Meall a'Bhuiridh

Peak: Meall a'Bhuiridh (1108m/3635ft)
Area: Blackmount, Central Highlands
Somewhat annoyingly, this was probably the best day of the week in terms of weather, but also the day we had to leave Skye. I tentatively suggested a run from the Cluanie Inn as we drove past, but this was rejected by the democratic family unit. Instead, we continued all the way past Glencoe then stopped for lunch at the White Corries ski centre. This gave me an hour to get something done and break the long journey more satisfyingly. I used mechanical assistance for the first time ever in the UK, taking the chair lift up to Coire Pollach. Above, an incredible scene for the time of year: a virtually complete snowfield leading up to the summit. I ran along the tracks then up the snow slopes in Mudclaws. Knee deep at times, until I found a line of steps. Several parties were on skis. The weather was cold, but the sun was starting to peek through. Blue sky and white snow: a late season reminder of the joys of winter mountaineering. I picked my way up more interesting snow slopes further west and gained the summit of Meall a'Bhuiridh shortly afterwards. I was very tempted to continue along the ridge to Creise but this would have been exceptionally badly received by the family. Instead, I enjoyed a truly superb glissade down the snow: perhaps the best I've ever experienced. This lead in a matter of minutes to the chairlift, and I continued the run down the rocky path all the way to the cafe: batteries recharged for the long drive home.

Glamaig (race route)

Peak: Glamaig (775m/2543ft)
Area: Red Cuillin, Skye
This peak was famously run in less than an hour by a Gurkha in 1899: it is now an annual race, and that record has long since been broken. I thought that an attempt to break the hour would make a nice pre-lunch birthday treat. In the morning, we enjoyed a truly memorable long family walk out to the tidal Oronsay island in constantly changing weather conditions and huge skies. From there, an ultra-strong Cuban coffee in Struan set me up nicely for an attempt at the race route. I started my stopwatch when I gained the path near the Sconser road car park opposite the Sligachan Inn (which is, I think, where the race starts). The level section up to the base of the hill was horrendously boggy: just one giant aquatic plod, knee deep at times. Gaining the steep slopes of Glamaig was a relief by comparison, but this is an extremely steep hill. Its shape echoes Mount Fuji, although it is a narrower cone. The angle is unrelenting and not really runnable, but I made steady striding progress up to the screes which start half way up the peak. This slowed me a bit, and the last section beyond a small forepeak was even slower. I gained the summit and stopped my watch on 42 minutes: slower than expected but great views as the weather had cleared again during my ascent. Raasey and Loch Sconser, Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir, and the nearby Red Cuillin all impressive. I ran flat out back down the screes, superbly enjoyable, and plunged into the bog at the bottom, getting back to the car park in 22 minutes from the summit (64 minutes in total). A big birthday lunch at the Sligachan followed, setting us up for a walk up Coire na Creiche to see the Fairy Pools.

Duirinish coast traverse (Ramasaig to Orbost)

