfy. We were carrying a sac, by necessity on such a day, and scrambled across and down to enjoy lunch below Holly Tree Wall. Sunshine started to peep through as Vic led Original Route in one pitch. This is another cracking route, with a famously awkward start to gain a short groove. This didn't seem too hard, solved by a little side-pull, and gives access to the delightful Crescent Slab, which leads easily to a chimney. This was almost impossible to get up with my sac, so I moved out onto the left wall for a hard move on small positive holds (much harder than the supposed crux at the start). Easy climbing leads to a big ledge directly below Groove Above, which I led immediately. Again, this has a notorious awkward start, which again is only a few inches above the ground. Solved this fairly comfortably, to give nice climbing up a positive groove before the route quickly peters out on ledges which lead out to a rib and the top. Dehydration was now inevitably kicking in, as we finished our small bottle of water, but I managed to locate a stream as we continued up the scrambling terrain diagonally rightwards to the Grey Group. I remember doing a similar combination of linked routes here years ago, finishing with Grey Slab and thinking what a magnificent place this upper cliff is. This time, it had to be Grey Arete, which looks absolutely compelling from every angle. I led up the initial groove, which requires a semi-layback up a positive flake edge which eventually allows for a skip right to the arete itself. Easy climbing up this, on perfect rock, gains the belay: intricate, immaculate climbing, a great pitch. The position of the belay makes it impossible to merge, so I bought Vic up before continuing up the second pitch. This follows big pockets to a delicate and committing move on small holds. Tendrils of mist swept down the crag as I started up the wall - superbly atmospheric and memorable. Vic then led the final pitch up a steep flake which leads after one tricky move to a wide positive crack and easy shelves: the mist peeled away as I followed to reveal Llyn Idwal shimmering far below. A marvellous, classic climb in a truly wonderful position above it all and finishing near the top of Glyder Fawr. Three short cruxes, one on each pitch, but the route is generally straitforward enough to allow the position and line to be fully savoured. After an interesting scramble upwards, we traversed across to the top of Senior's Ridge and descended this to the East Wall Gully scramble - which gave more rock work back to the other sac where we'd started seven hours ago. As we descended further, all the mist and cloud gradually cleared with some wonderful effects, to leave an evening of unusual light clarity.
Routes: East Wall Girdle (VS 4a,4b,4b,4b:led p.1,3)
Crag: Holly Tree Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Original Route (VS 5a:sec)
Crag: Continuation Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Groove Above (S 4b:led)
Crag: Upper Cliff, Glyder Fawr
Routes: Grey Arete (HVS 4c,4c,5a:led p.1,2)
A magnificent day, with precisely 1,010ft of high quality climbing. East Wall Girdle has long been a target of mine, an intriguing long rising traverse which starts up the first pitch of Tennis Shoe and gradually weaves its way across this complex wall. I've led this pitch before and it's an enjoyable, though polished, romp up a subsidiary slab which I merged with the second pitch of the Girdle. Immediately, the polish is gone - replaced by the superbly rough bubbly rock of the East Wall. An easy quartz slab leads to a stance, after which Vic merged another pitch (conventional p.3+4) to the stance on Rake End Chimney. This was excellent, up another slab to a steepening, with a tricky move round a bulge to gain the Heather Wall slab. Some drizzle but it didn't matter, and it soon stopped. Great climbing on bubbly rock led left across the slab to a delicate move round an arete to gain the stance. I then led another long merged pitch, across an undulating line of weakness on perfect rock to gain the Ash Tree Wall, followed by the easy gangway that leads to the 'Meadow'. Vic finished up the final pitch, shared with Grooved