Monday, April 25, 2011

Suilven

Peaks: Caisteal Liath (731m/2399ft), Meall Mheadhonach (701m/2300ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland

Arguably the finest peak in Britain, this was more or less compulsory given the location of the cottage. It's a long way from the road, which adds to the appeal, and it is eminently suitable for a running approach, particularly as an excellent stalker's path leads right into the heart of the wild country of the Glencanisp Forest and gives access to the mountain. I left the roadhead after another tortuous drive and ran past a series of lakes formed by the Abhainn na Clach Airigh. The morning cloud was breaking up superbly and this marvelous peak changes shape continually as you get closer to it. After 40 minutes of running, I struck off to the south over a series of boggy rises to a superb view of Canisp over the wild and remote Loch na Gainimh. After skirting a smaller loch, I attacked the Bealach Mor - although was forced to slow to a walk for this section. It is relentlessly steep but gives very quick access to the col between the peaks. Sudden, superb views south over the peaks of Coigach. An excellent twisting path leads via some mild scrambling to the dome-like main summit of Caisteal Liath: 99 minutes from the road. As the peak rises in isolation from the surrounding plateau of rock and water, it gives tremendous views in all directions. A cold wind blew, and I hurriedly got into my gilet to enjoy a rare two minute banana break. Lochinver looked very distant and I doubted my ability to get back for lunch, as promised, particularly if I was to bag Meall Meadhonach first. Indeed, despite all the wonderful distant views it is this sharp sister peak that really grabs the attention. Its spire complements the dome of Caisteal Liath and it was clearly unmissable (although most people bizarrely seemed to do just that), so I jogged down to Bealach Mor and continued running up the grassy ridge opposite. This levels to become a perfect platform leading to a short rocky descent and 'breche' before the final scramble which leads enjoyably to a little wall which demands a moment's thought. A great summit, which I had to myself, with magnificent views back along the ridge and down to the coast. Perfect clarity, with all the cloud gone. Canisp and Stac Pollaidh notable from here. I ran back down the ridge after descending the awkward wall, past a tame ptarmigan, and jogged down the steep gully before quickening the pace back down the stalker's path all the way to the pie shop in Lochinver in time for lunch (3:15 in total).

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