A memorable and wonderful run: the opportunity to do this from our cottage in Glendale was too good to miss, to the extent that I was prepared to forego a morning in the mountains for it. It is tricky logistically, as both roadheads are remote to say the least. But we were staying just a few miles from Ramasaig, so K and E dropped me off there first thing in the morning (then went back to their warm beds), and I arranged to meet them three hours later in Orbost (although it didn't take me that long as the route, although 'up and down', was only 23k). Some say this is the best coastal walk in the British Isles: it is certainly right up there and works brilliantly as a run. Ramasaig was very remote, just one farmhouse. I ran a couple of miles south-east down the ultra-muddy Lon Ban (a track churned up by farm animals) to the deserted (cleared in 1830) village of Lorgill and a lonely small bay. From here, the coastal path was extremely tenuous - the opposite of those found in Cornwall, for example. I followed sheep tracks above the sea to a diversion inland at the Scaladal Burn. A long and boggy run back towards the sea led to a narrow path at last. The rest of the run to the headland was just stunning. Wonderfully wild scenery with weather to match: and firm, springy turf underfoot. A strong cross/tailwind blew a few sharp showers in, resulting in a spectacular skyscape which magnificently complemented the landscape. The cliffs were split at regular intervals by pronounced river valleys, the first of which - at Glen Dibidil - was quite hard to cross after recent rain, but the climbs out were never that long. The scenic highlight came shortly afterwards, the stunning stacks and arches below Glen Lorgasdal, with a Skye speciality, a waterfall plunging directly into the sea. After this, a classic geo/zawn, and a view of the sea stacks known as Macleod's Maidens. Here, the path tracks inland for a bit, below the little hill of Steineval. I lost the path at this point, ending up crashing through a nightmarish terrain of gorse and deep drainage channels, reliant on deer trails to get me out. Lots of skittish red deer in this area. Eventually, exhausting bog led to Idrigill where I found the path. Excellent running in a very sharp hail shower led past Brandarsaig Bay, with views over Loch Brachadale, to conifer forests. The sun came out at tranquil Loch Bharcasaig, which also has its own private mountain glen attached. Almost warm by the time I got to Orbost and met the family for a late breakfast in Dunvegan.

Quiraing walk

This is one of the most unusual and spectacular landscapes in the British Isles. I have wanted to explore Trotternish for many years, and we took a risk today - hopeful that the forecast rain would hold off until we'd finished our Trotternish tour. From the top of the Uig-Staffin road, we all set off towards the magical landscape of spires, crags and meadows that is recognisable immediately as the unique Quiraing. Black clouds flirted with the top of the crags, but some sunshine lit the meadows and lent incredible definition to the views. Behind, the rest of the Trotternish ridge stretched away towards the Storr. In front, the sea, Rona and Applecross. I think the children were quietly impressed, despite M's insistence on listening to a podcast! They didn't complain anyway, and we made good progress along the path at the foot of the crags to reach the Prison, a tottering crag which forms a kind of gateway with the very slender Needle to its left. This gives access to a gentler section past a little lake towards Loch Hasco. E and I continued along to the ridge that doubles back to the summit above Coire Mhic Eachainn. We varied the route back, below the Prison on soft green grass, and arrived back at the col hungry. No problem though, as we chanced on a remarkable Indian takeaway in the tiny village of Brogaig: freshly baked nan, homemade curries and basmati rice as we looked out over Staffin Bay.

Sgurr a'Mhadaidh

Peak: Sgurr a'Mhadaidh (918m/3012ft)

Area: Cuillin, Skye
Unlike all our previous trips to the Highlands at this time of year, weather luck was not with us this week. It was far from a washout, but it was cold: too cold to execute my plans to explore the bits of the Cuillin ridge that I missed in 1993. This was apparent again this morning. I planned to do a big chunk of the ridge, and got up very early to do just that. But after parking in Glen Brittle and running up to Coire a'Ghreadaidh (again quite gentle so very quick progress) it became obvious quite quickly that the weather would force a downscaling. From the top of the lower corrie, a steeper rise leads to a river crossing then a pull into an upper cwm. Atmospheric again, with mist swirling around the crags above and a few teams already on their way down! I decided not to go for the traverse of Mhadaidh, opting instead for the safe option of the steep screes that lead to the tiny pass of An Dorus ('the door': very similar to the kind of narrow 'breche' you see in the Southern Alps). The wind howled through this gap, and I grappled with all my spare clothes. The route out of the gap was tricky initially, soaking rock and a windchill (according to the mountain weather forecast) of -15C! It was cold on the fingers to say the least, but above this little pitch the route to the summit eases considerably to a series of ledges which then led to enjoyable but cold and wet scrambling to a very windy summit (73 minutes from Glen Brittle). At that moment, the wind tore a hole in the mist revealing superb views of a black and forbidding Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, and Sgurr Thuilm. I had my winter climbing gloves, down jacket and waterproofs on, and was still cold. My ancient fell running shoes were OK on the wet gabbro, not so good on the wet basalt, but nothing is. The little pitch to An Dorus was tricky, and an abseil rope was in situ on the Greadaidh side. It was raining too, so I decided to abandon even my worst case 'fall back' option and not bother with Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh. Instead, I beat a prudent retreat from An Dorus back to Glen Brittle. Very good, fast running: back at the cottage in Glendale before 11am in time for a venison platter at the Red Roof cafe.

