Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Llanberis Slate climbing

Crag: Australia, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Cyber World Slate Heads (f6a+:led), Unnamed route (f5c:sec), Steps of Glory (f5:sec), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led)
An opportunity to stay at the perfectly located Vagabond's hut above Nant Peris, and glorious conditions as we arrived mid-afternoon. The hut is at the foot of Elidir Fawr and a lovely walk leads up to the slate quarries from its front door, through a notch to Twll Mawr. Slate was the obvious choice given the lateness of the hour, and we climbed up to the Sidings, quite high up in the spectacular bowl of Australia, somewhere I have climbed a lot, and one of my favourite spots in the quarries with its views across to Eilio and Snowdon. The 6a+ groove of Cyber World has a hard start. I borrowed a clip stick for the first bolt, then tenuous bridging and smearing leads eventually to a good hold. I may have taken an overly pure approach to the groove, as the right wall is easier. Bigger holds then lead up to the strenuous roof, unusual for slate, with excellent moves right to gain the steep arete: simultaneously balancey and strenuous. I also did the obvious line further right up the blunt arete to the same lower-off, as well as the easy f5 up the stepped ledges (done before). All four of us then walked up to the Skyline buttress. Vic led the f6a on the right, while I took Plastic Soldier immediately left. Simultaneously climbing at the same pace, both belayed by a different Steve: a recipe for confusion! I've done these routes before, they are excellent long pitches, 40 metres, well bolted, with delicate and elegant climbing in a wonderful location at the top of the quarries. The sun was setting over Anglesey as I topped out - only to find that I'd forgotten the belay plate! A memorable walk down as the sun dipped towards the Irish Sea, beautiful colours, with Crib Goch a deep orange as we arrived back at the hut.

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