Cilcain Mountain Race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (Moel Famau)

Time/Position: 37.55 (11th from 101 [1st V50])

This is the race I have done most often - perhaps 14 times since my debut in 2003. I won the V40 trophy way back in 2010, so it was really nice to add the V50 Llys Fynydd shield this year (on arguably the oldest fell race in Wales). It neatly finished off a very satisfying (and rather lucky) trio of races for me over the past week: and I also managed 28k at marathon pace on Saturday. My time here was not great, in fact I think it is my second slowest ever on this route, but I felt OK and the places were settled quite early on in the climb with a group breaking away at the front and me with some stragglers. I kept the usual pace ticking over until the zigzags, where I walked until the fingerpost. A small crowd at the summit (reached in 21 minutes from the church, a minute down on my best), after which the descent went reasonably well, and I picked up a place towards the bottom. Good conditions, cloudy and cool.

Mid Cheshire 5k

Race: Mid Cheshire 5k

Time/Position: 16.52 (145 from 485)

If I'd been told I would record a PB aged 51, I would have considered it extremely unlikely. If I had then been told it would be at 5k, I would have considered it insane. Admittedly, this was only a PB by two seconds, but it was still a surprise to run this time 10 years after running 16.54 in Rhyl. There are contextual factors - first, the vaporfly shoes of course, although I have worn them before. Second, a ridiculously fast course. Third, a ridiculously strong field drawn from across the UK. Fourth, perfect conditions: cool and still. The race has a manic downhill start, and I recorded 5.05 for the first mile. Then comes a gradual climb before a levelling and then a downhill finish. My pace (3.21/km) was the same as my Trafford track 3k races earlier this year! This seems to open a range of possibilities for the rest of the year, and also puts me 4th on the all-time over 50 ranking list for North Wales.

Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Morgan's first time on Tryfan, taking me by surprise with the request. I first did the North Ridge just after my 18th birthday but never expected to be taking him up this year - lovely to be able to introduce him to another iconic Welsh mountain. He struggled for a little while on the lower section, with his heavy cold not helping with the steepness. We took a fairly direct line up three grooves towards the cannon, then avoided the North Tower on the right and climbing up into the mist. This was a shame, as we had no view and the forecast had been very promising. After a summit snack, we descended more or less direct to Bochlwyd, which I find far more comfortable than the route down to Bwlch Tryfan. Inevitably, the weather then cleared as we descended to Ogwen.

Llangollen fell race

Race: Llangollen fell race (17m/3000ft)

Time/Position: 2.20.55 (16th from 149 [1st V50])

Many years ago, I had the idea of a long fell/trail race from Llangollen heading up OD, over the mast to Gamelin, down to the Dee and back. I never acted on it, and this newish race (three years old) instead overcomes the problem of the busy road crossing at the top of the Horseshoe by doubling back from the mast at Cyrn y Brain. A big field, strong at the front, set off for the long climb from the school round the side of Dinas Bran to gain the Panorama path. The race then follows the Cylch Llangollen route above the crags. This gives superb running, generally slightly uphill, and I knew it well from my two previous completions of the Cylch. It was misty higher up, although it cleared above World's End where the route joins the grouse path (taken by the Cyrn y Brain race) up to the mast. This is the hardest climb on the route, although even this is runnable and not too steep. After a fairly quick first half, I began to tire a bit on the drag to the mast in mist and light drizzle and I was caught by a couple of other runners here. We then all had a very fast descent down to join the flagged OD path to the Minera road. I've done this many times but never quite as quick (just over 6 minute mile pace, pretty quick for a fell race). Then came the glorious return to Llangollen, retracing steps before dropping down through Craig Arthur to the OD path below the crags. I have always said this is the best path in NE Wales and it was great to go flat out on it today. The crux came as soon as we hit the tarmac climb back to the Panorama. After 15 miles this was always going to be hard. I'd been caught by another small group (some of whom I felt might be in my category) but after a gel I was fortunate to be able to pull away from them on the climb before the run-in round the side of Dinas Bran and down the steep road back to the school to finish first V50. A great race, hovering somewhere between fell and trail in tone - nicely runnable throughout.

Errigal

Peaks: Errigal

Area: Glenveagh, Donegal, Ireland

This was recently voted Ireland's most iconic mountain, but although we stayed in Church Hill nearby we never actually saw it during our five day mini-break. I mean that literally - we didn't even see the bottom of it, never mind the top. Still, having done the other contenders for that 'iconic' title, spread across the whole of Ireland, I felt obliged to make a rapid ascent first thing in the morning. It was great fun, setting out from the car park above Dunlewey in mist and constant fine drizzle. The route takes a boggy path beside a stream before cutting westwards to climb more steeply up to the scree that gives the peak its characteristic appearance - a quartzite  cone. The scree is steep throughout, and then the cone narrows to a ridge as the angle eases. I gained the first (and highest) summit in 34 minutes from the road. It was windy, cold and very wet, but I nipped across the short narrow ridge to the northern summit before descending into the wind: 55 minutes up and down, feeling much better now.