Am Basteir

Peak: Am Basteir (934m/3064ft)
Area: Cuillin, Skye
This peak is an impressive blade of rock when seen from Sgurr nan Gillean and also has an alluring name which has traditionally been translated as 'the executioner'. On my last proper visit to Skye, in 1993, I clearly remember a 30 second clearance in an appalling week of weather as we sat on the tiny summit of Gillean. Am Basteir looked good then, but it's taken me 22 years to come back (it rained continually that week in 1993!). This was just one of my usual short early morning outings, adopting a lightweight running approach with small sack and fell running shoes. The weather wasn't great, a cold north-westerly put the air temperature at 1C on the ridge, with a considerable windchill. Not ideal for scrambling. The path up towards Coire a'Bhasteir from Sligachan is just gently inclining and superbly runnable. I made very rapid progress, gaining the spur in 20 minutes. This broad spur is not easy to negotiate, with tenuous paths running between small crags, but it leads below Pinnacle Ridge to the atmospheric Coire a'Bhasteir. In these conditions of drizzle and swirling mist, it borders on intimidating. The onward route is a little tricky, and I had to downclimb a gully at one point to pick up the main path which is obvious once you are on it. This leads via long scree zigzags up to the Bealach a'Bhasteir: a tight col between Gillean and Am Basteir. Visibility was quite bad and the rock was soaking as I embarked on the East Ridge of Am Basteir. This is easy, just shattered sloping shelves and scree, but quite neatly defined, and leads to the 'bad step'. This is steep on the crest, and I had no wish to reverse what looked like 4b moves on wet rock in my damaged Mud Claws. I traversed sloping and soaking gabbro shelves to the left sounding out a feasible descent, eventually locating an easier downclimb about 20ft below the crest: steep but with good holds. It's then just a short jog up a fairly narrow continuation ridge to the top: very cold, shifting mist with the odd view of the Bhasteir tooth emerging from the mist and rain. It was nice to be on the main Cuillin ridge in these conditions: nobody around. A quick descent, very easy to reclimb the bad step, led to the bealach. Then good scree running down to a cold and wet corrie floor. Fine running all the way back to Sligachan: less than three hours in total, so back at our cottage before lunch.

Beinn Odhar

Peak: Beinn Odhar (901m/2956ft)
Area: Tyndrum, Southern Highlands
An ideal way to break the journey north, this Corbett rises above Tyndrum and lends itself to a short, sharp run. After a night in Dumbarton, we had breakfast at the Real Food cafe, then I set off from the A82 in perfect sunny conditions, ploughing diagonally up the steep slopes (too steep to be runnable) above the road to eventually pick up the broad south ridge much higher up. There is a semblance of a path up this, but this hill is another illustration of the pull that Munros exert. It is only just below the mark, extremely accessible, but I had it to myself in stunning weather. After a short narrowing of the now runnable ridge, a lochan is gained, before steeper boulder fields lead to the summit. Great views over Beinn Dorain, its more illustrious neighbour (which I ran up in torrential rain this time last year). Indeed, the views across the entire Southern Highlands were excellent: Ben Lui, Cruach Ardrain and Ben Cruachan were particularly notable. I had one hour (in total) at my disposal, so ran flat out down the south ridge to the West Highland Way, treating the subsequent run back to Tyndrum and the family as a mini speed session.

