Elidir Fawr/Penmaenbach

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

I had a strange yen to plough up Elidir Fawr from Nant Peris. Arguably the worst slog in Snowdonia, I have only ever done it in Ras Elidir, and my two completions of the 3000s (2017 and 1992!). Nobody does this for pleasure, as it climbs from the village past the Vagabonds hut then relentlessly hunts down the summit. It gets even worse after the stream is crossed, after which the route is just a heads-down slog to the top. I reached the true summit in around 47 minutes from the tarmac, which is less than impressive considering I ran 69 minutes in the race a few years ago. I took the looping race descent route, down to the bwlch, then contouring round the head of Cwm Dudodyn cutting down before the climb to Y Garn. I remember this as superb and exhilarating in the race, as it was getting dark and was hugely atmospheric, but today I just felt tired and jaded after recent exertions. This meant that I found it more awkward than I should have done, narrow in places, rocky in others, and it took 34 minutes from summit to village via the lip of the cwm. On the way back to Conwy, I took in Penmaenbach arete (not really an arete, a ridge at best) for only the second ever time. A mild trespass to avoid the campsite, and then the enjoyable ridge, which seems to be getting more traffic these days and is clean and well-travelled. It is a fun line, and I took 14 minutes to gain the contouring path below Penmaenbach. A hobbling descent through the ferns and woods followed.

Cilcain Mountain Race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race

Time/Position: 39.03 (16th from 178 [2nd V50])

Still the race I have done most often (it is now 19 years since my debut) and this was by far my worst ever time and finishing position. Inevitable, really, given yesterday's 10k, which itself felt like an effort too far. The time was lost on the climb today: after a quick initial plunge I really struggled and was a couple of minutes down on my usual ascent pace. The final push was pretty desperate, although I revived a little for the descent - just under 14 minutes to the road. Dreadful haul up the road, although didn't lose any more places. Failed to retain the Llys Fynydd V50 shield, unsurprisingly.

Ellesmere 10k

Race: Ellesmere 10k

Time/Position: 36.21 (9th from 521 [1st V50])

It's never nice to be hanging on for dear life in a 10k, and I usually pride myself on my pacing. I was aiming to run around 35.50 today, or a bit quicker, considering the 17.00 I ran at Capenhurst. It was going fairly well, bang on target until the last 2-3k, where the pace began to slip as the route takes a gravel path along the side of the canal. I only entered the evening before so my preparation was hardly ideal and I never felt entirely comfortable. I have never done this race before, however, and it is a nice varied course which runs through Ellesmere to gain the open country and little lanes around Cross. Then the route loops back to the banks of The Mere itself before finishing along the Llangollen Canal towpath, where I began to crumble. I was in 6th or 7th place for much of the race, but lost two places in the last few hundred metres as my pace dropped - still a full two minutes slower than my PB set 10 years ago.

Foel Goch (Bala)

Peaks: Foel Goch, Garnedd Fawr

Area: Arenig/Bala

An excellent choice for anti-social types on a Bank Holiday, these hills will never be crowded no matter how many staycationers arrive. Indeed, I have only been up them once before, and that was back in the 1990s. They are fairly unpleasant in places underfoot, although a decent bridleway runs north-eastwards from Pentre farm (gained by a quiet road from Cefn-ddwysarn). This is overgrown but civilised to the open hill, then becomes boggy and hard to follow below Orddu. As a result, I just ploughed directly north-west up the steep side of Foel Goch. I was trying to save energy so this wasn't ideal. Extensive views out to Arenig and over to the Clwydians, these are fairly isolated little hills. Yet another sunny and dry day - in a normal year the terrain would be even more arduous. An excellent path leads along the bumpy vague ridge to Garnedd Fawr, certainly one of Wales's more obscure summits! I missed out Moel Emoel in favour of a direct descent to Nant Cefn Coch, an untravelled and predictably boggy locale! A blend of deep tussocks and sinking bog eventually led to a track back to the farm and the quiet lane to Cefn-ddwysarn (1:45 for the morning loop).

Round the Bays 30k

Behind with the marathon training, as ever. This was a nice loop, from Bodlondeb to Deganwy via the coast path through the tiring dunes to the West Shore. Then clockwise round the Orme, always a pleasure, all the way along the Llandudno prom to the sharp climb over the Little Orme. Then past Llandrillo and down to Colwyn Bay before returning via Station Road in Mochdre, quiet lanes to Junction and back.

