Craig Ddu (etc) climbs

Crag: Craig Ddu, Llanberis
Routes: Crown of Thorns (S 4a:led p.1,2), Yellow Groove (VS 4b:led)
Crag: Drws y Gwynt, Llanberis
Routes: Cracked Wall (S:led), Little Sepulchre (VS 4b:sec)
Crag: Cefn Braich, Llanberis
Routes: Rib Route (VD:led p.2)
With the fine weather continuing, it seemed time to go for a venue that needs a drought for the routes to be feasible (or enjoyable). Craig Ddu was the obvious choice, with the seeping black wall on the left of the crag rarely in any kind of condition. Crown of Thorns goes straight up this wall, and was a pleasant and almost completely dry outing today. The atmosphere is rather sombre though, particularly as the sun had yet to hit the crag when I began. The route is simple but pleasant, up good holds to a ledge, before a groove on the right gains a platform. I continued up the next pitch, a slanting rampline up to a corner. After bringing up Alwyn, I led the short final pitch, up a slabby wall to a tricky steeper move which gains the top. We then moved across to the right of the crag, which has much more in common with the other crags on the south side of the pass: clean, friendly and sunny. Alwyn scrambled up to the base of Yellow Groove, which I then led. This is a superb pitch, as good as anything in Snowdonia at this grade, albeit marred by its brevity. The groove looks smooth and hard from below, but this is an illusion as it is furnished with huge holds. An initial crack leads to great moves right below an overhang. This gains a small ledge below the clean-cut groove: great climbing up this, using big holds on the edge in a great position (with superb protection) gains another small ledge and a more delicate, slabby finish. We tried to descend on the right of the crag, but this is problematic and involved a huge detour which brought us out below another crag. I recognised this as Drws y Gwynt and, although we had no guidebook, the lines looked obvious - so I led what turned out to be Cracked Wall. This is another of those easy little gems - it goes up on massive holds to gain a steep crack and a very steep finish (for the grade) which is climbed on huge pinnacle holds. Incredible rough rock and a great position high above the Pass make up for its shortness. Took the opportunity while here to also climb the obvious corner crack of Little Sepulchre: sustained and rather physical. I then wanted to lead Zigzag but Alwyn was tiring so we finished with Rib Route, a little VD, instead. Glorious sunshine as we descended, so I stopped off in Aber and ran from the A55 to Aber Falls in 15 minutes, partly because I was curious to see how much water was left. Answer: not much. Beautiful warm sunshine on the way back with the sea glistening below, lovely easy running.