Nant Ffrancon climbing

Crag: Craig Braich Ty Ddu, Carneddau
Routes: Decameron Rib (VS 4a,4b,4a:led p.1,2), Cuckoo Groove Direct (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Route 2 (S:led p.1)
This collection of crags has never been popular, even though they are not far above the A5. I did a few routes here with Tim in 2002, and did the scramble up the broken face above a few times as a teenager. As so often, the routes are good but it's a downward spiral: they get left out of selective guides, nobody goes there, the paths fall into obscurity and the routes get vegetated. Meanwhile the polish on the classics gets worse. I always like doing something different, so persuaded Vic to join me for the awkward traverse over multiple shallow heathery gullies to get to Decameron Rib, probably the most obvious and eye-catching line here (although the vast majority of visits to this crag are for Pinnacle Ridge). Rather cold, cloudy and windy as I started the first pitch, up an awkward crack splitting the rib left of the deep groove that marks the route out from below. There are actually numerous options for this first pitch, but I enjoyed this way, which seemed the cleanest and most frequently travelled (all relatively speaking, however) - up to a pinnacle, then a tricky move up to a long flat hold and a couple of saplings to a small stance below the roof. Vic led off up pitch two but didn't fancy the move below the roof. So we swapped leads and I edged along good footholds to a committing move round the bulge below the roof. A perfect little sidepull and a skip right allows for another sideways move to gain a little ledge in the bottomless groove. Good gear here, but the continuation crack was sadly vegetated and dirty: very likely the first ascent this year. Straightforward climbing, bridging to avoid the plantlife, led to a dodgy pinnacle, then more interesting climbing to a small stance (too low, but I was keen to avoid drag). Above, the third pitch takes a very pleasant slab up to a huge sculpted flake and a finish up a pinnacle - in the sunshine now, warm and welcome. A nice VS, deserves far more traffic than it gets. We abbed off down the gully to the right for a sunny lunch, enjoying superb views over Nant Ffrancon to Y Garn and Foel Goch. A slog up another gully, wet and unpleasant, led to the next buttress up. I'd been here before, for Route 2, but we went for the eye-catching line of Cuckoo Groove. As it happens, a cuckoo was calling (and flying around) as Vic led the first pitch. The crux comes immediately: a good 5a move, awkwardly stepping off a flake on to a very steep, slightly impending wall. Small holds and smaller footholds until a finger crack can be grabbed. Then good climbing to a stance in the groove. My pitch was supposedly 4b: it led down and right on excellent rock, but the gear was sparse. I made two committing moves up to a footledge, got some small wires in behind a thin flake, then made another move into the groove above. It looked very committing indeed: reasonable climbing but all the cracks are hopelessly shallow seams. Basically no gear, and the arête above looked similarly committing. Reminded me of the second pitch of Grey Arete: far too early in the season having led virtually no trad pitches all year! So after a rather harrowing downclimb, I continued up the direct version of the route. This isn't in the old guidebook, presumably because it makes the route too disjointed (indeed, the HVS line is a bit contrived as it seeks difficulty by moving away from the main groove line). But the continuation groove still gave a nice pitch of about 4a, up quartz holds and good flakes. I assume this direct line up the groove was not a first ascent! We finished with the excellent Route 2, which I did with Tim in 2002. It's one of the best Severe pitches in Eryri, but completely unheralded. I led a short pitch one over blocks and pinnacles, then (tired after what had gone before) followed Vic up an awkward crux, which involves a very steep thrutch to stand on a pinnacle, then an off-balance reach to exit a wide crack. Above, the delightful upper wall runs to superb jugs and flakes on immaculate rough rock.

Rhyl 5k

Race: Rhyl 5k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 17.57 (6th from 104 [2nd V40])
The fact that no runners went under 17 minutes this evening suggests that the headwind in the last 2k must have made a bit of a difference to the times. I was almost a minute slower than I'd hoped for, and over a minute down on my PB. After jogging round the junior race with E (this is an ideal family event for me, so close to St Asaph), I set off in a small group of around 10 lead runners out to the west, then around for a long run along the prom with tailwind to the turn near Rhyl golf course. I made up a few places on a difficult run-in, with quite a strong headwind. Felt sluggish throughout, but enjoyed the race - my first 5k for quite a while.