Lough Gartan loop

After a superb start to our Ulster holiday exploring the Causeway coast, Derry and Inishowen, we had a few nights in Church Hill on the edge of the beautiful Glenveagh national park. This was typical Donegal, wild and wet, and the weather conformed to the stereotype throughout our stay. After last month's slump in form, I have been feeling a little better and am very conscious I need to get some longer road runs in before London in October. This was a superb early morning outing from our accommodation. I headed through the little valley of the upper Leannan to gain the bottom of Lough Gartan at the bridge over the outflow. Then comes a wonderful lonely lane round the northwest of the lake, right up onto the wild hillside below An Liathan Mor. The cloud base was low, the drizzle more or less continuous, so it felt like running in the mountains, particularly as the tarmac road deteriorated to a grassy track towards the far end of the lough. The path continues along the Bulowba river on the edge of the Gaeltacht. Just as I was getting a bit concerned about finding the bridge in this remote area, it appeared, and I crossed it to gain the more substantial R254 which led along the southern fringe of the lake back to Church Hill. I added a few extra bits to take the run to half marathon length with 350m of climbing. As such, I was quite pleased to take 1.36 or so, feeling relaxed but good throughout.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 18.26 (6th from 368 [1st V50])

After a gap of 18 months or so, park runs have finally resumed in another welcome marker of post-Covid normality. Chester is the course I've done most often, although I've only ever been an occasional park runner! This was about half a minute down on my best for the course, but not too bad given how congested it all was at various points.

Lluc-Inca

My flight home was very late, so I had plenty of time to play with. On the other hand, my research suggested the annual pilgrimage from Palma was scheduled for this weekend, so I was unsure about the buses. I toyed with the idea of completing the GR221 to Pollenca, but in the end took an even more obvious option: the newly laid out GR222 to Inca. This proved a perfect way to finish the trip, very satisfying in that it marked a notable change in the landscape, leaving the Serra de Tramuntana mountains behind and heading to the baked plains of central Mallorca. Although a short day, it exceeded my expectations scenically, at least at first. The weather had changed, and after breakfast there was even a little hint of rain in the air: cool and cloudy initially as I headed back to the refuge and the Col de Batalla before heading south on the GR222. The route left the road and took a superb contouring dry stone path towards the Mirador Llangonnisa, which feels like a real gateway. Indeed, the two peaks of Escuder and Albellons even seem like a gateway. The Cami vel del Lluc is an ancient route, and feels like it, an obvious point of pilgrimage through this deep valley. Lower down, olive groves and terracing as the landscape starts to change. At Caimari, it changes completely, and takes a series of quiet lanes through pan flat terrain around Selva marked by ltitle goat farms, almond and orange groves. Eventually, the tower blocks and housing estates of Inca is reached: quite a sizeable town and a complete contrast. Inca is a working city in the centre of Mallorca, but has a railway station, and it was satisfying to end up there and get a cheap ticket to Palma, where I spent my remaining time walking and dining before the flight. 

Lluc peaks

Peaks: Puig Galileu (1195m), Puig de Massanella (1365m)

