Ben More Assynt

Peaks: Conival (987m), Ben More Assynt (998m), South Top (960m)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
These peaks are far more subtle and elusive than their more famous (but lower) neighbours to the west. They provided an equally memorable day, however. I left the cottage at 6.30am, in order to be back for lunch, in the best weather so far. Not a breath of wind, not a cloud in the sky as I left Inchnadamph for the long run up eastwards up the Gleann Dubh. The track gives way to a very pleasant and runnable path - cool, almost cold, in the depths of the glen at this time in the morning. After yesterday's rest, I made very rapid progress up the steep and boggy track leading to the mini-amphitheatre below Coire a'Mhadaidh. With an azure sky above, and white shattered quartzite forming the rock walls below the col, this felt distinctly Provencal! A tiny scramble through the headwall made the comparison even more forcefully and put me in mind of several Pre-Alpes outings. I emerged on the broad col, before more rocky terrain slowed the pace to a jog. A false summit brought the awkward terrain to a temporary halt and led to brilliant and exhilarating running along a grassy but sharp ridge to the summit of Conival (80 mins from road). A cloud inversion to the east and north, with Ben Hope notable. Perfect clarity over Quinag and Coigach. A really memorable jog along the bouldery and awkward ridge followed. I had the entire range to myself, again, and the morning light was stunning. Ben More Assynt feels remote, and is certainly quite far from any road: the land to the east is particularly wild. It seemed a terrible shame to reverse the route, as is apparently conventional. I dislike retracing steps at the best of times, and rejected the idea as soon as I saw the South Ridge of Ben More - which led enticingly to another top. This was a great decision, as the South Ridge gives a lovely mild scramble in a truly remote situation: the essence of mountain enjoyment. A couple of little slabs but generally just a narrow ridge poised between two wild cwms. Grassy running then led up to and over the South Top, before steep terrain makes a descent impossible until the col below Conbhairean, the next peak. I still descended too early, though, and was faced with very steep terrain for which some care, and weaving around, was demanded. I gained the shores of Dubh Loch Mor, a fabulous isolated spot with the song of ring ouzels all around. Hot sunshine now, as I contoured round to gain the obvious narrow bwlch between Conival and Breabag, following deer tracks for much of the way. Great running led through this to the top of the Allt a'Bheallaich and views of Canisp and Loch Assynt. Lower down I regained Gleann Dubh and the outward route, where I encountered the first people I'd seen all morning. A rather lengthy 3:50 for the round, explained perhaps by the tricky terrain. Back at the cottage before midday, however, to spend the afternoon at Clashnessie beach and Stoer.