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Big A55 Arete (f6a+:led), Pendulum Corner (f5+:sec), Agent Orange (f5+:led), Y Clip Aur (f6a:sec)
We replenished some of the energy lost on this morning's long run over the Carneddau with bacon sandwiches at the Aber cafe. It was windy at the Sychnant pass, and this crag is rather exposed, so probably not the ideal choice particularly as the lines we started with are the highest in the quarry, with great views over the sea and Orme. I'd tried to find the A55 arete line last year, but ended up on the 6c+ Whole of the Law instead! Steve, Hayley and I loosened our legs from the morning run on the longish walk over to the crag, and found the true arete line easily. It gives a lovely 22m climb, but as is often the case with the easier coastal sports routes, was overgraded. Nice moves over an overlap give access to a delicate and absorbing tapering slab. I stuck religiously to the arete, which might make it almost f6a, but it would very likely get 5+ at the most in Provence (certainly not the f6a+ or even f6b given). A great crux at the top on little holds, shuffling out to a sloping foothold on the arete itself. The wind was a problem, given the delicate nature of the climbing, and my fingers were very cold. Hayley seconded then led the obvious corner line of Pendulum Corner. Steve followed, and I went up with the rope above. Another strong line, a very enjoyable juggy romp with some light bridging as it steepens towards the top, although dramatically overgraded again (f4+ at the most if it was in France). We were getting cold, but the weather stayed dry (despite black clouds and a few spots of drizzle) so I led the obvious steep slab which runs below the A55 Arete. This gives another excellent easy route. Elegant climbing, even in the wind, with delightful moves up the steep slab on sharp holds and ledges (f5). We tried to get out of the wind on the smaller slab where we'd climbed last summer. I went for the 6c crack line by way of an appropriate finale to a long day. This goes easily up to a hard crux which was rendered desperate by the cold wind. I couldn't feel my fingers, which was a real problem as the crux depends on little finger jams and tiny two finger holds. Just ripples for the feet. I made two attempts, and reached the crucial flat hold to clip the final bolt on the second attempt. But my attempts to smear failed, and I slipped again. It should go reasonably easily in warmer and calmer weather though. We finished with the easy f6a to its left instead. A varied, enjoyable and tiring day.

Carneddau traverse

Peaks: Bera Mawr, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Grach, Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A really enjoyable jog over the first half of the 1000m peaks race. I've done the race three times and it has always been one of my favourites. I did the old route (avoiding Glyder Fawr) in 2008 and 2009 (when I came 8th in appalling conditions: it made the BBC news that day!), and the new route (when I had a much better 4:45 run) in 2011, my Welsh Champs year. Simon and Steve invited me along for the reccie alongside Andy and Hayley. It was a great convivial crowd, but sadly I was unable to remember some of the micro route details after we'd run from the coast to the path above Aber Falls into Cwm Afon Goch. I couldn't recall which gully to take, so we went slightly too far up the cwm and headed up the hillside direct to Bera Mawr emerging just above the shallow valley which I recognised from the race. So, no harm done. From here, we crossed between Bera Mawr and Bera Bach into a strong headwind with the mist down. This was good for the reccie, typical conditions and challenging navigation: we ran on a bearing through this famously featureless terrain, just under the new checkpoint at Yr Aryg, skirting Carnedd Gwenllian summit, then picking up the main Carneddau path to the shelter on Foel Grach. After a bite to eat and some extra layers, we ploughed onwards into a strong and cold headwind all the way to the summit of Llewellyn, one of my favourite places. The mist cleared briefly allowing views over Ysgolion Duon and beyond. Very cold for the time of year. Superb running, enjoyed by all the crew, along the ridge to Dafydd, pointing out the 'racing lines' where I could. A steep descent down to Bodesi and our 'second car' in Ogwen completed an enjoyable morning outing. We replenished some calories in the excellent Hen Felin (Aber) cafe before embarking on the second part of the day: climbing at Penmaenbach.

