Saturday, July 20, 2024

Port de Lers-Col de Port ride

After a very successful start summiting six splendid peaks, it was time for the bike to come out. I had a few options, wanting to do some famous Tour climbs, but eventually settled for a modestly challenging 75k/1500m loop from my camping spot near Laramade. I left fairly early, deep blue skies above and still the potential for very high temperatures, and took it easy to Vicdessos, from where the climb up to the Port de Lers begins. This was taken by the Tour a week or so ago, and the signs and graffiti were in place. It is a typical Pyrenean climb, the cliche being that instead of the consistent gradients of the Alps, the climbs here tend to rear up then flatten out making it hard to maintain a rhythm. The steep bits tend to be steeper, and having done quite a few of the classic TdF climbs in the Alps I would agree. In the case of the Port de Lers, the steepest sections are right at the start out of Vicdessos, after which it eases for a bit. It stays in woodland, reminiscent of Nant Gwynant, beautifully verdant and lush, before a sharp hairpin takes you into high open meadows with views opening out to the south and west. I really enjoyed the climb, probably my favourite of all the Tour climbs I did on this trip, and even the steeper gradients at the top were no problem. The Port de Lers itself is tranquil and pastoral, closer in ambience to the Croix Morand I did in the Auvergne to the higher cols that were to come. The descent was stupendously brilliant, even though I am always very cautious - just wonderful cycling down to the beautiful Etang de Lers and a junction with the Col d'Agnes. I ignored this in favour of continuing the descent to Massat. This was just as enjoyable, down the valley of the River Arac which was delightful, through little villages like Le Port. There was some gravelly bits but it was generally ideal - and I had been anticipating 'undulations' into the Couserans. Massat turned out to be shabby-chic and bourgeois, not an easy place for a quick snack. I had a lion bar and a fanta from a newsagent which fortified me for the Col de Port. I knew this was a long climb, but also a fairly easy one with steady and gentle 6% gradients for most of it. This climb has often featured on the Tour as it is a major through route between the Couserans and Ariege valleys (first used in the 1940s). I was tiring a little and the heat was building, but I enjoyed it, and got views over yesterday's peaks. It all had that very exciting Tour atmosphere, and it was another fast descent into Tarascon. Through the town, a little busy, and then the undulating drag back to the campsite and a welcome plunge into the Ariege (after some more bouldering). A superb little 75k loop over two famous cols, with around 1500m of climbing.

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