North Berwyn Way

Peaks: Pen Creigiau'r Barcud, Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain
Area: Berwyn
An excellent point to point run over remote terrain from Corwen to Llangollen. We left early in the morning, to find the hills above Llangollen clagged in but the hills further west clear - the result of the perfect eastern airflow which is leading to great conditions in the western fringes of the UK. The route crosses the A5 then gives a nice flat warm-up along the banks of the Dee - very pretty on an early May morning - to Cynwyd. From here, the route climbs steadily but never too steeply through Cynwyd forest towards the most remote parts of the Berwyn (indeed, much of the route was new to me although I have been up the hills before). Jez and I kept a decent pace going throughout and detoured to the top of Pen Creigiau'r Barcud - an obscure spot indeed - before rejoining the main, very runnable path towards Bwlch Cynwyd. Atmospheric conditions here, as the moist, misty air from the east hit the clearer air to the west. We ran to the top of Fferna in shifting mists, then it was into damp clag for the rest of the trip - heading east above the Ceiriog forest to Vivod (last visited during the Ceiriog Canter race). From Vivod, it is all downhill in a direct line to Llangollen, finishing with the very steep bridleway from Ffynnon Las. Less than 2.5 hours car-to-car: this would make an excellent loop combined with the Dee Valley Way, ideal ultra training. Refuelled stylishly with dosas and Keralan curry.

Moel Siabod walk

Peak: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
We would normally be in Scotland during Whit week, but this year it was unfeasible for numerous reasons, so my birthday treat (which has been a family hillwalk for the last few years - Creag Dubh last year, Ben Hiant in 2016) was going to have to be a tad more local. I felt Siabod would be ideal, so we did the classic circuit through the quarries and above Llyn y Foel. The weather was lovely first thing, but began to cloud over and become disappointingly hazy as we began the mild scramble up Ddaear Ddu, the gentle ridge leading to the summit. I thought they would have enjoyed this, but instead they found it a tedious grind! It does have the virtue of directness though, and moods improved as we ate our lunches on the summit. No real views, sadly, because of the haze. The family were then further boosted by the discovery that my promise of an easy descent was grounded in reality! Straight down to the cafe, and I ran back for the car before enjoying the cake.

Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Genesis (f6b+:led), Isabella Rose (f6a:led), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd (f6a+:led), Tegengle (f6a:sec)
I'd intended to embrace the steepness of Ty Newydd, but after thunderstorms yesterday it was wet when we arrived in the morning, steam rising from the temperate rainforest in this secluded valley. So it was on to plan b, which involved revisiting the Castle Slab. The weather was warm and sunny, and I started off by repeating Genesis, the hardest route here but absurdly overgraded at 6b+. It has lovely technical moves, crisp and crimpy, and a tricky crux, but it isn't sustained and would barely warrant 6a in Provence. Time was very limited, and I led the longer routes to the left (again) before Steve took the lead for Tegengle. After lunch, I ran from home to Chester for a family walk.

Mynydd Myfyr race

Race: Mynydd Myfyr hill race, Trefonen (4m/500ft)
Time/Position: 24.18 (8th from 50)
I knew I would suffer on this short race, having done no speedwork for months, but I also knew it would do me good with a couple of team events coming up as a break from the ultras. I'd never done it before, although I have done most of the events that take in the hills of the Oswestry hinterland: always very pleasant. This was no exception, as it leaves Trefonen up lanes and tracks to take in a longer loop round to the top of the miniature mountain of Mynydd Myfyr (the race remains on the 'English' side of the border throughout). From here, it descends through fields and lanes back to the finish outside the village pub. Warm and humid, although we avoided the thundery showers passing through.

