Area: Soller, Mallorca
These mountains dominate the end of the Soller valley and are obvious objectives. The best and most unique thing about them, however, is the approach up the wonderful Cami del Barranc. This is a giant cleft, a classic limestone gorge, but so big and so useful to local inhabitants that it has been settled and cultivated for centuries. The steep sides are terraced for olive groves and the most stunning section of the dry stone route runs up it via hundreds of hairpins, an amazing piece of engineering. I left my hotel by the old train station in Soller early to avoid the heat as best I could. A brisk walk/slow jog led to the gentrified village of Biniarix which marks the start of the Cami del Barranc. The atmosphere in the early morning was quite beautiful - tranquil and memorable with the occasional spring and a little birdsong the only sound. Above, the big limestone walls of Cornador, my objective, caught the sun. Despite the length of the climb, the amazing engineering of the ancient path makes for an enjoyable and fairly quick ascent deep within the gorge. Near the top, I branched off on a narrow and hard-to-follow path to Cornador Gran, the dominant peak from Soller (but actually just the end of a longer ridge). The path became more distinct higher up, now in direct sunshine. The landscape changes completely from the confines of the Barranc to the beautiful high pasture and typical mountain limestone landscape higher up. I love mountain limestone landscapes so was thoroughly enjoying myself as I branched off for the summit of Cornador Gran, a stunning viewpoint poised directly above Soller with views of the Med beyond. To the north, I saw the higher peaks of Mallorca from the classic viewpoint, where Major and Massanella rise above the turqoise Cuber reservoir. A little bothy was just below the summit, nicely shady. It seemed obvious to me that the next peak on the ridge (not in my guidebook) was higher, so I crossed the col and headed up it via rough limestone shells on a cairned route. This turned out to be Sementer Gran, considerably higher and a more distinct summit. I took a slightly different route back to rejoin the GR221 at the top of the Barranc where I had a snack in the shade. The route then passses a high pasture finca (a 'hafod' I suppose) and leads through shady woodland to the Col del Ofre. From here, I wanted to climb Puig de l'Ofre, a nicely proportioned pyramidal peak visible from much of the island (although it is quite low). I initially tried a track leading to the north, but retreated, then found a path round the other side which led to a small col. From here, a steep climb with some scrambling led up to a rock band, a short traverse, and a polished path to the summit. Clouds had boiled up by now, and the views down to Soller were even better. I headed back down the normal route then tried to link up with my initial foray on the northern side to traverse the base of the mountain. After a while I became uneasy about my position, as I had expected to curve back round to the col. I couldn't afford to take any chances with my water running low so had no alternative but to retrace my steps and eventually rejoin the GR221. Lower down, the Barranc was so magical that I was glad to descend it by retracing my steps (and I knew there was spring water half way down). It was very hot by the time I got to Biniarix - I went straight through and managed to get a superb bocadillo from a tiny bar on the Soller backstreets, which I ate in my room for lunch whilst watching the Olympics. Just over 17k, 1800m or so.
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