Plo del Naou

Peaks: Plo del Naou (1754m)

Area: Aspin, Pyrenees

The strange name of this summit is presumably a prime example of the local dialect. This was just a short 8k jog from the Col d'Aspin but a wonderful way to finish the trip. There seemed the prospect of getting above the mist (the col was enveloped as I had my coffee) a classic Pyrenees cloud inversion, but I couldn't have hoped for a more perfect set of circumstances. I took a jogging approach and was up in less than 30 minutes. A broad ridge leads to a grassy and delightful summit ridge and I could see telltale signs of the sun trying to break through the mist. Just below the top, I broke through. A stunning bank of cloud over the Aure valley with the high peaks of the Bearn and the Spanish frontier crystal clear above: quite incredible. I have been lucky enough to experience cloud inversions quite a few times, and can still remember the thrill when we broke through the mist on our first visit to the Pyrenees in 1993, but it is always wonderful and memorable. Ahead, the Montfaucon was impressive, with a picturesque flock of sheep with their clanging bells in the foreground. I descended towards the Horquette and then picked up a contouring path to complete a little loop and rejoin the ascent above the col. Then came the drive home, in one continuous and lengthy journey (two short naps!). Including the Auvergne, the French trip encompassed 20 different summits, six of which were Pyrenean 3000ers done in the last week. It also encompassed seven (or 6.5) major Tour cols (Aspin, Tourmalet, Port, Lers, Azet, Ancizan) and four minor ones earlier in the trip. More notably, between 11,000 and 12,000 metres of elevation gain (on foot and bike) since last Wednesday, perhaps 38,000ft.

Horquettes d'Ancizan ride

I really was tiring by now, and had sealed the bike away in the van. But after a magnificent lunch and coffee I began to think I might have one more col in me. Imprudent, perhaps, but at least I sensibly chose the easiest option - the Horquettes d'Ancizan from the Payolle side, which I felt would be the kind of tranquil and relatively gentle climb I could handle in my compromised state. The Horquettes essentially runs parallel to the Aspin and is a more recent addition to the Tour but I had loved my visits to the meadows of Payolle and my night on the Col d'Aspin so thought a revisit would make a great coda to the trip. So I drove over and started up through the meadows of Payolle. As it was mid-afternoon, it was now very hot and the sweat poured off me as the road kicked up through beautiful woodland. Above the woods, the sun beat down and I had to stop briefly - even on relatively gentle slopes. Above, a hairpin looked steep. As it happened, it got easier above the hairpin and I had something of a second wind. Then came a short but welcome descent to the upper pastures with fabulous views up to the Pic de Montfaucon. Ultra tranquil riding remained, steepish in places but generally steady up to the Horquette itself (apparently a local name for 'col'). Nice views down to the valleys on both sides, and up to the gentle hill I planned to do tomorrow morning (Plo del Naou). A relaxed and comfortable descent down to a rather muddy and shallow river bath before heading back up to the Col d'Aspin, where I coincidentally found myself parked right next to Sian and Dafydd Roberts from Coed y Brenin.

Peyresourde-Col d'Azet ride

Back on the bike this morning. I was spoiled for choice, as you might expect in one of the global epicentres of cycling. As I kept seeing TdF signs for the Col d'Azet I thought I should incorporate it. After another nice night between the two rivers in Fabian, I started off after coffee and croissant in St Lary for an easy, relaxing start along the valley to Arreau. I turned right towards the Peyresourde, a famous TdF col, frequently used, and another one of my target climbs. This takes some time to properly get going, and by the time it did I was already tiring. It is not particularly hard, but after the first third of it (or a little more), just below Loudervielle, I took a side road towards Genos. Magnificent views up to the mountains at the head of the valley, with the Col d'Azet obviously a hard and steep climb to get back to St Lary. My decision to curtail the Peyresourde was vindicated as I was clearly starting to feel the effects of the last few days. As it turned out, Col d'Azet is notoriously steep, an archetypal Pyrenean col. From Genos it looms up fairly savagely, with consistently steep and tight 10% hairpins that go on for some time, multiple switch-backs. Fortunately, however, it is fairly short, and after the treeline it levelled out a little. The view back to the Peyresourde was exhilarating, and the col itself was a superb place to be in yet more glorious weather. It is a very well defined high col, with views to the mountains ahead and down to the deep valleys on both sides. After a break, I pelted down to St Lary, another wonderful experience retracing Tour steps. This starts fast but then has some very awkwardly steep and tight sections as it passes through little villages (like Azet itself) en route back to St Lary. In time for lunch again - this time it was tuna cake, pork with pepper sauce and profiteroles. This restored enough energy for me to at least consider an additional late afternoon ride.