Craig Ddu climbing

Crag: Craig Ddu, Nant Peris
Routes: Zig Zag (VS 4b:sec), Rift Wall (VS 4c,5a,4a:led p.1)
Always satisfying to grab some routes at this notoriously slimy, slow-drying crag, but it was particularly so today as it started to rain as we finished Rift Wall. Even better, both routes were new to me. In the past, I've done a few routes here on a few different visits to the crag, which looks so unappealing and black (as its name suggests) from the road. The left-side of the crag is particularly bad - the routes feel a tad disconcerting although the climbing is often fairly easy and the pocketed, juggy rock is actually excellent. Still, I had no great desire to lead Zig Zag, which Vic did in a single pitch. Sadly, he didn't reach the top so I had to climb to the first ledge to allow him to belay - all on instinct, we couldn't hear each other. Good juggy rock leads to a short groove and steep move to gain a vague diagonal ramp which leads to a wet and insecure section even after a long dry period. Easy climbing throughout and a worthwhile outing. Rift Wall is a better route, which nudges classic status and has three unusually varied pitches with interesting climbing throughout. I led the first, up a pocketed wall to a ledge, then a steep move up a shorter wall to gain a big flake and a traverse line leading back right. This is harder than it looks, but gives good, steady climbing - steep in places with the wall impending above - to gain a pinnacle and then a hidden slab further up on the right. The crux comes immediately afterwards, and Vic took this second pitch. A steep corner crack is tackled by tricky bridging moves to a high side pull, then better holds and fun, juggy climbing. It ends abruptly at a slab, after which the entire route eases (fortunately, as it was now raining - the end of the dry spell). The route ends with an exposed traverse left round an arete on huge flakey holds. The rain became steadier as we descended, so we called it a day, happy to tick off two rarely-in-condition minor Snowdonian classics.

Llanberis Slate climbing

Crag: Australia, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Cyber World Slate Heads (f6a+:led), Unnamed route (f5c:sec), Steps of Glory (f5:sec), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led)
An opportunity to stay at the perfectly located Vagabond's hut above Nant Peris, and glorious conditions as we arrived mid-afternoon. The hut is at the foot of Elidir Fawr and a lovely walk leads up to the slate quarries from its front door, through a notch to Twll Mawr. Slate was the obvious choice given the lateness of the hour, and we climbed up to the Sidings, quite high up in the spectacular bowl of Australia, somewhere I have climbed a lot, and one of my favourite spots in the quarries with its views across to Eilio and Snowdon. The 6a+ groove of Cyber World has a hard start. I borrowed a clip stick for the first bolt, then tenuous bridging and smearing leads eventually to a good hold. I may have taken an overly pure approach to the groove, as the right wall is easier. Bigger holds then lead up to the strenuous roof, unusual for slate, with excellent moves right to gain the steep arete: simultaneously balancey and strenuous. I also did the obvious line further right up the blunt arete to the same lower-off, as well as the easy f5 up the stepped ledges (done before). All four of us then walked up to the Skyline buttress. Vic led the f6a on the right, while I took Plastic Soldier immediately left. Simultaneously climbing at the same pace, both belayed by a different Steve: a recipe for confusion! I've done these routes before, they are excellent long pitches, 40 metres, well bolted, with delicate and elegant climbing in a wonderful location at the top of the quarries. The sun was setting over Anglesey as I topped out - only to find that I'd forgotten the belay plate! A memorable walk down as the sun dipped towards the Irish Sea, beautiful colours, with Crib Goch a deep orange as we arrived back at the hut.

Lucca run

Hard to imagine a more pleasant urban run than this. We were staying in the wonderful Tuscan town of Lucca for three nights, and it just happens to be encircled by 4.2km of perfectly preserved rennaissance walls. This was ideal for running, and scores of runners and cyclists were out enjoying the beautiful early morning weather as I set off on the second morning. I did the same route on Saturday morning: a mile warm-up from the hotel to the walls, then the loop, and then back to resume our exploration of Tuscan food culture. Today, I gave the walls a proper blast, and completed the entire 4.2km loop in 16 minutes - not too shabby considering my lack of speed at present. Then, it was off to the train station for a day trip through the hills to Florence, refuelling on tripe and lampreddotto.

