Area: Loch Quoich, Scotland
I have a vivid memory of looking across to these peaks from the South Glen Shiel ridge 12 years ago, with a stunning cloud inversion filling the valley between. It was an equally stunning morning today, to drive from Tyndrum through Glencoe to Fort William: deep blue skies and crystal clarity. However, after breakfast in the Fort, just north I ran into a huge bank of cloud, initially making me regret not sticking to my original plan of the hills around Loch Arkaig. My thinking was that I wanted an easier day so as not to wipe myself out before getting further north. This was why I headed down the 25 mile single track road from Invergarry to Kinloch Hourn, a road I had often driven past but never taken. It starts off as a rather dull rural drive but as it gets further west towards Loch Quoich the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic and increasingly archetypal 'west', and at this point the thick cloud began to clear. By the time I finally set off, the sky was deep blue. I had difficulty locating the correct stalkers path and wrongly followed a track initially before righting myself and finding the superb path, which winds up the hillside soon giving superb views out over the loch towards the edge of Knoydart, the spire of Sgurr na Ciche instantly recognisable. This view dominated the day, although closely followed by the wall of the South Glen Shiel ridge. The path eventually leads to the broad ridge of Drum Seiliach with a mild sense of exposure poised above empty valleys, that containing the River Loyne was particularly notable, deep and empty. Then a steep final climb to a forepeak and then the main summit of Gleouraich. One early walker was there but he soon left and as usual I had a Scottish peak to myself: truly wonderful expansive views in all directions. The rest of the ridge to Mialaich was hugely enjoyable, scampering over the rocks to a steep descent to a marked col, wild cwms to the north, dropping steeply to the glen. Then a surprisingly lengthy haul to the top of Spidean Mialaich, not quite as special because the ground then levels out to the east (although Ben Tee remained notable with its pointed profile). I jogged the descent, very easy on springy turf down to a boggy section west of Loch Fearna before heading direct to the stream for a drink as I was badly dehydrated. From here, a track makes downward progress even easier - 2.45 for the circuit. I felt rather tired, strangely, and was in a dilemma as to what to do with the rest of the day, not wanting to batter myself too much. So after eating I lay down in the van with the doors open, gazing upwards to the slopes of Gleouraich from a superb parking spot above the lake when I spied an eagle. My binoculars were right next to me, so I could see the distinctive white tail that made it only my second ever white-tailed sea eagle. And then another came into view, wheeling around then heading west towards the finest scenery. I had originally planned to spend the night here, and it was a stunning spot, but in tbe end I cycled up to the pass above Kinloch Hourn seeing nothing at all on the 50 minute ride, no cars or people. After a bath in the loch, I spent some time just drinking in this fantastic location before opting to make the long drive to Glen Affric via chips in Fort Augustus.
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