Tremadog climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Hail Bebe (VD:led p.2,4), Striptease (VS 5a:sec), The Fang (HVS 5a,5a:sec), Meshach (HVS 4c,5a:led p.1)
Despite the supposed arrival of high pressure after weeks of unsettled weather since we returned from France, dispiriting steady drizzle accompanied my drive west. Tremadog is the obvious choice in such circumstances, but it was still raining as I met Mick at the cafe, so we went up to Bwlch y Moch to do an easy route. I'd never considered doing Hail Bebe before, but it's a nice route. Mick led up a short thrutchy chimney, before I 'led' the scrappy path through a jungle to merge with the next pitch, which takes a nice clean crack up to a comfortable tree. Mick led up the continuation crack, pleasant, to the stance on One Step. The rain got heavier as I led the final pitch which takes the obvious exposed traverse line also taken by the final pitch of One Step (which I last did in 1994). This is polished and hence required care in the wet conditions: I foot traversed the flake, as the grade suggests. We then met Vic, and waited in the cafe for the rain to stop. It was still spitting after a cuppa so we did the classic wet weather option up the steep chimney of Striptease. I've led this before and remembered it well, so Mick brought us both up as a warm-up. It's a good little route - with three distinct cruxes up small overhangs, made much easier by adopting a 'traditional' approach. The rock in the chimney is almost like juggy tufa limestone in places, reminiscent of some routes at Chateauvert for instance. By the time we abbed down, the rain had stopped, so Vic led the first pitch of The Fang. This goes up an awkward crack before traversing across to good moves laybacking a steep crack with little footholds on a small arete. Tricky to do it as a rope of three, so I waited on top of the pillar while Mick led through. The second pitch gives superb and varied climbing, across the steep wall below 'the fang'. Very fingery until you find the crucial pocket. Then a blind grope around the arete, for which I went too high and was faced with delicate edging until I moved lower down to gain better holds. The route than changes character as you inch up the long slab - immaculate, quite delicate climbing with small positive holds and superb rock throughout. Little pockets and flakes make it straightforward but never too obvious or simple. I then led the first pitch of Meshach, another very obvious gap in my Tremadog CV. This was just what I needed after a summer with little climbing: long (35m), absorbing, well-protected and very enjoyable. It takes an intricate, weaving line between Grim Wall and Shadrach. Up blocky rock to a nice groove, then easily up to the flake on Shadrach before a delicate traverse left on little positive holds to a tiny ledge. Up a crack to a perfect spike, after which I continued up the crack rather than moving left to the belay - I was obviously enjoying myself too much! This gave another traverse and meant event more weaving around. The top pitch is even better. Steep flakes and ledges lead up to the peg, before superb moves above the overlap using a small pocket and one polished foothold gain easier climbing. Another intricate pitch, which then moves left before a long traverse right on perfectly positioned small positive holds. Surprisingly unpolished and a really great route - probably does warrant HVS, but low in the grade.