Frogsmouth climbing

Crag: Frogsmouth Quarry, Runcorn
Routes: Green Slab (f4:led), Trilogy (f4+:led), Just After Fifty (f6a:led*), Just After Fifty (f6a:sec)
Climbing in Runcorn: I never thought I would see the day. This, however, is an unexpected and interesting venue - perhaps even unique as a bolted sandstone crag. It becomes obvious quite quickly that the routes are sandbags, uncompromising and meanly graded. The 6a's feel more like 6c's, or that was my impression on this very brief reccie. We kicked off on the easy slab furthest right, a secluded locale which gives a couple of warm-ups, even those are on rounded rock. The quarry itself is tree-lined, sheltered, and surprisingly pleasant as an evening venue in warm sunshine: not the urban horror show I'd expected. The steep side wall with sculpted features was steep and harder than it looks. I led Just After Fifty, with a hard and dynamic start, lunging for side pulls until a frieze of jugs and pockets is reached. The route doesn't relent, though, and steepens again to a flat hold with a steep finish. I rested a couple of times, briefly, on the lead: it felt more like 6b or even 6b+ to me, although the routes do have quite precise sequences and it may be that I'd missed the solutions. I did it again cleanly with rope above before we finished: my second time on sandstone in as many days, very unusual for me as this has never been my favourite style of climbing.

Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby, Cheshire
Routes: Wood's Climb (HVS 5a:sh), Wafer Wall (E2 5b:sh), Crack of Doom (S:sh), Little Light (MS:sh)
Another venue I visit only occasionally - intermittent visits going back to an early solo of Grooved Slab 27 years ago. It is an acquired taste which I have never quite acquired, and this short afternoon trip saw me shunt a few routes I haven't done before. Wood's Climb was the most notable, a minor classic of the area. This needs good conditions, but was still green, a bit dirty and insecure today despite the sunshine. As a result, the early crux moves over the first bulge felt hard on a loose shunt - shallow pockets for the feet, awkward side pulls, easier when tackled from the left. Above, the groove is easier but quite delicate initially until better holds on the left wall lead to the top. On the lower tier, Wafer Wall was also a bit green but gave lovely climbing on the shunt, delicate and balancy on tiny edges and pockets. The Crack of Doom is a horrible slimy thrutch up an off-width crack, grade irrelevant, and Little Light a more pleasant micro-route to the left. Finished with a jog round Helsby quarry, still a bit tired after Saturday.

Sandstone Trail challenge

Race: Sandstone Trail Ultra (34m/55k)
Time/Position: 5.08 (5th from 193)
There is always something particularly satisfying about a point-to-point race, and this famous route works really well as an informal short ultra: in essence, a south-north traverse of the whole of Cheshire, from Whitchurch over the Shropshire border to Frodsham in the far north of the county. I ran the better known short (17m) Sandstone race way back in 2008, but have wanted to do this event since it was revived in 2011. Given the emphasis I've placed on distance this year, the Sandstone was an essential addition (as the third ultra of five planned for 2018) and I got a place just after entries opened back in December (it sells out in a few hours). An early start from Frodsham and a bus to the start in the centre of Whitchurch in perfect May running weather - crystal clear and cool - was a nice beginning. The route starts along the Shropshire Union canal, a gentle warm-up and much more interesting than I'd expected it to be, past little pubs and pastoral scenery with birdsong in the early morning: all immensely tranquil and relaxed, a far cry from the usual frenetic road and fell racing. It then heads north away from the canal over endless fields towards the first CP at Bickleywood. I was easing into the race nicely, and picked the pace up for the next long section over fields to Hampton Heath with Larkton Hill in front, indicating a change of tone where the race loops past Maiden Castle and the scenery picks up. Excellent running over the escarpment of Bickerton Hill, above the crag where I bouldered this time last year - big views west to the Clwydians. This whole section is a delight, with wooded sections leading to unexpected views then ridgetop running before plunging back into woodland again. After CP2, the route curves round to take in the Peckforton Hills above Burwardsley before heading towards the prominent Beeston Tor. I remembered this section from the 'other' race, and it marked the half way point. I was still feeling pretty good, which was just as well as a long, flatter section follows - west of Tarporley heading north to Kelsall and eventually Delamere. I began to catch some of the runners who'd past me earlier on. I was pretty sure that Jez and three others would stay clear (well clear!) but I eventually found myself in front of the rest with one other chap who knew the route through Delamere well (although it is actually better marked now than it used to be - I had been a bit concerned about making minor errors here). From the exit at Manley Common (CP5) I knew the route very well - along the B5393 to cut north across a series of fields with views to the industry of the Mersey marking the natural conclusion of the trail. I use the final section above the Frodsham crags to the monument as a training run on my way home from Warrington, so with no concerns about the route I turned on the afterburners to secure fifth position. From the monument, I decided to get the pain of the final descent over with as quickly as possible, the scent of pie and peas in my nostrils! A good fell race-style plunge through the woods and into the tarmac of town, arriving at the Frodsham community centre in a reasonable 5.08. The third ultra of the year for me, and the most enjoyable yet: it reminded me of the two ultras I've done in previous years, the Laugavegur and the Manx, in that all are point-to-point events with a clear sense of purpose and direction.

