Area: Massif Central, France
After 10 hours of nourishing sleep at the wonderful Col de Guery, I had some porridge then drove across to Mont Dore and up to park near the Chalet du Sancy. I calculated this would be best-placed for a big horseshoe of the main peaks in this area, which are all surprisingly scenic, even mildly dramatic in places. It was all a very nice surprise, one of the very few parts of mountainous France that I have never visited. As a result, this was a superbly enjoyable circuit of at least six peaks (there is an established route called the Boucle de Sancy which takes part of this, although I was unaware of it). My starting point proved prudent as it gave access to a contouring route through forests near the Chalet du Sancy which gained the ridgeline below the Roc de Cuzeau. A few hundred metres of ascent remained to the summit, at which views opened out towards Sancy and the head of the valley. This is partially spoiled by ski developments, but the upper mountains are again surprisingly well defined. The weather was perfect, clear, sunny and warm but not overly humid. I really enjoyed the subsequent hills of Crebasses (more rounded) and Cacadogne, which I skirted. Then it was up the badly eroded zigzags to Puy de Sancy, the dominant peak and (along with the Puy de Dome) perhaps the most climbed mountain in France. It certainly felt like Snowdon at the top, with dozens of people milling around. Wooden steps down to a marked col was another indication of this, as its the highest peak for miles around, a really prominent feature of the landscape. Not really my cup of tea so I scampered down past surprisingly dramatic views to the col below the Tour Carree to continue the circuit, after which the crowds melted away as they so often do. The rest of the round was a delight, again much more interesting than I'd expected. Tour Carree was rocky but gave way to a fabulous easy romp along the western side of the valley, with superb views back to Sancy. Over the Puy de Clierge then down from the col below the Capucin to emerge right next to the van. Fortunately, I was in time for lunch, so had the local speciality of Truffade made with Bleu d'Auvergne and served with saucisson sec. Thus fortified, and after a coffee, I got on the bike for another training climb, this time more precisely replicating my forthcoming Pyrenees plans. I rode up the Col de la Croix Morand from Mont Dore. This was mild, no more than 8k at a steady 6% gradient, so much easier than a Pyrenees climb, but still a highly enjoyable confidence boost and trial for the Scott. It has featured at least six times on the Tour, and the top had that distinctive atmosphere. After a river bath under a tiny waterfall, I drove to the Dordogne and parked the van above the famous river itself, not far from Martel (which I ran to via delightful paths next morning after a nocturnal downpour).
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