Wall, up a steep wall in a good position before moving left and finishing up a splendid final groove. A terrific route, a Welsh classic, never technical but superbly sustained at a gentle standard and long enough to really satisfy. We were carrying a sac, by necessity on such a day, and scrambled across and down to enjoy lunch below Holly Tree Wall. Sunshine started to peep through as Vic led Original Route in one pitch. This is another cracking route, with a famously awkward start to gain a short groove. This didn't seem too hard, solved by a little side-pull, and gives access to the delightful Crescent Slab, which leads easily to a chimney. This was almost impossible to get up with my sac, so I moved out onto the left wall for a hard move on small positive holds (much harder than the supposed crux at the start). Easy climbing leads to a big ledge directly below Groove Above, which I led immediately. Again, this has a notorious awkward start, which again is only a few inches above the ground. Solved this fairly comfortably, to give nice climbing up a positive groove before the route quickly peters out on ledges which lead out to a rib and the top. Dehydration was now inevitably kicking in, as we finished our small bottle of water, but I managed to locate a stream as we continued up the scrambling terrain diagonally rightwards to the Grey Group. I remember doing a similar combination of linked routes here years ago, finishing with Grey Slab and thinking what a magnificent place this upper cliff is. This time, it had to be Grey Arete, which looks absolutely compelling from every angle. I led up the initial groove, which requires a semi-layback up a positive flake edge which eventually allows for a skip right to the arete itself. Easy climbing up this, on perfect rock, gains the belay: intricate, immaculate climbing, a great pitch. The position of the belay makes it impossible to merge, so I bought Vic up before continuing up the second pitch. This follows big pockets to a delicate and committing move on small holds. Tendrils of mist swept down the crag as I started up the wall - superbly atmospheric and memorable. Vic then led the final pitch up a steep flake which leads after one tricky move to a wide positive crack and easy shelves: the mist peeled away as I followed to reveal Llyn Idwal shimmering far below. A marvellous, classic climb in a truly wonderful position above it all and finishing near the top of Glyder Fawr. Three short cruxes, one on each pitch, but the route is generally straitforward enough to allow the position and line to be fully savoured. After an interesting scramble upwards, we traversed across to the top of Senior's Ridge and descended this to the East Wall Gully scramble - which gave more rock work back to the other sac where we'd started seven hours ago. As we descended further, all the mist and cloud gradually cleared with some wonderful effects, to leave an evening of unusual light clarity.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Helsby climbing
Crag: Helsby
Routes: Little by Little (S 4a:led), Notch Direct (S 4b:led), Oyster Slab Direct (VS 4b:sec), Oyster Slab Super Direct (HS 5a:sec), Green Teeth Gully (M!), Oblique Crack (HVD:led), Cloister Traverse (S 4a:sec)
This crag, so green and unappealing in winter, was rather pleasant this evening: beautifully sunny and warm. Didn't start climbing until 7pm, with a lead of Little by Little - ironically one of the very few routes here that I've done before. This takes chipped steps to a slanting groove, short but pleasant and simple. I then continued direct up the jugs to the atmospheric Notch finish through a sort of open gully. A nice long pitch, makes the best of the crag. Far-reaching views from the top in beautiful evening sunshine, unusual clarity over the industry of the Mersey to Liverpool, and left over the Cheshire plain to the Clwydians. Dale then led Oyster Slab direct on small edges, followed by the Super Direct with a tricky first move. Oblique Crack was an unpleasant slanting crack on the lower tier while Cloister Traverse is a long (30m) but weird pitch which takes the obvious break, starting and finishing on the ground.