Neouville peaks

Peaks: Pic d'Estaragne (3006m), Pic de Campbieil (3173m), Pic de Lentilla (3157m)

Area: Neouville Massif, Pyrenees

The concept behind this Pyrenees trip was to alternate cycling with basic mountaineering, and so it was up into the Neouville Massif for a bit of the latter this morning, a corner of the Pyrenees that I had never visited. I knew in advance that the obvious problem with the concept is that the two disciplines are just too similar (in terms of physical demands) to allow for much recovery. When I have done mountain trips with Vic or Steve we typically alternate mountaineering days with low level rock climbing, which is a much more sensible balance. That said, I felt fine today, not too tired at all despite the altitude. I drove from Fabian up into the Neouville Massif, a stunningly beautiful national park, in stupendous weather - almost impossible clarity of light, zero haze and not a cloud in the sky. I had coffee and a light breakfast from my van (I parked well below Lac Long right next to the start of the route up the first peak, Pic d'Estarange) and then started off. The route heads into the deep valley of the Ruisseau d'Estarange with Pic Mechant towering above. A delightful place of wild flowers, streams and meadows. At the top, a steep climb led into a hidden upper valley, a much wilder place with empty bowls of rock and moraines all around. A complex climb led up to the right, steeply, before traversing back left below rather loose looking walls (I saw a small rock fall at one point). The Estaragne ridge line was high above, but the route continued traversing until climbing awkward scree and a few slabby scrambling steps to move back right to gain a very shallow arete up to the summit. At the other end of the arete, the Grand Pic des Alharisses was impressive although lower. From the summit of Estarange, a stupendous view of the next peak, Campbieil, with multi-coloured rock and a classical pyramidal shape plunging down to verdant meadows far below. Memorable. It was also clearly much higher, and in fact the descent to the col was far easier than it looked, with minimal descent (although very steep). At the col, an easy contouring path takes the scree well to the right of the NE ridge crest. It then moves left to a smooth slab, fortunately at a very gentle angle. Above this, steep but easy terrain led with surprising ease to the summit. With a circuit of this kind I was mildly concerned about the nature of the descent on the other side of Campbieil but on the summit all concerns evaporated as it was obvious that fairly gentle scree slopes led down towards Lac Long. And the view was just superb - a grandstand seat looking towards the Haute Pyrenees, some of the famous peaks I had climbed in the past clearly identifiable. Monte Perdido (which I haven't done) behind the instantly recognisable cleft of the Breche du Roland and Le Taillon (which I have). Further right, the Vignemale and Balaitous resplendent, both of which I can remember as if it was yesterday (actually it was 1997). Perfect clarity and a really memorable view, as were the plunging cliffs down to Pla d'Adet and the valley I'd been staying in. Across the upper scree bowl, Pic Long looked magnificent but also loose! I decided to nip across to the subsidiary peak of Lentilla for a view back to Campbieil. Also brilliant, with even closer views of the high mountains across the valley and into Spain. As with Verdeguer, it is often the case that these satellite peaks look notable from a certain valley or viewpoint and therefore have their own names and identity despite the ease with which they can be included. After a snack I commenced the scree descent which was as easy and quick as it looked. But it still proved deceptive. As the ex-glacial bowl levelled out, the route became complex and hard to follow. It eventually led to a beautiful meadow with coalescing streams and then a drop to gain amazing views of Lac Long which was the deepest blue imaginable, Pic de Neouville rising above into a flawless blue sky. Lac Long was then a constant and almost impossibly scenic companion as the return route negotiated it by traversing high above it. This often proves trickier than expected and that was definitely the case today - it was long, complex and arduous with lots of rises and drops to gain the far side of the lake where the car park is. It took far longer than expected and was a tiring way to finish, especially as I still had some way to go back to the van. It was very busy up in the massif by now, but fortunately I was just in time for a late lunch back down in Fabian and refuelled splendidly on Pyrenean Garbure soup, Duck parmentier and fromage blanc with myrtilles.

