Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Big A55 Arete (f6a+:led), Pendulum Corner (f5+:sec), Agent Orange (f5+:led), Y Clip Aur (f6a:sec)
We replenished some of the energy lost on this morning's long run over the Carneddau with bacon sandwiches at the Aber cafe. It was windy at the Sychnant pass, and this crag is rather exposed, so probably not the ideal choice particularly as the lines we started with are the highest in the quarry, with great views over the sea and Orme. I'd tried to find the A55 arete line last year, but ended up on the 6c+ Whole of the Law instead! Steve, Hayley and I loosened our legs from the morning run on the longish walk over to the crag, and found the true arete line easily. It gives a lovely 22m climb, but as is often the case with the easier coastal sports routes, was overgraded. Nice moves over an overlap give access to a delicate and absorbing tapering slab. I stuck religiously to the arete, which might make it almost f6a, but it would very likely get 5+ at the most in Provence (certainly not the f6a+ or even f6b given). A great crux at the top on little holds, shuffling out to a sloping foothold on the arete itself. The wind was a problem, given the delicate nature of the climbing, and my fingers were very cold. Hayley seconded then led the obvious corner line of Pendulum Corner. Steve followed, and I went up with the rope above. Another strong line, a very enjoyable juggy romp with some light bridging as it steepens towards the top, although dramatically overgraded again (f4+ at the most if it was in France). We were getting cold, but the weather stayed dry (despite black clouds and a few spots of drizzle) so I led the obvious steep slab which runs below the A55 Arete. This gives another excellent easy route. Elegant climbing, even in the wind, with delightful moves up the steep slab on sharp holds and ledges (f5). We tried to get out of the wind on the smaller slab where we'd climbed last summer. I went for the 6c crack line by way of an appropriate finale to a long day. This goes easily up to a hard crux which was rendered desperate by the cold wind. I couldn't feel my fingers, which was a real problem as the crux depends on little finger jams and tiny two finger holds. Just ripples for the feet. I made two attempts, and reached the crucial flat hold to clip the final bolt on the second attempt. But my attempts to smear failed, and I slipped again. It should go reasonably easily in warmer and calmer weather though. We finished with the easy f6a to its left instead. A varied, enjoyable and tiring day.