Llanddulas cave climbs

Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Not Runout Groove (f5+:led), Clipterfyn (f5+:sec), Udder Head (f6a:led), India-Rubber Head (f6a:sec), Rosalind Franklin's Picture (f5:sec), Guano on Sight (f6a+:sec)
After a short break for lunch after the race, I headed west immediately to sample the new bolted crag above Llanddulas. Unsurprisingly, I was rather tired and not on the best of form, so my initial lead up Runout Groove seemed awkward. Rather rounded holds and surprisingly steep climbing: a mantel leads to easier climbing to the upper groove. Dale's lead, Clipterfyn, was similarly awkward and also rather dirty. Fortunately, Udder Head was far better. Good positive climbing up a wall to a left-leaning vague groove which steepens to give a fine finish. Its companion route to the left was also good, and even juggier. It moves right on steeper ground to join Udder Head for the final steep mantel. We then moved round to the main cave for the truly bizarre Rosalind Franklin's Picture, which climbs a gully (actually inside the cave, so pretty gloomy) then bridges out on green holds to gain an upper chamber with a sea view. Guano on Sight was probably the most unsuitable route to finish on given my fatigue: a slightly overhanging boss of tufa climbed mainly on huge jugs. Rather pumpy, steep and strenuous, although very good. I needed a couple of rests and will definitely come back to do it when I haven't done a 6-peak fell race in the morning!