Zaan banks/Texel loop

The Hague half marathon fell victim to the Netherlands' stringent Covid policies, so I was left with a spare Schipol flight. I finally got a small window in which to take it - so decided to do a half marathon of my choosing, fitting neatly into my London schedule. Staying in Zaandam, I ran up the west bank of the river - disappointingly constrained with desirable residences hogging the waterfront. Crossing the river at the Lassiestraat bridge, things improved considerably as I took the east bank to the famous Zaanse Schans, a well-known tourist attraction and a stereotypical Dutch landscape. It is actually slightly contrived, as the windmills (which are genuine) were moved here from around the region, but it was still delightful, and the watery polder landscape, superb cycling infrastructure and ultra-neat farmland all gave off the spirit of place I always seek. A long detour round the inlet of De Poel, then it was down the Kalf to Oostzijde, which hugs the Zaan back towards my hotel (24k, so a little longer than planned). After breakfast, I took the train to Den Helder and the ferry to Texel. I had expected this to be pleasant but it was a brilliant little trip. I hired a Dutch-style bike for pennies and had a wonderful afternoon on a gentle 36km loop around the south of the island, hugging the coast to Oudeschild, then through excellent bird habitat to the delightful village of Oosterend. From here I cut inland and crossed the island from east to west through De Waal and Den Burg towards the Duinen van Texel national park, mature dappled woodland and a delightful contrast. Then it was back via Den Hoorn, a wonderful tranquil atmosphere in beautiful warm sunshine. As everybody knows, Dutch cycling culture and infrastructure is remarkable - but it was brilliant to actually experience it. I have only ever ridden a heavy sit-up-and-beg bike once, and that was on Orkney last year (hard work with the hills!). This was simple and delightful, the obvious solution to so many problems!

Two Hillforts

Race: Two Hillforts (8.8m/2600ft)

Time/Position: 1.16.03 (4th from 42)

There have been various versions of this race over the years, from the old 'Tavern Trial' onwards. This is only the second time I have done this particular version, but it is really good and does make the most of the northern Clwydians. From Llangynhafal, a steep climb takes the breath away before a fast contouring section north to gain another steep climb which eventually leads to the contouring path which heads towards the Moel Arthur col. Then comes the horribly steep climb straight up the front of Arthur, followed by an awkwardly narrow descent until the blast down towards Pen y Cloddiau. Rather than taking this direct via OD, the race heads up the gentler track, which still proves quite a lungbuster and goes on for longer than you might think. A steep kink up to the fortifications and then the top of Pen y Cloddiau after which the navigation is easy: follow OD all the way to the Cilcain col. This final section went reasonably well (I can remember blowing on it in the past) and I felt fairly strong by my standards. I was closing on fourth place for the final section along OD and finally went past him on the last descent back to the farm, which is grassy and very quick. A couple of minutes quicker than when I last did the race, although that was in 2019, and I wasn't racing much at the time.

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k

Time/Position: 17.00 (27th from 310 [3rd V50])

This has always been something of a blue-riband local event, although it has become more competitive over the years. I ran 17.04 on this course in 2012, 17.07 in 2017, and 16.59 in 2010 - so this was very much on trend! I was breaking in the new Alphafly shoes, probably not ideal over a short, twisting course, but they served me pretty well as I felt OK over the very familiar course. My splits were pleasingly consistent although a 3.19 final kilometre suggested I may have been able to squeeze a little more out, and it was a very competitive veterans field! The finish is marginally downhill, and it has always been a fast course, but Mid-Cheshire (now my PB) is definitely even faster.

