Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (4m/1237ft)
Time/Position: 34:29 (13th/166)
My sixth running of this race, and a very narrow PB for the course. Interestingly, my times have been virtually the same (literally within a few seconds of each other) for the last three years. Couldn't match last year's 8th place, though, presumably due to a stronger field. Kept it going reasonably well to the summit in humid and overcast conditions, and took 2 or 3 on the steep initial descent before struggling slightly to maintain the pace lower down (lack of recent intervals showed). My studs are almost worn through, which didn't help traction in the muddier than usual conditions. Always a nice family day out.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Dinas Mot climbing
Crag: Dinas Mot, Llanberis
Routes: Western Slabs (VS 4b,4b,4c: led p.1+3), Lorraine (VS 4c,4c: led p.1)
Prospects looked very grim as we drove over Pen y Pass in persistant rain, with black clouds threatening a serious soaking. And, although it was only spitting by the time I began the first pitch of Western Slabs, a scything cold wind was also trying its best to ruin the day. I've wanted to do this route for some time, though, and the weather couldn't spoil the enjoyment of the first pitch up a rightward-trending groove to a spike and tricky move up a steepish wall to the belay. Found myself shivering with cold (even in polartec jacket and helly) as I seconded Vic up the excellent slabby second pitch: some light rain as I moved right below the two overlaps to gain the delightful delicate grooves that lead to the belay. I then led the final pitch, traversing down and left to gain an easy groove to a flake: then the steep crux moves, with a finger jam gaining a big hold above and easy climbing to the top. A great route, ultra-safe and enjoyable throughout: marred only by the proximity of Western Gully (and, today, the cold and damp weather). Abbed down a soaking wet gully, then led the easy first pitch of Lorraine (shared with The Cracks). I continued a little way up the second pitch, then followed Vic up a long but superb merged pitch to the big pinnacle stance. Splendid climbing, absolutely characteristic of this wonderful crag, up a slanting ramp-like groove on little positive incut holds, quite delicate and thought-provoking, to the chimney in common with The Cracks. Then followed through up the sharply contrasting sustained corner crack. This is top-end VS, with awkward steep jamming throughout. It seemed familiar - I must have climbed either this pitch or the top pitch in youthful error during my ascent of The Cracks 17 or 18 years ago. I then tried leading the obvious crack above the pinnacle to gain the top mantelshelf pitch of The Cracks. However, the rain began in earnest as I struggled above the first committing pull. Just as well, as the pitch turned out to be the 'vicious crack' of GBH which goes at hard 5c. The heavens then opened, and we were forced to retreat down Eastern Gully - which wasn't quite as unpleasantly aquatic as Western! Disappointing to finish early, but in retrospect we definitely got the best out of a poor day.
Routes: Western Slabs (VS 4b,4b,4c: led p.1+3), Lorraine (VS 4c,4c: led p.1)
Prospects looked very grim as we drove over Pen y Pass in persistant rain, with black clouds threatening a serious soaking. And, although it was only spitting by the time I began the first pitch of Western Slabs, a scything cold wind was also trying its best to ruin the day. I've wanted to do this route for some time, though, and the weather couldn't spoil the enjoyment of the first pitch up a rightward-trending groove to a spike and tricky move up a steepish wall to the belay. Found myself shivering with cold (even in polartec jacket and helly) as I seconded Vic up the excellent slabby second pitch: some light rain as I moved right below the two overlaps to gain the delightful delicate grooves that lead to the belay. I then led the final pitch, traversing down and left to gain an easy groove to a flake: then the steep crux moves, with a finger jam gaining a big hold above and easy climbing to the top. A great route, ultra-safe and enjoyable throughout: marred only by the proximity of Western Gully (and, today, the cold and damp weather). Abbed down a soaking wet gully, then led the easy first pitch of Lorraine (shared with The Cracks). I continued a little way up the second pitch, then followed Vic up a long but superb merged pitch to the big pinnacle stance. Splendid climbing, absolutely characteristic of this wonderful crag, up a slanting ramp-like groove on little positive incut holds, quite delicate and thought-provoking, to the chimney in common with The Cracks. Then followed through up the sharply contrasting sustained corner crack. This is top-end VS, with awkward steep jamming throughout. It seemed familiar - I must have climbed either this pitch or the top pitch in youthful error during my ascent of The Cracks 17 or 18 years ago. I then tried leading the obvious crack above the pinnacle to gain the top mantelshelf pitch of The Cracks. However, the rain began in earnest as I struggled above the first committing pull. Just as well, as the pitch turned out to be the 'vicious crack' of GBH which goes at hard 5c. The heavens then opened, and we were forced to retreat down Eastern Gully - which wasn't quite as unpleasantly aquatic as Western! Disappointing to finish early, but in retrospect we definitely got the best out of a poor day.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Pandy climbs
