Pen Dinas-Trefin (PCP, day 2)

A fairly early start was necessary with a longish day in prospect and an empty tummy. My plan was to take a semi-direct line to Fishguard where I was sure I could source a decent breakfast. Pwllgwaelod in the early morning was beautiful, a velvet sea and backlit cliffs: complete tranquility. The clifftop walk that follows was similar, nobody around and multiple hidden coves. From the deepest inlet, Aber Bach, I cut diagonally inland to the curiously named Tre-wrach, then along a fine bridleway to the main road into Lower Town. This was briefly unpleasant, but quick, and brought me out in Fishguard just as the Popty cafe opened! An absolutely superb full breakfast followed, just the perfect way to replenish my diminished reserves. Through Penyraber where I stocked up for the crossing of Strumble Head, which is rather like the first section yesterday in the sense that there is no water and no shops. After the port at Goodwick, a steep tarmac climb through Harbour Village finally sees off the jarring urban 'sprawl'. Then comes a delightful section - completely empty and completely tranquil with the sea like a millpond. The only sound, apart from insects, came as the Rosslare ferry passed, along with a little fishing boat. Initially, this section looks out over Fishguard Bay to Dinas Island before swinging west to pass numerous little headlands like Pen Anglas and, most notably, Carreg Wastad. This shares its name with a famous Nant Peris crag, but is also the site of the 'last invasion', when French convicts landed in 1797. North of here, I cut the corner to Porthsychan and had a half hour break with a truly wonderful view of Ynys Meicell, Carreg Onnen and the Strumble Head lighthouse. Seals groaning below. Undoubtedly one of the best sections of the PCP follows, tracing remote coves and crags above Pwll Arian and Pen Brush to the big cliffs around Pwll Deri and new views along the St David's peninsula. Pwll Deri is particularly atmospheric, heathery cliffs dropping down to the sea, and dramatic steep coves. I had suggested a time of 4-5pm to meet Stee, so took another little direct line through Trefasser to emerge at Aber Bach, then through a wooded glade to the open beach of Aber Mawr (and the first people I had seen for some time!). Another very quiet section of the coast path follows, very hot now in mid-afternoon, through to Trwyn Llwynog and Ynys y Castell where I cut inland to the hidden village of Abercastle and a much needed tap in the toilet block (the first water since Goodwick, although I purchased a one litre bottle there so was just about OK). Then came an easy finish along the lane to a pint of Cwtch in the Ship, Trefin, and a luxurious and enjoyable (non-camping) evening with the Jones's: 36km/1100m.