Gribin-Pyg

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

Although only short, the Gribin gives a nice scramble in the mould of Crib Goch and is an excellent way of avoiding the Snowdon summer crowds, which in recent years have risen to extraordinary levels. I don't really see why I should be pushed off the mountain by those crowds, so deploy numerous strategies to make it possible to enjoy it in relative solitude even in summer (the 'Cwm Glas horseshoe', for example). This combination of routes via the Gribin is another method, first parking in Dyffryn Mymbyr and cycling the 3k to Pen y Pass - thereby saving £20 and no end of hassle, superbly satisfying. The parking changes do seem to have been successful in reducing some of the traffic and lowering the numbers, which is good. I set off at a steady jogging pace along the Miners track, reaching the green hut at Llyn Llydaw in 11 minutes. A drought and heatwave has been building for days, and after the causeway around Llydaw I experienced some of the hottest weather I have known in 35 years in the Snowdonian mountains. Baking hot up the steep track to Glaslyn, where the views of Clogwyn y Garnedd were superb - no haze, perfect clarity, deep blue sky. A mild ridge then leads to a shoulder and then the meat of the scramble up the crest of the Gribin with great views to Lliwedd and the Trinities. Just over 10 minutes to Bwlch y Saethau, after which I took the Pedol Peris direct route up the East Ridge. I had been feeling good until this point, despite a long and tiring week, but my quads exploded as I took the steep scrambly direct ascent to Snowdon summit, really slowing dramatically and therefore just failing to break the hour from PyP to summit. After a short break battling the crowds (not too bad by the standards of recent years) and enjoying the very familiar view, I took the Pyg track all the way back to PyP, not the quickest way down due to the rather awkward terrain and my tiredness compounded this - 46 minutes from summit to PyP. A five minute downhill ride back to the car.

Deeside ORGP

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix (race 3)

Time/Position: 25.51 (3rd from 58 [1st V50])

Although a little tired after my exploits on the coast path, I felt fine once the race started. And although my time was a minute slower than race 1 (I was away for race 2), the course was almost 400 metres longer, with a bigger haul out from the meadowland towards CQ. Jez and I had a great battle through the meadow, then I pulled away a bit for the flat stretch along the Dee towards the Blue Bridge. A sharp headwind made the return a little tricky, but I stayed in third place, well behind the two front runners.

Caerfai-Broad Haven (PCP, day 4)

I camped more or less on the coast path itself at Caerfai, because the wind forced me behind the only available sheltering wall, so was back in the groove almost immediately after striking camp. The going was fairly easy towards Solva, with the character of the coast gradually changing. As it becomes less dramatic, it also becomes more anglicised as the Landsker line is approached, or perhaps that is just my feverish imagination. Whatever, as the coast straightens out at the end of St Bride's Bay, the place names become English and the landscape much softer. First though, came a long detour around Solva's famous natural harbour, a calm inlet protected from the elements. It is a delightful place, Cornish in tone, and I wandered through to cross the base before climbing up onto the Gribin ridge (another feature with a more famous northern equivalent!). This led to a delightfully secluded bay, and then the twin peninsulars of Dinas Fawr and Dinas Fach. Easy terrain over coastal fields then leads to the deeply incised Cwm Bach which drops, quite steeply, down to the edge of the vast Newgale Sands - a huge beach which stretches for miles. This is the point at which the walk really changes, scenically and culturally. I had a congealed breakfast at the Duke of Edinburgh pub, diabolical but necessary and I only really had myself to blame for arriving five minutes before the end of the buffet. It did perk me up, however, and I escaped the crowds (who concentrate on one part of Newgale) for the gentler walking over the undulating cliff-tops of Maidenhall Point towards the hidden hamlets of Nolton Haven and Druidston Haven. I had a tent-drying break above the latter in yet more glorious sunshine (hot and humid now, a slight haze in the air). Then it was down to the superb beach and Broad Haven and a much-anticipated swim (the only appropriate coda to the trip, 72 hours after starting) before meeting Stee and Dilys for a very welcome lift all the way back to my car in St Dogmaels.

Trefin-Caerfai (PCP, day 3)

A far more leisurely start this morning, with breakfast in the sunshine outside 'Maesgwyn', then a gentle walk with Stee and Norman taking obscure footpaths down to rejoin the coast path at Abereiddi. We headed off in opposite directions, and one of the highlights of the whole route came next for me: the wild section of coast along the northern part of St David's peninsula all the way to the popular beach at Whitesands. This was superb throughout: more glorious weather, although the temperatures were now nudging up towards 'heatwave' territory. Still, the clarity of light remained as I weaved along the complex coastline below the distinctive 'tor' of Penberry, one of several on the peninsula. This entire section is wild and wonderful, especially in this perfect weather, almost mesmerising. I continued above Porth Gwyn, to Penllechwen, then cut inland down a green valley below Carn Llidi at the end of the peninsula to new views over Ramsey sound to the Bishop islands and out to the Atlantic. Porth Meigan and Lleuog were beautiful sandy beaches and here the character of the day changed utterly - from solo isolation to sudden tourist crowds. This reaches a peak at Whitesands, a famous beach, but it did at least mean I could refuel on a hot pie for lunch! I was eager to get back to the peace and quiet of the path, however, and the crowds die away again for the wonderful section hugging Ramsey Sound, another highlight. This whole section is stunning, looking out over Ramsey past St Justinian and Pen dal Aderyn round the headland, very complex and twisting terrain/ The views and aspect then change again - looking south now over St Brides Bay all the way down to Skomer, which I visited as a child - a formative experience that I have never forgotten. The cliff scenery then gets even better (but not so tranquil, popular with day walkers) over hidden Porthlysgi to the inlet of Porth Clais (little islands like Carreg Fran offshore). I decided not to camp there, but continued to Caerfai where I felt it would be prudent to camp to ensure I could eat in St Davids, despite a relatively short 30k day.

