Penmaenhead/Llanddulas climbing

Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: The Long Run Home (f6a:led), Go with the Flow (f6a:led), Statement of Twilight Years (f6b:led), Fixe Inox City (f6b+:sec*)
Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Lemon Crunch (f5:sec)
A frustrating evening dodging heavy showers. It had been dry all day in Colwyn Bay (but raining in Chester). Arriving at the crag, that all reversed - a heavy and prolonged shower saw us sheltering under trees then waiting for the routes to dry. Luckily, they dry quickly so we headed up to the Expressway wall. The 6a on the far left is even closer to the A55 than the other routes: to the point that you can't hear yourself think! It was a bit damp in places, but gives nice climbing up a steep wall on small juggy holds to a badly placed second clip which I shamelessly steadied myself on. From here, easier climbing up the arete leads to big flat holds and the finish. Nice rough rock, but not quite as good as the routes further right. We moved through the mud to the Flowstone Wall, where Hayley backed off the slabby 6a (Go with the Flow) in damp conditions. I led through, finding it more technical than I remembered from previous ascents, perhaps because of the damp (and associated muddy feet and hands). The crux involves a pinched little stalactite and the rock above is hard to read from below, but leads to a great pocketed hold. I was keen to push the grade a bit as the rock was drying, so went for the 6b (Statement of Twilight Years) further right. Very muddy at the base, so cleaning the shoes and hands became an issue. Some damp hindered progress too, all of which wasn't ideal as the first clip is a long way up. From a ledge though, some good holds and long reaches lead to the clip, then some excellent technical and fingery climbing often involving high steps and intricate footwork. It is never desperate or overly strenuous, just off-vertical and lowish in the 6b grade. A satisfying onsight lead up small positive edges and flat holds, moving right to the lower-off. I took the opportunity to try the 6b+ to its right, which goes quite easily to a desperate final move which spat me off. A far more disjointed line: not as good as the easier but more sustained and continuous 6b. Hayley then led the f5 as the rain started again, so we left the crag. It was very early, so we parked in Llanddulas and walked up to the cave, a venue I've only visited once before. It was wet, even the subterranean routes inside the cave were seeping. Further right, the wall of white limestone looked extremely inviting but was damp, bordering on wet. Hayley picked her way up Lemon Crunch at f5, an absorbing task in these conditions - wet and slippery all the way up, but well bolted for a change. I had a look at the steeper routes further right, but they were far too wet and by now it was raining again so we slithered down the muddy paths back to the car.