Area: Lluc, Mallorca

Massanella is probably the most interesting mountain in Mallorca. Puig Major attracts the eye, but is simpler in structure (and banned anyway - it is a military site). This was the best day of the trip, a superb traverse of the mountain that really showed off its best features. I started after breakfast at the monastery, glad again of the shade from the woodland that cloaks this side of the massif. The first objective is Puig Galileu, a distinctive satellite peak that is a popular outing in its own right. The dry stone route again helped gain height easily - I was back again on the GR221 - and skirted the northern slopes of Galileu before emerging from the treeline onto a superb contouring path through nice limestone scenery with tremendous views opening out to the sea. After some zigzags, a plateau is gained by some icehouses (this was an industry in the past, where the winter snows were kept and taken down to Palma - I saw similar things on Etna last year). The route then bends round and a side path leads up a broad limestone ridge to the summit of Puig Galileu. Great views to Puig Roig and Puig Tomir, yesterday's mountain. Ahead the route to Massanella was obvious. I dropped down to skirt the head of another valley (Comafreda), passing acres of the endemic jerusalem sage, and then climbed up steeply to the Col des Prat, an obvious crossroads. A delightful breeze took the edge of the temperatures again. From the col, a short descent on the GR221 leads to the unmarked contouring path taken by the eastern route up Massanella. This is not the normal route, and involves some scrambling. It gave a great ascent, contouring the shadows below the crags that drop down from the SW ridge. Some slabs and shelves gain another col in direct sunlight, and then some really enjoyable easy scrambling up the SW ridge. This was rather like the Gribin, although rough limestone, and the ridge became well defined, narrow even, higher up. The summit is a classic limestone plateau, with three distinct little summits. The top is rocky, with superb views in all directions: particularly beautiful towards Cuber and the Soller peaks of two days ago. The combination of forests, sea and mountains is stunning: crystal clarity too, with the breeze keeping it that way. The descent was complex, as I wasn't entirely sure where the normal route went. Initially, a sea of limestone is confusing, but I followed by nose along the ridge to the east and eventually picked up the trail. This heads away from the Lluc direction initially, and is steep and scrambly for a while. Soon, holm oak woodland is gained but it was surprisingly involved and lengthy to gain the obvious wooded Col de sa Linea: this is visible for a long time but took ages to reach, traversing above Font Avenc to a crossroads, after which the route finally heads in the Lluc direction and eventually joins a farm track. I kept a decent pace up for this, and joined the GR222 much lower down. From here, a jog led to the road at the Col de Batalla, a cyclist's crossing point. I toyed with the idea of lunch at the cafe, but decided to run straight back to Lluc to complete a superbly satisfying 16k/1100m circuit, a full traverse of the massif in three hours. Luckily, the bakery was still open for lunch, as was the swimming pool. A cold beer by the pool, looking back up to the summit of Galileu: it was very pleasant indeed.

Puig Tomir

Peaks: Puig Tomir (1104m)

Area: Lluc, Mallorca

This was something of a bonus squeezed into the end of the day. A fine mountain, one of Mallorca's best, made possible only because of a change of plan. Originally, I had intended to do a huge section of the GR221 from Soller to Lluc today, but the need to do a Covid test changed that. Instead, I took the test, got the results, had a great breakfast at the hotel, then got the bus to Lluc instead. This all took some time, as the mountain road past Cuber and Escorca is extremely narrow, so it was mid-afternoon by the time I set off from Lluc, having checked in to my austere monastic cell on the top floor. Lluc is in a fabulous location: tranquil, surrounded by mountains. They do take some getting to, however, so it was a fairly long trek to gain the lower slopes of Tomir. Delightful, however, with a breeze taking the edge of the temperatures as I followed the GR221 up to the refuge and Mirador de Moli. Then heading north-east below Puig de ses Covasses to the Coll de Bosc Gran above Binifaldo. As the name suggests, these slopes are heavily wooded with holm oak, and were an absolute delight - really beautiful and incredibly tranquil. At the next pass, the Col des Pedregarat, the climb up Puig Tomir begins. The peak towered above, and looks steep and rocky from below. It was also obvious that it was going to get very hot very quickly, with the limestone gleaming in hot afternoon sunshine. As soon as I left the treeline, a battering ensued: it was unpleasantly hot for a while on this side of Tomir, absolutely windless in a south-facing amphitheatre of rock, all the ingredients were there. A traverse below crags eventually gains a weakness in the form of a shallow gully. Some mild scrambling up this, quite enjoyable, gains easier ground at the edge of the plateau. This narrows towards an obvious rockband, which gave a lovely little pitch - protected with cables and rungs although it was very simple. Above, a welcome breeze and easy ground up to an obvious col with an ancient snow collector's hut. Superb views across the north of Mallorca (the first time I'd seen it). These got even better from the final section, as the ridge turns left and leads very enjoyably to the summit. It narrows towards the top, and the views down to the Binfaldo valley, across to Puig Roig and the Med were superb. To the north, I could see the Formentor peninsula and Pollenca, with the whole of Mallorca laid out like a map. Then, three black vultures came into view, wheeling around the summit with the sun glinting off Puig Major: absolute magic. The descent, although merely retracing steps, was really enjoyable as the sun dropped. Quite beautiful through the holm oak woodland lower down, the low sun diffused by the trees.