Pen Dinas-Trefin (PCP, day 2)

A fairly early start was necessary with a longish day in prospect and an empty tummy. My plan was to take a semi-direct line to Fishguard where I was sure I could source a decent breakfast. Pwllgwaelod in the early morning was beautiful, a velvet sea and backlit cliffs: complete tranquility. The clifftop walk that follows was similar, nobody around and multiple hidden coves. From the deepest inlet, Aber Bach, I cut diagonally inland to the curiously named Tre-wrach, then along a fine bridleway to the main road into Lower Town. This was briefly unpleasant, but quick, and brought me out in Fishguard just as the Popty cafe opened! An absolutely superb full breakfast followed, just the perfect way to replenish my diminished reserves. Through Penyraber where I stocked up for the crossing of Strumble Head, which is rather like the first section yesterday in the sense that there is no water and no shops. After the port at Goodwick, a steep tarmac climb through Harbour Village finally sees off the jarring urban 'sprawl'. Then comes a delightful section - completely empty and completely tranquil with the sea like a millpond. The only sound, apart from insects, came as the Rosslare ferry passed, along with a little fishing boat. Initially, this section looks out over Fishguard Bay to Dinas Island before swinging west to pass numerous little headlands like Pen Anglas and, most notably, Carreg Wastad. This shares its name with a famous Nant Peris crag, but is also the site of the 'last invasion', when French convicts landed in 1797. North of here, I cut the corner to Porthsychan and had a half hour break with a truly wonderful view of Ynys Meicell, Carreg Onnen and the Strumble Head lighthouse. Seals groaning below. Undoubtedly one of the best sections of the PCP follows, tracing remote coves and crags above Pwll Arian and Pen Brush to the big cliffs around Pwll Deri and new views along the St David's peninsula. Pwll Deri is particularly atmospheric, heathery cliffs dropping down to the sea, and dramatic steep coves. I had suggested a time of 4-5pm to meet Stee, so took another little direct line through Trefasser to emerge at Aber Bach, then through a wooded glade to the open beach of Aber Mawr (and the first people I had seen for some time!). Another very quiet section of the coast path follows, very hot now in mid-afternoon, through to Trwyn Llwynog and Ynys y Castell where I cut inland to the hidden village of Abercastle and a much needed tap in the toilet block (the first water since Goodwick, although I purchased a one litre bottle there so was just about OK). Then came an easy finish along the lane to a pint of Cwtch in the Ship, Trefin, and a luxurious and enjoyable (non-camping) evening with the Jones's: 36km/1100m.

St Dogmaels-Pen Dinas (PCP, day 1)

