Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby, Cheshire
Routes: Wood's Climb (HVS 5a:sh), Wafer Wall (E2 5b:sh), Crack of Doom (S:sh), Little Light (MS:sh)
Another venue I visit only occasionally - intermittent visits going back to an early solo of Grooved Slab 27 years ago. It is an acquired taste which I have never quite acquired, and this short afternoon trip saw me shunt a few routes I haven't done before. Wood's Climb was the most notable, a minor classic of the area. This needs good conditions, but was still green, a bit dirty and insecure today despite the sunshine. As a result, the early crux moves over the first bulge felt hard on a loose shunt - shallow pockets for the feet, awkward side pulls, easier when tackled from the left. Above, the groove is easier but quite delicate initially until better holds on the left wall lead to the top. On the lower tier, Wafer Wall was also a bit green but gave lovely climbing on the shunt, delicate and balancy on tiny edges and pockets. The Crack of Doom is a horrible slimy thrutch up an off-width crack, grade irrelevant, and Little Light a more pleasant micro-route to the left. Finished with a jog round Helsby quarry, still a bit tired after Saturday.