Thursday, May 28, 2015

Duirinish coast traverse (Ramasaig to Orbost)

A memorable and wonderful run: the opportunity to do this from our cottage in Glendale was too good to miss, to the extent that I was prepared to forego a morning in the mountains for it. It is tricky logistically, as both roadheads are remote to say the least. But we were staying just a few miles from Ramasaig, so K and E dropped me off there first thing in the morning (then went back to their warm beds), and I arranged to meet them three hours later in Orbost (although it didn't take me that long as the route, although 'up and down', was only 23k). Some say this is the best coastal walk in the British Isles: it is certainly right up there and works brilliantly as a run. Ramasaig was very remote, just one farmhouse. I ran a couple of miles south-east down the ultra-muddy Lon Ban (a track churned up by farm animals) to the deserted (cleared in 1830) village of Lorgill and a lonely small bay. From here, the coastal path was extremely tenuous - the opposite of those found in Cornwall, for example. I followed sheep tracks above the sea to a diversion inland at the Scaladal Burn. A long and boggy run back towards the sea led to a narrow path at last. The rest of the run to the headland was just stunning. Wonderfully wild scenery with weather to match: and firm, springy turf underfoot. A strong cross/tailwind blew a few sharp showers in, resulting in a spectacular skyscape which magnificently complemented the landscape. The cliffs were split at regular intervals by pronounced river valleys, the first of which - at Glen Dibidil - was quite hard to cross after recent rain, but the climbs out were never that long. The scenic highlight came shortly afterwards, the stunning stacks and arches below Glen Lorgasdal, with a Skye speciality, a waterfall plunging directly into the sea. After this, a classic geo/zawn, and a view of the sea stacks known as Macleod's Maidens. Here, the path tracks inland for a bit, below the little hill of Steineval. I lost the path at this point, ending up crashing through a nightmarish terrain of gorse and deep drainage channels, reliant on deer trails to get me out. Lots of skittish red deer in this area. Eventually, exhausting bog led to Idrigill where I found the path. Excellent running in a very sharp hail shower led past Brandarsaig Bay, with views over Loch Brachadale, to conifer forests. The sun came out at tranquil Loch Bharcasaig, which also has its own private mountain glen attached. Almost warm by the time I got to Orbost and met the family for a late breakfast in Dunvegan.

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