Soller peaks

Peaks: Es Cornador Gran (953m), Es Sementer Gran (1013m), Puig de l'Ofre (1091m)

Area: Soller, Mallorca

These mountains dominate the end of the Soller valley and are obvious objectives. The best and most unique thing about them, however, is the approach up the wonderful Cami del Barranc. This is a giant cleft, a classic limestone gorge, but so big and so useful to local inhabitants that it has been settled and cultivated for centuries. The steep sides are terraced for olive groves and the most stunning section of the dry stone route runs up it via hundreds of hairpins, an amazing piece of engineering. I left my hotel by the old train station in Soller early to avoid the heat as best I could. A brisk walk/slow jog led to the gentrified village of Biniarix which marks the start of the Cami del Barranc. The atmosphere in the early morning was quite beautiful - tranquil and memorable with the occasional spring and a little birdsong the only sound. Above, the big limestone walls of Cornador, my objective, caught the sun. Despite the length of the climb, the amazing engineering of the ancient path makes for an enjoyable and fairly quick ascent deep within the gorge. Near the top, I branched off on a narrow and hard-to-follow path to Cornador Gran, the dominant peak from Soller (but actually just the end of a longer ridge). The path became more distinct higher up, now in direct sunshine. The landscape changes completely from the confines of the Barranc to the beautiful high pasture and typical mountain limestone landscape higher up. I love mountain limestone landscapes so was thoroughly enjoying myself as I branched off for the summit of Cornador Gran, a stunning viewpoint poised directly above Soller with views of the Med beyond. To the north, I saw the higher peaks of Mallorca from the classic viewpoint, where Major and Massanella rise above the turqoise Cuber reservoir. A little bothy was just below the summit, nicely shady. It seemed obvious to me that the next peak on the ridge (not in my guidebook) was higher, so I crossed the col and headed up it via rough limestone shells on a cairned route. This turned out to be Sementer Gran, considerably higher and a more distinct summit. I took a slightly different route back to rejoin the GR221 at the top of the Barranc where I had a snack in the shade. The route then passses a high pasture finca (a 'hafod' I suppose) and leads through shady woodland to the Col del Ofre. From here, I wanted to climb Puig de l'Ofre, a nicely proportioned pyramidal peak visible from much of the island (although it is quite low). I initially tried a track leading to the north, but retreated, then found a path round the other side which led to a small col. From here, a steep climb with some scrambling led up to a rock band, a short traverse, and a polished path to the summit. Clouds had boiled up by now, and the views down to Soller were even better. I headed back down the normal route then tried to link up with my initial foray on the northern side to traverse the base of the mountain. After a while I became uneasy about my position, as I had expected to curve back round to the col. I couldn't afford to take any chances with my water running low so had no alternative but to retrace my steps and eventually rejoin the GR221. Lower down, the Barranc was so magical that I was glad to descend it by retracing my steps (and I knew there was spring water half way down). It was very hot by the time I got to Biniarix - I went straight through and managed to get a superb bocadillo from a tiny bar on the Soller backstreets, which I ate in my room for lunch whilst watching the Olympics. Just over 17k, 1800m or so.

Deia-Soller

My original plan had been to do the GR221 across Mallorca. However, my flight was originally booked for May, a much more sensible time to visit. After several cancellations, it was pushed to a much less sensible time of year! This, combined with Covid procedures, necessitated a change of plan. So, after a late flight and night in Palma, I got the bus to Deia and did this short GR221 leg deploying the same 'fastpacking' technique I used on Offa's Dyke. It was an ideal easy introduction, leaving the village and heading down towards the coast before looping round on the characteristic 'dry stone paths' of Mallorca. These are wonderful and soon become very familiar. Pine woodland leads to a longish climb above Llucalcari with superb views over the Med. This brought me out on the Cami del Castello to a large Finca with superb onward views over the higher peaks like Puig de l'Ofre and Puig Major. It was a little cloudy, which helped depress the temperatures although it was still a tad sweaty. After the Finca, the route gradually descended through delightful woodland along the Cami del Rost and into Soller. Last time I was here, it was April and icy sleet was falling. A contrast today, warm sunshine as I ploughed into a bakery and got some Mallorcan meat pies for lunch in the square.

Fairy Freckled Cow

Race: Fairy Freckled Cow/Llyn Alwen (11k)

Time/Position: 42.51 (12th from 95 [2nd V50])

This was a little more encouraging than recent races, as I wasn't too far down on my previous times for this great race. I've done it 5 or 6 times, and this year was a little shorter than normal (the dam at the end was not included). I struggled initially towards the far end of the lake, but kept it going reasonably well for the main climb which ascends the lonely hillside from the remote far end of Alwen up towards Mwdwl Eithin. This is always the crux of the race, however, and I did slow a bit for the run-in. I was passed by an Eryri runner, also in my category, who finished 20 seconds ahead. Good conditions today: fairly cool and dull with some light drizzle at times. I came within a few seconds of winning this race a few years ago - no chance of that today!