Col du Tourmalet-Col d'Aspin ride

Hallowed ground, the greatest arena in sport (and I say that having been to the Maracana this year!) so this was quite an exciting day and one of my main objectives. I spent a memorable night at the Col d'Aspin itself watching the mist roll in and the weather constantly changing (with an artisan beer from neaby Arreau, which was en fete yesterday evening celebrating the local gateau a la broche). The roads were still damp this morning so I took my time down to my intended base for the two climbs in St Marie de Campan. After a snack, I set off up the Tourmalet, always an electrifying moment as you pass the TdF signpost detailing the climb's statistics. Around 3k in, I felt the telltale thud of my back wheel bottoming out: puncture! I had been carrying a little sac on these climbs so changed into trainers and plodded all the way back to the van for repairs as I wanted to do the climb properly from the bottom. I had never actually repaired a puncture on the Scott, but it went OK and then I set off again, a little later than planned but the advantage was that the weather was now absolutely stunning, crystal clarity after yesterday's rain and not too hot. The Tourmalet starts fairly mildly, and soon gives glimpses of what is to come. And then it comes, relentless 8% slopes through the forest to a steep and lengthy hairpin, followed by a horrible grippy drag up to the ski resort of La Mongie (the Tourmalet road surface was OK but not like the manicured perfection of the Col d'Aspin, which I was expecting). The 2km below La Mongie was, for me, the crux, and the fairly cruel gearing on the Scott really showed itself. I say this because, in my two previous TdF col cycling trips. (2011 and 2014) I never really found anything difficult, including the Ventoux, Madeleine, Galibier and so on, partly because I rode them on my old triple. The Scott had nothing like this to drop into, and so it was pretty hard. After a short easier section, the road kicks up again through La Mongie and stays at 9% or so for the final 4-5k up the exposed and oft-photographed hairpins to the summit (90m). The col itself is just a magical place for a Tour fan (I have watched it every year since it came onto C4 in the 1980s). Hundreds of cyclists from all over the world, immediate recognition. The perfect clarity of the weather helped too - it is over 2200m high, so the views were stunning, particularly down the western side which is probably more scenic and very slightly easier (although I believe there isn't much in it). I should perhaps have gone into the iconic cafe but instead took numerous photos and then took on the rapid descent all the way down to St Marie de Campan. I had a bite to eat at the van and then started out in the opposite direction towards the Col d'Aspin. This is definitively the easier side of the Aspin, but it is still a long climb, initially up shallow gradients to the beautiful pastures around Payolle. Above Payolle, it actually gets quite steep - over 10% in several places - and was obviously tiring after the Tourmalet. The surface was the best I have ever experienced, however, perfect smooth tarmac, and the climb is not that long. It was great to pull onto the col, particularly as I had spent the night there - and the contrast from mist and drizzle to dazzling sunshine was incredible. I am not a confident descender but even I was able to open out a little on the way back to St Marie, and it was pretty fast lower down. I decided to stop for a late lunch near the pastures of Payolle, where there are numerous restaurants and had local ham and cheese in a panini while I gazed up to the Horquettes d'Ancizan. I then drove down to the Aure valley, later than planned, and spent the night near Fabian rather than up in the Neouville as I'd intended. This wasn't an issue, however, as I had a lovely evening picnic in a perfect campsite away from the road (to the Bielsa border tunnel, very close) with rivers on both sides.

Pic de Fontanette

Peaks: Pic de Fontanette (2002m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

I was planning to camp at the Port de Lers but storms were forecast so I prudently stayed in the valley at the same site near the bouldering. The storms took a while to arrive, and it is always disorientating in steep-sided valleys as you can often see near-constant lightning but not hear very much unless it is right overhead. It was a fairly interrupted night's sleep, and the temperature had dropped by almost 25c when I woke up (not an exaggeration, mid 30s to single figures). It was dank and misty in Vicdessos so I had cafe, local yoghurt and croissant at a delightful deli while I pondered my options. The rain had stopped, so I decided to go back up the Port de Lers and see how far I could get on the grassy ridge that lies above, where three peaks seemed doable. It was still dry when I set off in thermals, shell, hat and gloves - all quite a contrast! I was soon into the mist, and it felt like the Beacons or Yorkshire Dales. Higher up, it started to rain, horizontal stinging blasts which further reminded me of home. I decided to sack it after the first peak (Fontanette) - which had a pleasant and quite narrow ridge leading to it. I scampered back down to the Port de Lers and tried to dry off at the Etang de Lers, looking very different from yesterday. Inevitably it started to clear as I drove to Massat but I still felt it was the right decision - a transition day and a semi-rest day (although I had rather stupidly done well over 500m of ascent in 'fell race style' up to Pic de Fontanette in 30 minutes). After a superb chicken tart from a Massat Deli (it was almost uncomfortably cold outside) I drove via a St Gaudens coffee to Aurelle, and then the Col d'Aspin, where I spent a misty and atmospheric night. The weather remained unstable all day.

