Monday, May 28, 2018

Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Genesis (f6b+:led), Isabella Rose (f6a:led), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd (f6a+:led), Tegengle (f6a:sec)
I'd intended to embrace the steepness of Ty Newydd, but after thunderstorms yesterday it was wet when we arrived in the morning, steam rising from the temperate rainforest in this secluded valley. So it was on to plan b, which involved revisiting the Castle Slab. The weather was warm and sunny, and I started off by repeating Genesis, the hardest route here but absurdly overgraded at 6b+. It has lovely technical moves, crisp and crimpy, and a tricky crux, but it isn't sustained and would barely warrant 6a in Provence. Time was very limited, and I led the longer routes to the left (again) before Steve took the lead for Tegengle. After lunch, I ran from home to Chester for a family walk.

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