Crag: Pandy outcrop, Ceiriog
Routes: Schmutzig (S:led), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:sec), Face Value (VS 4c:sec), Blue Thunder (HVS 5b:sec), Villetta (M:sol), Duck Flight (HS: led p.1), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:led), Victims (E2 5c:sec), Tension Stretcher (E2 6a:sec)
We had to pick our venue for this brief visit carefully, with rain forecast. This 'easterly' crag was the perfect choice - with the rain starting as we finished the final route. I began with a lead of the delightful Schmutzig up the main slab: done previously, lovely incut holds and simple, relaxing climbing in a nice position above this beautiful valley. Vic led Cannon Arete, which I later also led: a fine steep line up the juggy arete itself to an awkward crux move up a steep crack to gain the protruding 'cannon' before an easy finish. Also took the opportunity to romp up the excellent Face Value. This is basically protectionless, so I felt little shame in having a rope above me: great steep climbing on perfect jugs. Vic then led Blue Thunder, a one-move wonder up an overhanging finger crack with a high step right. Strenuous 5b, but we both polished it off quickly at the first attempt. Next up was the big girdle (Duck Flight). I led p.1, which was fun but rather too easy - a long romp right across the main slab, much dirt and lichen, to the belay. Seconded p.2, across a slab with an interesting move round the arete to gain a corner followed by more easy traversing across two slabs to a simple steep finish. After a lead of Cannon Arete, finished by seconding quick clean ascents of the two E2s on the steep face. Again, no gear so no shame in rope above! Victims was steep and strenuous up to a good hold followed by interesting face climbing. Tension Stretcher had a technical 6a start up a very steep wall on sharp pockets, before less technical but strenuous climbing led left of the arete to the top.
Routes: Schmutzig (S:led), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:sec), Face Value (VS 4c:sec), Blue Thunder (HVS 5b:sec), Villetta (M:sol), Duck Flight (HS: led p.1), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:led), Victims (E2 5c:sec), Tension Stretcher (E2 6a:sec)
We had to pick our venue for this brief visit carefully, with rain forecast. This 'easterly' crag was the perfect choice - with the rain starting as we finished the final route. I began with a lead of the delightful Schmutzig up the main slab: done previously, lovely incut holds and simple, relaxing climbing in a nice position above this beautiful valley. Vic led Cannon Arete, which I later also led: a fine steep line up the juggy arete itself to an awkward crux move up a steep crack to gain the protruding 'cannon' before an easy finish. Also took the opportunity to romp up the excellent Face Value. This is basically protectionless, so I felt little shame in having a rope above me: great steep climbing on perfect jugs. Vic then led Blue Thunder, a one-move wonder up an overhanging finger crack with a high step right. Strenuous 5b, but we both polished it off quickly at the first attempt. Next up was the big girdle (Duck Flight). I led p.1, which was fun but rather too easy - a long romp right across the main slab, much dirt and lichen, to the belay. Seconded p.2, across a slab with an interesting move round the arete to gain a corner followed by more easy traversing across two slabs to a simple steep finish. After a lead of Cannon Arete, finished by seconding quick clean ascents of the two E2s on the steep face. Again, no gear so no shame in rope above! Victims was steep and strenuous up to a good hold followed by interesting face climbing. Tension Stretcher had a technical 6a start up a very steep wall on sharp pockets, before less technical but strenuous climbing led left of the arete to the top.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Tavern Trial fell race
Race: Tavern Trial (9.5m/3000ft)
Time/position: 1:31:23 (5th/68)
A complete change of route for this race in 2009, after its initial revival last year. This time, Martin had devised a much tougher circuit - it is now, arguably, the hardest fell race in the Clwydians. Beautiful weather throughout, felt particularly warm on the long and steep initial climb from Llangwyfan up to the ridge near Moel Llys y Coed. Some respite on a short descent before the brutal climb direct up Moel Arthur from the car park. Nice to have Arthur included in a proper race! I was reasonably well placed as we contoured the hill before continuing up the OD towards Famau. The route then descends towards Cilcain before climbing back up to the top of Famau. It then descends the MTB route to Llangynhafal before one final climb back on to the ridge at Moel Llys y Coed. So, plenty of action throughout and no real respite. I felt quite good for most of the race, and momentarily felt I might catch the 3rd and 4th placed runners on the final climb. This was an illusion, however, and I downscaled my ambitions to merely keeping a fair pace ticking over during the long final descent to Lletty farm.