Port de Lers-Col de Port ride

After a very successful start summiting six splendid peaks, it was time for the bike to come out. I had a few options, wanting to do some famous Tour climbs, but eventually settled for a modestly challenging 75k/1500m loop from my camping spot near Laramade. I left fairly early, deep blue skies above and still the potential for very high temperatures, and took it easy to Vicdessos, from where the climb up to the Port de Lers begins. This was taken by the Tour a week or so ago, and the signs and graffiti were in place. It is a typical Pyrenean climb, the cliche being that instead of the consistent gradients of the Alps, the climbs here tend to rear up then flatten out making it hard to maintain a rhythm. The steep bits tend to be steeper, and having done quite a few of the classic TdF climbs in the Alps I would agree. In the case of the Port de Lers, the steepest sections are right at the start out of Vicdessos, after which it eases for a bit. It stays in woodland, reminiscent of Nant Gwynant, beautifully verdant and lush, before a sharp hairpin takes you into high open meadows with views opening out to the south and west. I really enjoyed the climb, probably my favourite of all the Tour climbs I did on this trip, and even the steeper gradients at the top were no problem. The Port de Lers itself is tranquil and pastoral, closer in ambience to the Croix Morand I did in the Auvergne to the higher cols that were to come. The descent was stupendously brilliant, even though I am always very cautious - just wonderful cycling down to the beautiful Etang de Lers and a junction with the Col d'Agnes. I ignored this in favour of continuing the descent to Massat. This was just as enjoyable, down the valley of the River Arac which was delightful, through little villages like Le Port. There was some gravelly bits but it was generally ideal - and I had been anticipating 'undulations' into the Couserans. Massat turned out to be shabby-chic and bourgeois, not an easy place for a quick snack. I had a lion bar and a fanta from a newsagent which fortified me for the Col de Port. I knew this was a long climb, but also a fairly easy one with steady and gentle 6% gradients for most of it. This climb has often featured on the Tour as it is a major through route between the Couserans and Ariege valleys (first used in the 1940s). I was tiring a little and the heat was building, but I enjoyed it, and got views over yesterday's peaks. It all had that very exciting Tour atmosphere, and it was another fast descent into Tarascon. Through the town, a little busy, and then the undulating drag back to the campsite and a welcome plunge into the Ariege (after some more bouldering). A superb little 75k loop over two famous cols, with around 1500m of climbing.

Montcalm-Estats

Peaks: Pic du Montcalm (3077m), Pica d'Estats (3143m), Pic de Verdaguer (3129m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