Llanddulas climbing

Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Mind Light (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind Direct (f6b:sec), Poet Lariat (f6a:led), Not Runout Groove (f5+/6a:sec), Runout Groove (f6b:sec)
After our brief rain-soaked visit here last week, I realised there was some untapped potential so headed back there with Vic in high winds on a brief evening visit. Gusts up to 40mph, so we hoped that the cave and north-east aspect might protect us. It worked a treat, and it was largely calm as I led Mind Light, the first of two longish (20m) routes at f6a+ left of the main cave visible from the A55. The rock is a rather smooth white limestone, mottled with lichen. It runs to rather flat holds and the climbing is quite a bit harder and steeper than it looks from below. Mind Light takes a vague groove heading diagonally right on reasonable holds. Nice flowing climbing up to a good rest on a big footledge. Then steep moves go straight up to the finishing crack, where the position of the lower-off means that the crux is right at the top. I had to leave the crack and make a move or two on small holds up the smooth wall at the top to reach the chains. Satisfyingly smooth lead and a good route. Its companion, Karmic Wind, is a bit harder as it has a distinct crux at half height. After easy, quite juggy climbing low down, I misread the route and went too far right. It actually goes up to the left: a nice sequence of long reaches and small nicks for the feet. Had to steady myself as I moved across to the right line but did the moves cleanly and quickly. Easier and enjoyable climbing leads to the top. The direct route seemed easier, despite the grade, and I continued through with rope above on a private little eliminate of my own making: good training. The weather was clearing nicely, so we headed to the sunshine on the west-facing lower crag (Forgotten Sun area). Sadly, this meant we bore the brunt of the wind, although it was easing slightly. I've done a few routes here before, so led a 6a that I haven't ticked. It was a poor route. Flat holds and awkward climbing up to a mantel to a grassy ledge. Then more sloping handholds and polished footholds lead to a tricky finish. We finished off with the two lines up the groove. The indirect, which I've led before, is awkward and not very good, and takes a weird circuitous line to gain the obvious 'HVS' groove above. Runout Groove itself may be more technical, and gets a 6b grade, but feels easier and takes a more logical direct line up to the groove on small but less polished and more positive holds.

Penmaenhead/Llanddulas climbing

Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: The Long Run Home (f6a:led), Go with the Flow (f6a:led), Statement of Twilight Years (f6b:led), Fixe Inox City (f6b+:sec*)
Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Lemon Crunch (f5:sec)
A frustrating evening dodging heavy showers. It had been dry all day in Colwyn Bay (but raining in Chester). Arriving at the crag, that all reversed - a heavy and prolonged shower saw us sheltering under trees then waiting for the routes to dry. Luckily, they dry quickly so we headed up to the Expressway wall. The 6a on the far left is even closer to the A55 than the other routes: to the point that you can't hear yourself think! It was a bit damp in places, but gives nice climbing up a steep wall on small juggy holds to a badly placed second clip which I shamelessly steadied myself on. From here, easier climbing up the arete leads to big flat holds and the finish. Nice rough rock, but not quite as good as the routes further right. We moved through the mud to the Flowstone Wall, where Hayley backed off the slabby 6a (Go with the Flow) in damp conditions. I led through, finding it more technical than I remembered from previous ascents, perhaps because of the damp (and associated muddy feet and hands). The crux involves a pinched little stalactite and the rock above is hard to read from below, but leads to a great pocketed hold. I was keen to push the grade a bit as the rock was drying, so went for the 6b (Statement of Twilight Years) further right. Very muddy at the base, so cleaning the shoes and hands became an issue. Some damp hindered progress too, all of which wasn't ideal as the first clip is a long way up. From a ledge though, some good holds and long reaches lead to the clip, then some excellent technical and fingery climbing often involving high steps and intricate footwork. It is never desperate or overly strenuous, just off-vertical and lowish in the 6b grade. A satisfying onsight lead up small positive edges and flat holds, moving right to the lower-off. I took the opportunity to try the 6b+ to its right, which goes quite easily to a desperate final move which spat me off. A far more disjointed line: not as good as the easier but more sustained and continuous 6b. Hayley then led the f5 as the rain started again, so we left the crag. It was very early, so we parked in Llanddulas and walked up to the cave, a venue I've only visited once before. It was wet, even the subterranean routes inside the cave were seeping. Further right, the wall of white limestone looked extremely inviting but was damp, bordering on wet. Hayley picked her way up Lemon Crunch at f5, an absorbing task in these conditions - wet and slippery all the way up, but well bolted for a change. I had a look at the steeper routes further right, but they were far too wet and by now it was raining again so we slithered down the muddy paths back to the car.

