Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby
Routes: Little by Little (S 4a:led), Notch Direct (S 4b:led), Oyster Slab Direct (VS 4b:sec), Oyster Slab Super Direct (HS 5a:sec), Green Teeth Gully (M!), Oblique Crack (HVD:led), Cloister Traverse (S 4a:sec)

This crag, so green and unappealing in winter, was rather pleasant this evening: beautifully sunny and warm. Didn't start climbing until 7pm, with a lead of Little by Little - ironically one of the very few routes here that I've done before. This takes chipped steps to a slanting groove, short but pleasant and simple. I then continued direct up the jugs to the atmospheric Notch finish through a sort of open gully. A nice long pitch, makes the best of the crag. Far-reaching views from the top in beautiful evening sunshine, unusual clarity over the industry of the Mersey to Liverpool, and left over the Cheshire plain to the Clwydians. Dale then led Oyster Slab direct on small edges, followed by the Super Direct with a tricky first move. Oblique Crack was an unpleasant slanting crack on the lower tier while Cloister Traverse is a long (30m) but weird pitch which takes the obvious break, starting and finishing on the ground.

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