Eglwyseg climbing

Crag: Pinfold, Eglwyseg
Routes: Toccata (VS 5a:sec), Phallic Tower (HVS 5a:sec), Marnie (HVS 4c:sec), Heloma Durum (f6a+:led), Calefaction (VS 4c:sec), Auto da Fe (S 4a:led)
I rarely do trad limestone these days, so Pinfold is not the ideal venue. But it is a lovely silent valley and I have happy memories of trips here in the early 90s (when it was a bit less polished). It's still a quiet place though, and we had the entire valley to ourselves on this Bank Holiday. Vic led old favourite Toccata to begin. I remembered this as a rather stiff VS, and my memory proved reliable! A polished and insecure start on slippery footholds leads to a jutting block in the crack. Overcoming this is supposedly the crux but actually gives an easy move on big holds. Phallic Tower had an insecure start, with all the action taking place at ankle damaging height, as is usual on this crag. So I was happy to remain passenger. Once the phallic tower is gained, the route goes easily up blocky limestone to the top. Marnie is top end HVS, not far off E1 5a. A hard start up an awkward wall leads to a step right into a lovely looking clean hanging groove. Once established in this, the route becomes easier - but the crack in the rather smooth groove is thin and not especially helpful. Very strong line though, and good climbing. Further left, beyond the gully, I led a semi-sports climb (two bolts) up the smooth wall right of the old HVS Exostosis. This was short, and lacked independence, but had a neat and quite technical (f6a+) move up the steep wall by the second bolt. A steep VS, Calefaction, held no memories for me, rather surprising. Quite tough for the grade, it goes up a crack to a small overhang. From a big undercut, you reach up for a nice jug, then expect to find another higher up. Instead, you have to make do with a flattish hold. I finished with a lead of an easy Severe up double cracks that I have done before.