Thurstaston MT race

Race: Thurstaston Multi-Terrain Challenge (6m)
Time/Position: 38.38 (15th from 143 [3rd V40])
I blew up disastrously on this race last year, really suffering in the last mile having got the pacing wrong. A complete contrast tonight: thoroughly enjoyed the excellent course, but started far too slowly, found myself well off the pace and finished 90 seconds slower than 2014. Perhaps next year I will finally pace it correctly! It's a great race, genuinely multi-terrain. A heavy shower passed over just before the start, but a very strong cross/headwind made life predictably tricky for the initial two mile run along the beach. Black clouds billowing over the Dee estuary and the Welsh hills. I was very conservative along the beach, but it is good fun skipping through the stones and deciding whether to opt for the wet sand. The route heads gently uphill through a housing estate before dipping into the woods and a rollercoaster ride along twisting paths and steep steps. All good fun. I was feeling pretty good, but this was probably just a result of my slow pace. After another tarmac section, the finish is along the seemingly endless Wirral cycle path that heads back to the reserve centre via some fields. Picked up a prize for 1st V40 but only by default!

Eglwyseg climbing

Crag: Pinfold, Eglwyseg
Routes: Toccata (VS 5a:sec), Phallic Tower (HVS 5a:sec), Marnie (HVS 4c:sec), Heloma Durum (f6a+:led), Calefaction (VS 4c:sec), Auto da Fe (S 4a:led)
I rarely do trad limestone these days, so Pinfold is not the ideal venue. But it is a lovely silent valley and I have happy memories of trips here in the early 90s (when it was a bit less polished). It's still a quiet place though, and we had the entire valley to ourselves on this Bank Holiday. Vic led old favourite Toccata to begin. I remembered this as a rather stiff VS, and my memory proved reliable! A polished and insecure start on slippery footholds leads to a jutting block in the crack. Overcoming this is supposedly the crux but actually gives an easy move on big holds. Phallic Tower had an insecure start, with all the action taking place at ankle damaging height, as is usual on this crag. So I was happy to remain passenger. Once the phallic tower is gained, the route goes easily up blocky limestone to the top. Marnie is top end HVS, not far off E1 5a. A hard start up an awkward wall leads to a step right into a lovely looking clean hanging groove. Once established in this, the route becomes easier - but the crack in the rather smooth groove is thin and not especially helpful. Very strong line though, and good climbing. Further left, beyond the gully, I led a semi-sports climb (two bolts) up the smooth wall right of the old HVS Exostosis. This was short, and lacked independence, but had a neat and quite technical (f6a+) move up the steep wall by the second bolt. A steep VS, Calefaction, held no memories for me, rather surprising. Quite tough for the grade, it goes up a crack to a small overhang. From a big undercut, you reach up for a nice jug, then expect to find another higher up. Instead, you have to make do with a flattish hold. I finished with a lead of an easy Severe up double cracks that I have done before.

Sussex run

Staying in Eastbourne for a wedding, I left the hotel on the seafront for a morning run to find distinctly unusual south coast conditions of driving rain and strong wind. I ran along the seafront into the headwind, dropping down to a tree-lined gravel path directly above the sea for a while. I continued west to pick up the start of the South Downs Way. I entered the mist after a few feet of climbing and felt at home - I might have been in the Moelwyns above Blaenau Ffestiniog rather than Beachy Head. I ran along the grassy clifftop path for a while but was wet and couldn't see a thing, so sprinted back to the hotel for a mini speed session.