Area: Glen Affric, Scotland
I'm calling this the Gleann nam Fiadh horseshoe, as that seems the obvious descriptor, and it seemed to me a very obvious route from the map (and in execution) although it doesn't seem to be much of a 'thing'. Whatever, I have wanted to visit Glen Affric for years, and it didn't disappoint when I arrived in stunning afternoon sunshine yesterday. It is remote and exquisite, a wonderful combination, bang in the centre of northern Scotland and a fairly long drive, even from the Great Glen let alone anywhere else. A pleasant night in the van besides Loch Beinn a'Mheadhoin, certainly one of the most beautiful glens in Scotland: but it was a misty start, and quite midgy, as I had my coffee and porridge waiting for it to clear. As I took the initial track up beside the river towards Toll Creagach it began to clear and by the time the track diminishes to a boggy and vague stalkers path the day was crystal clear and the scenery stunning, the perfect May day in the Highlands with a rushing stream and superb array of peaks ahead. A steep climb gains the rocky south-east ridge which leads via some little slabby steps, all very pleasant, to a whaleback plateau. Not a well defined summit, although the views now open out. I was in two minds initially, whether to have an easy day taking in the lump of Toll a'Creagach to the east or whether to go for the big peaks further west. From the summit, the choice was obvious as the view west towards Carn Eige and Mam Sodhail was up there with the very best - an obviously perfect ridge looping around the Fiadh. Just one tiny problem - although I was above a cloud bank to the north, quite spectacular, mist was also gathering around the higher summits and the crystal blue clarity had gone. This didn't seem much of a problem as the escape route into the glen was obvious, so I started west along the broad ridge - absolutely superb over a range of subsidiary peaks. First down to the pronounced Garth Bhealach, cloud lapping up from the northern corries, then up the very steep climb to the pyramidal (from this angle) An Leth-Chreag. The mist was down, but it was only light and as I traversed Dhomnuill it lifted again to allow me to really enjoy the mild pinnacles and very mild scrambling at the head of the valley. It became clear that the route to Carn Eige was a lot easier than I had expected, with less height loss and gain. Instead, an easy traverse on springy grass even had me running across before a sharp climb to the top of Carn Eige, the highest mountain north of the Great Glen and a long way from my van! The easy theme continued across to its sister peak Mam Sodhail, which is far more shapely. In fact it looked superb from the col, given scale by its dramatic north-east face above lonely Loch Uaine: a fabulous location. An 11 minute slog gained the summit of Mam Sodhail with mist draping the upper slopes. Stunning views down to Gleann a'Choilich to the west. Then came the next bonus of the day - a contrasting 5km ridge that led all the way down the other arm of the horseshoe to distant Sgurr na Lapaich. This was just wonderful, and the weather started clearing again - blue skies above, mist burning away. Two smaller tops led to a final climb up Sgurr na Lapaich: all runnable, mostly on springy turf, although I was conscious of saving energy so just 'moved quickly' instead. Huge views west towards Sgurr nan Ceathramanh and others. Lapaich is quite impressive from the east, in fact it is the most notable peak in the view from my lakeside camp. The descent kinks south down the ridge and was just as enjoyable as the route from Sodhail until it reached the boggy base, after which a long wet trot finally got me to a stream and my first drink of the day! Spent a while rehydrating, then ate, replenishing me for the last section down a track to Affric lodge and then a hot haul in very warm sunshine along empty tarmac back to the van. A bath in the loch, then down to Cannich after a fairly big day - well over 26k, 1620m.
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