Llanddulas climbing

Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Mind Light (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind Direct (f6b:sec), Poet Lariat (f6a:led), Not Runout Groove (f5+/6a:sec), Runout Groove (f6b:sec)
After our brief rain-soaked visit here last week, I realised there was some untapped potential so headed back there with Vic in high winds on a brief evening visit. Gusts up to 40mph, so we hoped that the cave and north-east aspect might protect us. It worked a treat, and it was largely calm as I led Mind Light, the first of two longish (20m) routes at f6a+ left of the main cave visible from the A55. The rock is a rather smooth white limestone, mottled with lichen. It runs to rather flat holds and the climbing is quite a bit harder and steeper than it looks from below. Mind Light takes a vague groove heading diagonally right on reasonable holds. Nice flowing climbing up to a good rest on a big footledge. Then steep moves go straight up to the finishing crack, where the position of the lower-off means that the crux is right at the top. I had to leave the crack and make a move or two on small holds up the smooth wall at the top to reach the chains. Satisfyingly smooth lead and a good route. Its companion, Karmic Wind, is a bit harder as it has a distinct crux at half height. After easy, quite juggy climbing low down, I misread the route and went too far right. It actually goes up to the left: a nice sequence of long reaches and small nicks for the feet. Had to steady myself as I moved across to the right line but did the moves cleanly and quickly. Easier and enjoyable climbing leads to the top. The direct route seemed easier, despite the grade, and I continued through with rope above on a private little eliminate of my own making: good training. The weather was clearing nicely, so we headed to the sunshine on the west-facing lower crag (Forgotten Sun area). Sadly, this meant we bore the brunt of the wind, although it was easing slightly. I've done a few routes here before, so led a 6a that I haven't ticked. It was a poor route. Flat holds and awkward climbing up to a mantel to a grassy ledge. Then more sloping handholds and polished footholds lead to a tricky finish. We finished off with the two lines up the groove. The indirect, which I've led before, is awkward and not very good, and takes a weird circuitous line to gain the obvious 'HVS' groove above. Runout Groove itself may be more technical, and gets a 6b grade, but feels easier and takes a more logical direct line up to the groove on small but less polished and more positive holds.