Estats is on the border with Spain and is therefore the Catalonian highpoint. As a result, half the residents of the Pinet hut were Catalan or Spanish, heading up to this special summit. Strangely enough, I have also done Pedraforca, which also has some significance as an iconic symbol of Catalan nationhood. Whatever its wider symbolism, Pica d'Estats is a major Pyrenean peak and one that I was delighted to add to my list of Pyrenees mountains built up very intermittently over 31 years since my ascent of Pic du Midi with Stee in 1993! Pic du Montcalm came first, however, but not before a weather scare. I spent the night on the floor of the hut - such was the crowding that I just dragged my mattress to a space below the window. That said, I slept well and was only woken by an annoying alarm by a fellow dorm dweller. Peering out of the window, I was amazed and alarmed to find it raining, with a strong wind blowing and threatening cloud. Over breakfast, however, the verdict seemed to be that it would clear between 9am and midday, and these peaks are well tracked out, popular and not serious despite their altitude. So I set off with a fair amount of optimism, and felt pretty good despite yesterday's rigours. The route takes the left-hand side of the dramatic narrow valley (Ruisseau d'Estats) which plunges down to the hut from the superbly situated Etang d'Estats, surrounded by peaks, Sottlo being particularly impressive. The route then climbs steeply left to an even tighter valley, this time containing the glacial lake of the Etang de Montcalm. Above, the Point du Montcalm was an impressive spire. But the main route then became complex, weaving up tricky terrain to some snowfields and then an easier upper cwm to a major col between the two peaks. Superb views down to the eastern valleys and south into Catalonia. Altitude kicks in for me around the 3000m mark, and today was no exception. But the weather was ideal - high milky cloud, cold but not too cold, and no rain. The ascent of Montcalm is easy, steep to the east but generally quite rounded. From the summit, great views east over a standard Pyrenees cloud inversion. I had the summit to myself, always special, and made my way back to the col where I immediately began to climb up Estats. This has a tiny scrambling section, and Estats is generally a more shapely summit. A vague ridge leads to a mini col, and then shaley scrambling up to a spire-like summit, which again I had to myself. A fantastic place to be, and a great mountain. Stunning views in all directions, as this is a very prominent mountain, much higher than most of its surroundings, befitting its status. Back at the mini-col, I took in the prominent subsidiary peak which turned out to be Pic de Verdaguer (from most angles, Estats is a triple-pointed mountain with three different summits). This gave a great view back to the main top. I passed the couple from Valencia that I'd shared a table with the night before, and they pronounced themselves impressed by my speed! I really enjoyed the descent back to the hut, passing most of the hut residents on their way up as the weather cleared to blue skies and temperatures climbed considerably (I had been in coat and hat all morning). After a very short rest and drink at the hut, I took a different and much better descent to the valley. I headed initially to the little shepherds hut at Etang Sourd, then took the steep descent to regain the ascent route just above the treeline. The rest was a little tiring but fine down to L'Artigue where I had a superb river bath before heading back to Tarascon. I later camped next to the bouldering in Laramade. I had my rock shoes, and this place was almost a mini Fontainebleau. As usual, however, the discipline of bouldering just leaves me a little cold. I did a few easy problems then retired for tea.

Pic de St Barthelemy, Girabal, hut walk

Peaks: Pic de St Barthelemy (2348m),  Pic de Girabal (2169m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

St Barthelemy is very notable as it emerges from the Ariege plains beyond Mirepoix. It made an obvious initial objective, and the morning dawned crystal clear with some serious heat starting to build. I was very conscious of not burning all my matches too early so adopted a sustainable pace to escape the ski developments and gain the unspoiled terrain surrounding the Etangs de Fage Belle, a small lake. The route then heads east to the hidden valley marked Font de la l'Auzate. Then came a steep climb out of dwarf woodland (with impressive stands of great yellow gentian) to gain high mountain terrain at the pronounced Col de Girabal, at which the route takes on a high mountain feel. A pleasant ridge leads to the summit of St Barthelemy. Instructive views over the entire region as it is much higher than everything else locally (apart from its immediate neighbour, which it would have been nice to have done as it looked an interesting scramble). I retraced steps down to the Col and then really enjoyed the steeper climb up to the Pic de Girabal, with a little mild scrambling in places especially on the crest. A lovely rocky summit, and then new terrain down to the next col over, the Col de l'Etang d'Appy, presumably named after the mountain lake just below. Again, I could have bagged more peaks from here but sensibly opted to complete the loop back to the Fage Belle and then back to Mont D'Olmes. A delightful start, after which I drove around to the next valley over and had lunch in Tarascon sur Ariege, before continuing to Auzat and the roadhead higher up at L'Artigue. This was rammed with day trippers escaping the heat, so I could only park lower down, after which I embarked on the walk-in to the Refuge du Pinet. I have done this before, a hut walk after a day in the mountains, and it is tiring, However, the heat today - along with the vertical interval - made this a particularly big ask at the start of the trip. That said, it was wonderful to be back in the high Pyrenees, and the route initally follows the valley of the upper Ariege with stunning views down to the river, the Cascade Pressac and up to the bare mountains further north like Pique de Belcaire. After a small error, I began to climb steeply through woodland. I hadn't done much research and was taken aback by the amount of climbing, which then got harder as it emerged from the treeline into the hanging valley south-west. No sign of the hut (which is completely hidden from view until you reach it) so life did get a bit tough for a while - sweating and dehydrating as I climbed. It got even steeper for a while, and with the 1100m climb added to the 1100m climbed this morning took it out of me more than expected. However, eventually I gained the beautiful Etang du Pinet and the wonderfully situated hut, which was packed, completely full. I was very glad that I'd booked, and just concentrating on replenishing my reserves with the usual fine four course hut meal of local beef with olives, ariege cheese, carrot soup, cake (and lots of resting admiring the view back down the valley) that evening.