After enjoying Offa's Dyke so much last year, I decided more or less on a whim to do the best half of the Pembrokeshire coast path 'fastpacking' in a forecast heatwave, and combine it with a long overdue visit to Stee and Jenny in Trefin (around half way). I arrived in St Dogmaels in the early afternoon, and set off for what is considered the hardest and most committing stretch of the entire coast path around 1pm, carrying a muesli bar and half a litre of water. 'Fastpacking' is a horrible neologism, but it does encapsulate my approach, using my lightweight mountain marathon kit and moving quickly - sac reduced now to 3.8kg or so, not including food or water. A steep tarmac climb above Poppit Sands and the mouth of the Teifi eventually gains Cemaes Head. Turning the corner, the entire coastline down to Stumble Head stretches out in front, an enticing prospect. The weather was superb - hot but with a cooling breeze along the cliffs, a sea that was almost purple, and a deep blue cloudless sky. That weather stayed exactly like that for the 72 hours I spent on my route down to Broadhaven. As with OD, the trick is to embrace the spirit, the philosophy of the route, to reset the 'mindset'. In the case of the PCP, it is necessary to appreciate the basic point that the path religiously hugs the coastline throughout, and that coastline is of course complex. So, nothing is direct, nothing is quick. From Cemaes, the highpoint of the route is reached, hundreds of feet above the sea and the impressive cliffs of Pen yr Afr. The heather was in full bloom, adding another colour note to the beautiful scenery. The twisted rocks of Pwllygranant follow, stunning views throughout, superb cliff scenery with the path often close to the edge and lots of steepish ascents. These never last too long, however, and soon the haven of Ceibwr Bay is reached, a hidden, tranquil inlet. Later on comes Pwll y Wrach (witches cauldron), a classic blow-hole caused by the collapse of a sea arch, appearing to be an isolated lagoon. Then comes the final 10k stretch to Newport, right out along the edge of the cliffs again with Pen Dinas and Strumble coming visibly closer. Round the final headland, dehydrated now and ready for a feed and drink in Newport. It took a long time to reach, however, and the path detours to cross the Nevern. By now I was 16 miles into the route but had made decent time - I had fish and chips in mind, but Newport is more highbrow than that (I was last here for the Preseli Beast race a few years ago). Instead, a basic feed and a lot of fluid from the spar had to suffice before I embarked on the final section as the sun dropped. This was still delightful, albeit less spectacular, through Parrog as the sun dropped in front of me, the more twists and turns towards Cwm yr Eglwys after passing numerous hidden coves. I improvised a route up the hillside, more or less guessing the line towards the campsite I'd seen from below. I pitched in an empty corner (the rest of the site was occupied by big camper vans) and enjoyed my inadequate pasta salad after a walk to see if the pub at Pwllgwaelod was open (it wasn't): 32km/1100m.

Delamere parkrun

'Race': Delamere parkrun

Time/Position: 18.10 (2nd from 199 [1st V50])

This must be one of the longest established parkruns in the region, so it is a little odd that I've never got round to it before. This version is a lovely route, from the big car park at Old Pale, then down towards Blakemere Moss, an attractive wooded lake which the course loops around in its entirety. All of this is off road, but on big tracks with just the occasional mild incline. Hot weather (the start of a heatwave) so it was nice to have some shade. I passed a couple of younger lads at the dappled far end of the lake but finished just behind the young (female) runner in front.

Moelwynion north

Peaks: Moel Siabod, Carnedd y Cribau, Cerrig Cochion, Ysgafell Wen north

Area: Moelwynion, Eryri

I did this stretch numerous times, in both directions, in 2019. The reasons for this foolishness were complicated, but it's always quite hard work and not particularly enjoyable (in my view) between Cribau and Cochion. It is a great way to escape the crowds, however, which is why I took it today. I did a version of this loop the week before doing the Fellsman in April 2019:  resulting in a huge amount of mileage and climbing that week. From PyB, I took the route through the woods to the standard Siabod ascent, taking it easy to reach the summit in 46 minutes. Some light rain, then the long and excellent descent to Carnedd y Cribau, with its superb views over Snowdon. The sun then came out for the long and frustrating haul over the lumpy, boggy country towards Cerrig Cochion - constant hidden dips and the occasional waist-deep bog. By Llyn Edno, things improve: it is one of Snowdonia's loveliest lakes, and the terrain becomes kinder for the jog up the northern end of Ysgafell Wen, a complex triple summit. I dropped down to Llynau'r Cwn for a snack and stream dip, as the cloud finally peeled away from Snowdon directly across the valley. Then it was down towards Llyn Llagi via an untrodden spur. North of the stream down to Nantmor (obscure but lovely, I've done it once or twice before), then down the excellent bridleway that cuts across to Gwynant. Along the lake, and then the minor road which eventually gives way to the stony power station track which used to provide a hard descent on the Snowdonia marathon. It is even harder this way round! At the top, it emerges near Pen y Gwryd, after which I'd planned to climb the Miners Track onto the Glyder ridge at Foel Goch. I was too tired, however, so jogged very slowly down Dyffryn Mymbyr instead, which was distinctly unpleasant - 31km/1500m.