Trefin-Caerfai (PCP, day 3)

A far more leisurely start this morning, with breakfast in the sunshine outside 'Maesgwyn', then a gentle walk with Stee and Norman taking obscure footpaths down to rejoin the coast path at Abereiddi. We headed off in opposite directions, and one of the highlights of the whole route came next for me: the wild section of coast along the northern part of St David's peninsula all the way to the popular beach at Whitesands. This was superb throughout: more glorious weather, although the temperatures were now nudging up towards 'heatwave' territory. Still, the clarity of light remained as I weaved along the complex coastline below the distinctive 'tor' of Penberry, one of several on the peninsula. This entire section is wild and wonderful, especially in this perfect weather, almost mesmerising. I continued above Porth Gwyn, to Penllechwen, then cut inland down a green valley below Carn Llidi at the end of the peninsula to new views over Ramsey sound to the Bishop islands and out to the Atlantic. Porth Meigan and Lleuog were beautiful sandy beaches and here the character of the day changed utterly - from solo isolation to sudden tourist crowds. This reaches a peak at Whitesands, a famous beach, but it did at least mean I could refuel on a hot pie for lunch! I was eager to get back to the peace and quiet of the path, however, and the crowds die away again for the wonderful section hugging Ramsey Sound, another highlight. This whole section is stunning, looking out over Ramsey past St Justinian and Pen dal Aderyn round the headland, very complex and twisting terrain/ The views and aspect then change again - looking south now over St Brides Bay all the way down to Skomer, which I visited as a child - a formative experience that I have never forgotten. The cliff scenery then gets even better (but not so tranquil, popular with day walkers) over hidden Porthlysgi to the inlet of Porth Clais (little islands like Carreg Fran offshore). I decided not to camp there, but continued to Caerfai where I felt it would be prudent to camp to ensure I could eat in St Davids, despite a relatively short 30k day.