Etna South

Peaks: Eruption Cone 2003, Crateri Barbagallo (2825m), Cratere Piano del Lago (2672m), Montagnola (2648m), Crateri Silvestri Inferior/Superior (2001m)

Area: Etna, Sicily

From our second base in Sicily, near the coast in Riposto, Etna looked magnificent. It totally dominates the landscape, smouldering away throughout our stay and remaining highly active. It is, in European terms, unique. Indeed, it is so compelling and essential that there was not a word of protest about our family trip - 16km from our flat, straight up a 1700 metre motoring climb to the main tourist base at Rifugio Sapienza on the south side. Explosions were immediately audible, as soon as we left the car, with the smoke billowing from the South East crater which you can't even see from the base. I originally planned to run to the top of the cable car and then join the family, but in the end I swallowed the outrageous cost, just glad to be in the mountains with the family - a rare thing in itself! From the cable car, it is a gradual uphill climb to the tourist highpoint at Torre Filosofo. Eve found it all a bit of a struggle, so I let them have a break half way up while I made a full frontal ascent of the 2003 eruption cone - this was a horrible struggle from this side, and utterly unnecessary as it brings you out opposite the Barbagallo crater where all the tourists go anyway (although, as it happens, it was a segment for which I recorded the 2nd quickest time). This far end of the crater was stained red and gave a stunning view of the SE crater high above, and a great run down powdery ash and lava, before we resumed our upward progress as a family. It steepens a little towards the end, and we had a short rest perched on lava while looking up at fumaroles erupting from vents and black smoke billowing out of the south-east crater. Some mist rolled in at the Torre Filosofo where there were hordes of tourists. I wanted to slip under the rope to run past the guided parties up to the crater, but Kate strongly advised against this - pointing out the criminal offence warnings, as well as the fact I would be back on my own in a few days. Instead, we walked up above the Crateri Barbagallo, where I realised my slog up the lava of the 2003 eruption cone was essentially pointless. The crater was pretty wonderful despite the tourists, with great views down to the baking plains 2700 metres below to the south. More explosions came from the top of Etna, as we completed the loop of the crater and descended powdery ash to make a little circuit - shoes full of ash and gravel. Further down, I extended the day a tad by running up Cratere Piano del Lago, which had superb views back over all the south side of Etna. In addition, the stunning Val del Bove came into view to the east - a huge valley with ancient pyroclastic flow, a deep black field of lava. All the little crater peaks were fascinating, and just extended the time in this unique landscape. The final one, Montagnola, had beautiful symmetry and I had it entirely to myself, remarkably given the hordes making their way up the normal track. We had a lunch of wild boar and caponata at the Rifugio Sapienza, and no coffee, after which I was in no state for a final 20 minute blast around the Silvestri craters, but did it anyway.