Routes: Little by Little (S 4a:led), Notch Direct (S 4b:led), Oyster Slab Direct (VS 4b:sec), Oyster Slab Super Direct (HS 5a:sec), Green Teeth Gully (M!), Oblique Crack (HVD:led), Cloister Traverse (S 4a:sec)
This crag, so green and unappealing in winter, was rather pleasant this evening: beautifully sunny and warm. Didn't start climbing until 7pm, with a lead of Little by Little - ironically one of the very few routes here that I've done before. This takes chipped steps to a slanting groove, short but pleasant and simple. I then continued direct up the jugs to the atmospheric Notch finish through a sort of open gully. A nice long pitch, makes the best of the crag. Far-reaching views from the top in beautiful evening sunshine, unusual clarity over the industry of the Mersey to Liverpool, and left over the Cheshire plain to the Clwydians. Dale then led Oyster Slab direct on small edges, followed by the Super Direct with a tricky first move. Oblique Crack was an unpleasant slanting crack on the lower tier while Cloister Traverse is a long (30m) but weird pitch which takes the obvious break, starting and finishing on the ground.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
The Beast fell race
Race: The Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 39:06 (5th from 72 [1st v40])
A new route this year, which doubles the intensity of the climbs and makes it into a much tougher, better proposition. A beautiful evening, still and sunny, and fortunately a much improved performance. Decent pace maintained through the woods, then managed to keep running (slowly) all the way up 'the beast' to the limestone pavement at the top of Bryn Alyn. After descending to the bridleway, the new route heads straight back up the steepest, most tussocky slopes to revisit Bryn Alyn for a second time before descending the beast. Myself and Simon stayed together the whole way before I got a slight second wind as the route levelled out after climbing back through the woods to Maeshafn. Unfortunately, a couple of the top runners got lost, as had numerous runners (20?) lower down the field, which meant I gained a few places to finish 5th overall and 1st v40.
Time/Position: 39:06 (5th from 72 [1st v40])
A new route this year, which doubles the intensity of the climbs and makes it into a much tougher, better proposition. A beautiful evening, still and sunny, and fortunately a much improved performance. Decent pace maintained through the woods, then managed to keep running (slowly) all the way up 'the beast' to the limestone pavement at the top of Bryn Alyn. After descending to the bridleway, the new route heads straight back up the steepest, most tussocky slopes to revisit Bryn Alyn for a second time before descending the beast. Myself and Simon stayed together the whole way before I got a slight second wind as the route levelled out after climbing back through the woods to Maeshafn. Unfortunately, a couple of the top runners got lost, as had numerous runners (20?) lower down the field, which meant I gained a few places to finish 5th overall and 1st v40.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Foel Fras fell race
Race: Ras Foel Fras (12.8m/3800ft/AL)
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 1:59:18 (20/84)
After the drama of last year, when bad weather decimated the field and allowed me to get quite a good finishing position, this excellent circuit of the northern Carneddau was tranquil and dry today. Conditions were ideal for fast times, although for the third successive race I felt distinctly off-form. I struggled on all the climbs, not even managing to run all the way up the relatively gentle climb from Aber to the summit of Drum (although it is more than six miles long). Some mist and wind over Foel Fras and Garnedd Uchaf, although nothing compared to last year, and dry underfoot. I took a reasonable line through the boulders below Drosgl although my shoe came off at one point and I struggled again for the steep sting in the tail up Moel Wnion, the fourth peak. Superb sea views cheered me up, and I managed to put a spurt on for the great descent to the village to dip under two hours for this pleasingly logical round. Only 12 days since the marathon, so I suppose I'll have to blame that for my lack of endurance.
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 1:59:18 (20/84)
After the drama of last year, when bad weather decimated the field and allowed me to get quite a good finishing position, this excellent circuit of the northern Carneddau was tranquil and dry today. Conditions were ideal for fast times, although for the third successive race I felt distinctly off-form. I struggled on all the climbs, not even managing to run all the way up the relatively gentle climb from Aber to the summit of Drum (although it is more than six miles long). Some mist and wind over Foel Fras and Garnedd Uchaf, although nothing compared to last year, and dry underfoot. I took a reasonable line through the boulders below Drosgl although my shoe came off at one point and I struggled again for the steep sting in the tail up Moel Wnion, the fourth peak. Superb sea views cheered me up, and I managed to put a spurt on for the great descent to the village to dip under two hours for this pleasingly logical round. Only 12 days since the marathon, so I suppose I'll have to blame that for my lack of endurance.
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