Pic du Han

Peaks: Pic du Han (2074m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

After dropping the family off at Carcassonne Airport I drove to Mirepoix and then up to the ski station at Mont D'Olmes. This is essentially the edge of the Pyrenees, and the hills around here were the obvious place to start. I don't recall ever visiting Ariege before either, which was a further attraction (this was my fourth Pyrenees trip, the others being 1993, 1997 and 2016). I had no real intention of doing anything today, but when I arrived I realised the cable car was still running and I just had enough time for a reccie - it seemed a perfect opportunity. So I packed quickly and took it to the top station, where I embarked on zigzags up to an obvious Col de Cadene. From there, a short east ridge leads up via a little mild scrambling to the summit of Pic du Han. In my excitement at being here I initially felt I could run over to some of the neighbouring peaks, but I soon talked myself down from such foolishness. There was an obvious need to pace myself, so I contented myself with this as an ideal little reccie, spying out the peaks of my next destination like Pica d'Estats, and then descending for the return ride just before it closed.

Pic de Brau

Peaks: Pic de Brau (654m)

Area: Aude, France

Not a very interesting looking mountain, Pic de Brau frames the skyline from Limoux but has a plateau-like summit covered in wind-farms. After a couple of runs in Carcassonne, including one along the Canal du Midi, and a 30k bike ride through the Limoux vineyards, I had some spare energy so ran up this hill from Cournanel (a lovely village just outside Limoux) before breakfast. It was more enjoyable than I'd expected, nice gravel tracks up to a little level ridge and then a remarkably steep final climb for such a short and innocuous looking mountain. From the top, the Pyrenees were cloud-covered but Bugarach was clear and notable. I descended equally steep slopes down the far side of the mountain and then picked up the family (in shifts) for a delightful circuit walk around the 'Cabanes' - each individual vineyard had its own shelter, and they had all been perfectly restored. We had a picnic by one as the temperature climbed.

Limoux ride

Just a short outing through the vineyards of Limoux - most famed for the sparkling 'blanquette' which predates Champagne by a century. As with the three cols I did in the Auvergne, these short climbs have also featured on the Tour. They really are quite small, however, and I climbed the Col du Loup initially before the Cote de St Nazaire took me down to that little wine village before heading back on the unpleasant main Carcassonne road.

Pic de Bugarach

Peaks: Pech/Pic de Bugarach (1230m)

Area: Corbieres, France

Both the mountain and village of Bugarach became famous a decade or two again, as some cult or other decided it would be spared when the world ended in 2012. That didn't happen, but the mountain is still apparently associated with various new-age beliefs. It stands alone and impressively above the village, which might have something to do with it, but for me it just represented an ideal outing for M and I after we moved accommodation from Carcassonne to Limoux. We have made a habit of taking in at least one peak together during our family holidays, so I drove in the van up to the Col de Linas for a high start. The route up was really enjoyable, through a mossy woodland we christened 'dagobah' to a viewpoint and then the spectacular side peak spires of Pic Grosse with a superb view down over 'Cathar Country'. The route then kinks left to join the broad west ridge which leads delightfully to the summit. This was a fantastic place, which we had to ourselves despite encountering numerous others on the mountain. A steep gully plunged down from one side, with the Pyrenees distantly visible from the other. I could see St Barthelemy, which I felt would make a good initial objective next week. I could also see Carlit, which I did in 2016. But most notable was Canigou, iconic Catalan summit, shimmering to the south. I had planned to descent south-east, but after a sandwich the initial steep scree made me consider the 'fenetre' route to the west. This was an excellent decision, and we both enjoyed the intricate route through little crags, passing the little window (a hole in the limestone) part of the way down. After reaching the woods we finally got down to a quiet road which led round the mountain back to the village. M stayed here while I ploughed back up to the Col de Linas for the car. A very enjoyable Bastille Day outing.

