I camped more or less on the coast path itself at Caerfai, because the wind forced me behind the only available sheltering wall, so was back in the groove almost immediately after striking camp. The going was fairly easy towards Solva, with the character of the coast gradually changing. As it becomes less dramatic, it also becomes more anglicised as the Landsker line is approached, or perhaps that is just my feverish imagination. Whatever, as the coast straightens out at the end of St Bride's Bay, the place names become English and the landscape much softer. First though, came a long detour around Solva's famous natural harbour, a calm inlet protected from the elements. It is a delightful place, Cornish in tone, and I wandered through to cross the base before climbing up onto the Gribin ridge (another feature with a more famous northern equivalent!). This led to a delightfully secluded bay, and then the twin peninsulars of Dinas Fawr and Dinas Fach. Easy terrain over coastal fields then leads to the deeply incised Cwm Bach which drops, quite steeply, down to the edge of the vast Newgale Sands - a huge beach which stretches for miles. This is the point at which the walk really changes, scenically and culturally. I had a congealed breakfast at the Duke of Edinburgh pub, diabolical but necessary and I only really had myself to blame for arriving five minutes before the end of the buffet. It did perk me up, however, and I escaped the crowds (who concentrate on one part of Newgale) for the gentler walking over the undulating cliff-tops of Maidenhall Point towards the hidden hamlets of Nolton Haven and Druidston Haven. I had a tent-drying break above the latter in yet more glorious sunshine (hot and humid now, a slight haze in the air). Then it was down to the superb beach and Broad Haven and a much-anticipated swim (the only appropriate coda to the trip, 72 hours after starting) before meeting Stee and Dilys for a very welcome lift all the way back to my car in St Dogmaels.
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