Area: Ariege, Pyrenees
Estats is on the border with Spain and is therefore the Catalonian highpoint. As a result, half the residents of the Pinet hut were Catalan or Spanish, heading up to this special summit. Strangely enough, I have also done Pedraforca, which also has some significance as an iconic symbol of Catalan nationhood. Whatever its wider symbolism, Pica d'Estats is a major Pyrenean peak and one that I was delighted to add to my list of Pyrenees mountains built up very intermittently over 31 years since my ascent of Pic du Midi with Stee in 1993! Pic du Montcalm came first, however, but not before a weather scare. I spent the night on the floor of the hut - such was the crowding that I just dragged my mattress to a space below the window. That said, I slept well and was only woken by an annoying alarm by a fellow dorm dweller. Peering out of the window, I was amazed and alarmed to find it raining, with a strong wind blowing and threatening cloud. Over breakfast, however, the verdict seemed to be that it would clear between 9am and midday, and these peaks are well tracked out, popular and not serious despite their altitude. So I set off with a fair amount of optimism, and felt pretty good despite yesterday's rigours. The route takes the left-hand side of the dramatic narrow valley (Ruisseau d'Estats) which plunges down to the hut from the superbly situated Etang d'Estats, surrounded by peaks, Sottlo being particularly impressive. The route then climbs steeply left to an even tighter valley, this time containing the glacial lake of the Etang de Montcalm. Above, the Point du Montcalm was an impressive spire. But the main route then became complex, weaving up tricky terrain to some snowfields and then an easier upper cwm to a major col between the two peaks. Superb views down to the eastern valleys and south into Catalonia. Altitude kicks in for me around the 3000m mark, and today was no exception. But the weather was ideal - high milky cloud, cold but not too cold, and no rain. The ascent of Montcalm is easy, steep to the east but generally quite rounded. From the summit, great views east over a standard Pyrenees cloud inversion. I had the summit to myself, always special, and made my way back to the col where I immediately began to climb up Estats. This has a tiny scrambling section, and Estats is generally a more shapely summit. A vague ridge leads to a mini col, and then shaley scrambling up to a spire-like summit, which again I had to myself. A fantastic place to be, and a great mountain. Stunning views in all directions, as this is a very prominent mountain, much higher than most of its surroundings, befitting its status. Back at the mini-col, I took in the prominent subsidiary peak which turned out to be Pic de Verdaguer (from most angles, Estats is a triple-pointed mountain with three different summits). This gave a great view back to the main top. I passed the couple from Valencia that I'd shared a table with the night before, and they pronounced themselves impressed by my speed! I really enjoyed the descent back to the hut, passing most of the hut residents on their way up as the weather cleared to blue skies and temperatures climbed considerably (I had been in coat and hat all morning). After a very short rest and drink at the hut, I took a different and much better descent to the valley. I headed initially to the little shepherds hut at Etang Sourd, then took the steep descent to regain the ascent route just above the treeline. The rest was a little tiring but fine down to L'Artigue where I had a superb river bath before heading back to Tarascon. I later camped next to the bouldering in Laramade. I had my rock shoes, and this place was almost a mini Fontainebleau. As usual, however, the discipline of bouldering just leaves me a little cold. I did a few easy problems then retired for tea.
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