Craig y Forwyn climbing

Crag: Craig y Forwyn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c:sec), Duchess (HVS 5a:sec), Heart Attack (HS 4b:led), Plas Newydd Groove (VS 4b:led)
Back again to the 'banned crag', our third visit spread over nine years, since limited access was supposedly granted (the crag has famously been banned since I started climbing in the late 80s). We kept it strictly 'legal', parking in the correct place and heading down to the right-hand side where Vic led the easy VS of Route 66 which is a nice route up a corner to a traverse which gains an obvious open (and vegetated) corner to the top. We did this in 2009, but were then shouted down from a neighbouring route despite the fact that this section has free access. No such problems this time, so we did the excellent Duchess. This gives straightforward low-end HVS climbing up the slabby face left of Route 66. The initial crack gives great moves on big holds to an airy traverse right, which gains a superb pocketed wall diagonally left to an easy finish up a broken groove. Good climb, particularly by the standards of UK trad limestone. We then moved across to the left-hand, shorter and less impressive. We visited here a few years ago and ticked the best routes. This time, I filled in two gaps at around the same grade, both following corner/groove lines. The HS involves a thrutchy back-and-foot corner to an easy pull round a bulge. The groove, further right, is a tad harder, up a corner to another bulge and continuation groove. Both routes nicely sustained at a gentle standard, although both required some excavation to find the best placements: they really do need more traffic.

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Jack the Jeffer (f6a+:led), A55 Hole Arete (f5:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:led*), Kiss my A55 Slab (f6c:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:sec), Y Clip Aur (f5c:sec), Agent Orange (f5c:led), Big A55 Arete (f6a+:sec)
One of the finest evening venues on the coast, with its distinctive red diorite glowing as the sun sets in the west. I've been here four or five times before, but never at this time of day, when it is undoubtedly at its best. It all meant a glorious few hours climbing, mostly on routes I've done before. Jack the Jeffer was an exception though, a new route taking the smooth slab left of the arete. Easy climbing leads to a nice thin slab with some delicate moves to gain an easier finish: overgraded, as is often the case with slate-style routes like this. Vic led the easy arete, then I had a bash at the 6b+ crack which I've failed on before. I failed on it again initially, but this time I did manage to dog my way up the hard section where the crack steepens. It is very awkward taken direct, small holds sloping the wrong way, although I eventually got my feet high enough to go for a more positive hold and got to the lower-off. Later, I did it entirely clean with rope above: climbing from the left allows for the awkward slopers to be used more effectively. We also did the f6c slab, at our technical limits. This goes easily into the corner, where thin moves up a closed crack with nothing for the feet eventually allow for a lunge to gain a horizontal crack on the wall above. A highly tenuous traverse follows: good climbing. After these big numbers, not ideal in the heat (it has been a hot and sunny bank holiday) we retreated further left where we did two routes I've done before - Agent Orange is particularly pleasant up a steepish wall on good holds, and the arete is enjoyable too. Still tired after yesterday's race, so this was more than enough for one weekend.