Mont Dore peaks and ride

Peaks: Roc de Cuzeau (1737m), Puy de Crebasses (1762m), Puy de Cacadogne (1784m), Puy de Sancy (1885m), Tour Carree (1738m), Puy de Clierge (1691m)

Area: Massif Central, France

After 10 hours of nourishing sleep at the wonderful Col de Guery, I had some porridge then drove across to Mont Dore and up to park near the Chalet du Sancy. I calculated this would be best-placed for a big horseshoe of the main peaks in this area, which are all surprisingly scenic, even mildly dramatic in places. It was all a very nice surprise, one of the very few parts of mountainous France that I have never visited. As a result, this was a superbly enjoyable circuit of at least six peaks (there is an established route called the Boucle de Sancy which takes part of this, although I was unaware of it). My starting point proved prudent as it gave access to a contouring route through forests near the Chalet du Sancy which gained the ridgeline below the Roc de Cuzeau. A few hundred metres of ascent remained to the summit, at which views opened out towards Sancy and the head of the valley. This is partially spoiled by ski developments, but the upper mountains are again surprisingly well defined. The weather was perfect, clear, sunny and warm but not overly humid. I really enjoyed the subsequent hills of Crebasses (more rounded) and Cacadogne, which I skirted. Then it was up the badly eroded zigzags to Puy de Sancy, the dominant peak and (along with the Puy de Dome) perhaps the most climbed mountain in France. It certainly felt like Snowdon at the top, with dozens of people milling around. Wooden steps down to a marked col was another indication of this, as its the highest peak for miles around, a really prominent feature of the landscape. Not really my cup of tea so I scampered down past surprisingly dramatic views to the col below the Tour Carree to continue the circuit, after which the crowds melted away as they so often do. The rest of the round was a delight, again much more interesting than I'd expected. Tour Carree was rocky but gave way to a fabulous easy romp along the western side of the valley, with superb views back to Sancy. Over the Puy de Clierge then down from the col below the Capucin to emerge right next to the van. Fortunately, I was in time for lunch, so had the local speciality of Truffade made with Bleu d'Auvergne and served with saucisson sec. Thus fortified, and after a coffee, I got on the bike for another training climb, this time more precisely replicating my forthcoming Pyrenees plans. I rode up the Col de la Croix Morand from Mont Dore. This was mild, no more than 8k at a steady 6% gradient, so much easier than a Pyrenees climb, but still a highly enjoyable confidence boost and trial for the Scott. It has featured at least six times on the Tour, and the top had that distinctive atmosphere. After a river bath under a tiny waterfall, I drove to the Dordogne and parked the van above the famous river itself, not far from Martel (which I ran to via delightful paths next morning after a nocturnal downpour).

Roche Sanadoire

Peaks: Roche Sanadoire (1286m)

Area: Massif Central/Auvergne, France

After a baguette lunch of the ultra-local St Nectaire cheese in Orcival, I rounded the corner to find the dramatic peaks of Roche Sanadoire and Tuiliere. This was a genuine surprise, as Sanadoire in particular looks like an Alpine spire from some angles. As I reached the Col de Guery, I spied a tiny path up this western side and it occured to me it would make a very quick outing from the col. It did indeed: a short descent to a lower col, and then I made my way up steep slopes to a precipitous path which cut through bands of limestone to the small summit. Steep but nowhere near as hard as the peak actually looks. Superb views of the beautiful valley below, and across to the rest of the range. I then spent the evening gazing at the famous view of these two spires from the Col de Guery viewpoint, wonderfully relaxing.

Puy de Dome run and ride

Peaks: Puy de Dome (1465m)

Area: Chaine des Puys/Massif Central, France

A notable landmark, obvious for miles around, this volcanic lava dome may well be one of the most frequently ascended mountains in France. I hadn't really planned to do it (I would have liked to have cycled up it, but that is now banned). However, the view of it as I approached the Puys from Troyes (where I had watched the Tour stage yesterday via a 35k ride) made it a compelling objective. Lots of cars at the Col de Ceyssat, and a famous path - the Chemin des Muletiers - leading directly to the top. This was enjoyable, albeit crowded with families and all manner of day-trippers, rather like Snowdon. At the top, it emerges onto the expansive summit dome replete with visitor centre, observatory and tracks. I took in the view of Clermont Ferrand, which is directly below, as well as the distant views across to higher hills like the Puy de Sancy. I did a few loops around the top then located a tiny steep path that immediately left the crowds behind to plough directly down the northern slopes. A long looping descent followed, quite hot at times in glorious sunshine. After a short break, I drove to Ceyssat and got the bike out for a little tester, up to the Col de Ceyssat, then the very fast descent to the edge of the city, and then the surprisingly tough climb up the Col de Moreno before a gravel descent back to Ceyssat. 

Druid race

Race: Druid fell race

Time/Position: 41.50 (17th from 100)

A dreadful race, by far my worst time on this course, a race I have done many times. I started reasonably well but faded rapidly on the climb. The descent was marginally better, but not much.