South Mynd Tour

Race: South Mynd Tour (14.6m/3800ft/AL)
Time/Position: 2.40.31 (10th from 40)
No plans to race this weekend, with the Sandstone Trail rapidly approaching, but Vic was heading down to Shropshire for this new event and it seemed ideal as a moderately long run two weeks after London. The weather was absolutely glorious, and I always enjoy my occasional trips to races across the Shropshire Hills. I've only done the classics like Long Mynd Valleys, Stretton Skyline and Cardington Cracker: but this race deliberately takes in the more obscure terrain south of the Long Mynd, with considerable route choice in places. As such, as well as the fact that I dialled my pace down deliberately with a view to next week's ultra, this was a tremendously enjoyable outing. We arrived in Little Stretton as the race was starting (!) having been delayed by traffic, but they kindly halted things as we got ready. The start sees runners heading in both directions to the top of Callow, the first checkpoint. I went up Ashes Hollow then cut left for the steep climb. I was third over the top but there were already five runners in front who'd taken the other route! From here, lovely running heading south on tracks and paths, crossing numerous side valleys, with a steep final descent towards Minton. All very scenic, as ever in these parts. From here, the route was marked for a long, runnable and very hot section up to the conifer forest above Priors Holt. This was probably the toughest part of the race and I was beginning to dehydrate. We emerged from the forest to take a long open descent towards the far south of the range, turning on to the last part of the ridge before a steep descent to Myndtown, a long way from Little Stretton. I lost contact with the two runners I'd been with at this point, and stopped for a welcome drink at this checkpoint. Above loomed the desperately steep Asterton Bank, which I cycled in 2014 and considered harder than the Col de Madeleine done in the same year! We moved back on to the ridge before that, though, following the Shropshire way back to the forest before a long leg with tricky nav up to the gliding club, then down west again to Prolley Moor. A final climb up Stanbatch and then it was the gentle ascent to the highpoint at Pole Bank. The final descent offered up another major route decision: I went for a compromise, probably unwisely, pelting down the ridge to Narnell's Rock before plunging steeply into the delightful Ashes Hollow, which I always enjoy. It was probably quicker to follow the ridge, but it didn't matter: the valley is so pretty and I thoroughly enjoyed the run in back to the finish at Little Stretton. I then enjoyed 20 minutes of relaxation in the most perfect imaginable May weather, bathing in the stream then lying on a knoll further up Ashes Hollow, before Vic, Steve and Emma crossed the finish line and we had a sunny pint in the Ragleth Inn.

Orme climbing

Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Reading Henry by the Road (f6a+:led), Years of Abuse (f6b+*:sec), Frontiers of Reality (f6a+:led), Absolute Beginners (E2 5c:sec)
Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Comeback Kid (f4:sec), Mynydd Marian variant (VS 4c:sec), Indian Summer (f6a+:led), Mynydd Marian (VS 4c:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Cakewalk Direct (f6b+:sec)
With a little more strength at my disposal than usual, we headed to the Orme for a quick session at the 'End of the Road' as the Bank Holiday crowds began to build. As always, Pen Trwyn packs a punch on even the easiest of routes, which are invariably harder than they look. The 6a+ at the right hand side had a patch of seepage, which didn't help, and my foot slipped off for the obvious crux move over a bulge. A good sidepull is a bit too low, so a hard move to an obvious flat hold is needed. I weighted the bolt, then did it again further right. Good rock, as is the 6b+ to its left, which I found desperate - a series of lunges to tiny calcite pinch holds until, eventually a horizontal hold is gained at the break. Further left is the Small Bore area, another short section of good rock right next to the road. Frontiers of Reality is not quite the route its rather pretentious name suggests - a smooth pocketed groove leads to a hard crux moving left past the second bolt on tenuous smears and bridging moves. Then, a steeper finish on good rock with good holds. To its left, an old trad route with an awkward bulging start to easier climbing up a curving crack. I then failed right at the top of another 6b, before calling a halt to the steepness and retreating to Castle Inn so Steve could do something. Glorious evening sunshine now, at last spring was arriving in time for the Bank Holiday. Warm rock as we romped up a few old favourites, as well as the crackline of Mynydd Marian, which I had no memory of doing before. Both School Mam and Cakewalk Direct were glorious in the sunshine - I've done both numerous times before but they now feel massively overgraded, possibly because extra bolts have been added. I would say School Mam is no more than f5.