Time/position: 1:31:23 (5th/68)
A complete change of route for this race in 2009, after its initial revival last year. This time, Martin had devised a much tougher circuit - it is now, arguably, the hardest fell race in the Clwydians. Beautiful weather throughout, felt particularly warm on the long and steep initial climb from Llangwyfan up to the ridge near Moel Llys y Coed. Some respite on a short descent before the brutal climb direct up Moel Arthur from the car park. Nice to have Arthur included in a proper race! I was reasonably well placed as we contoured the hill before continuing up the OD towards Famau. The route then descends towards Cilcain before climbing back up to the top of Famau. It then descends the MTB route to Llangynhafal before one final climb back on to the ridge at Moel Llys y Coed. So, plenty of action throughout and no real respite. I felt quite good for most of the race, and momentarily felt I might catch the 3rd and 4th placed runners on the final climb. This was an illusion, however, and I downscaled my ambitions to merely keeping a fair pace ticking over during the long final descent to Lletty farm.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Rock and run
Crag: Penmaen Head
Routes: FW route 9 (f6a:led*), WW route 4 (f6a:led), WW route 5 (S:sec), WW route 1 (f6a:led), RW route 3 (f6a:sec)
Squeezed an early morning trip to Penmaenhead into a busy day, meeting Alwyn at 8.30. Fortunate to avoid the worst of the showers, but couldn't really take advantage in terms of routes as I was feeling slightly below par after a mild bug which showed itself during a run up Waun y Llyn from HK in midweek. Began by leading the obvious flake and overhang in the middle of flowstone wall, a strong line (by the standards of UK sports climbs!). Big holds, fun climbing up the steep flake followed by a fairly powerful move right around the overhang to good holds. Steep throughout: fell before reaching the top bolt, which was annoying. Followed up with a cleaner lead of WW4, a short but deceptively sustained route up little edges on the quite different Wen Wall further left. WW1 was similar, but harder, and required rests. Wasted energy on the 6b+ before seconding RW3, a fine route on good rock - steep but excellent juggy flowstone holds, characteristic of the crag. Felt weak again on this. Tired after just two hours of climbing, I then drove to work. Later, enjoyed a relaxing jog along the leat to Pantymwyn, then back to Cadole, in preparation for tomorrow's race.
Routes: FW route 9 (f6a:led*), WW route 4 (f6a:led), WW route 5 (S:sec), WW route 1 (f6a:led), RW route 3 (f6a:sec)
Squeezed an early morning trip to Penmaenhead into a busy day, meeting Alwyn at 8.30. Fortunate to avoid the worst of the showers, but couldn't really take advantage in terms of routes as I was feeling slightly below par after a mild bug which showed itself during a run up Waun y Llyn from HK in midweek. Began by leading the obvious flake and overhang in the middle of flowstone wall, a strong line (by the standards of UK sports climbs!). Big holds, fun climbing up the steep flake followed by a fairly powerful move right around the overhang to good holds. Steep throughout: fell before reaching the top bolt, which was annoying. Followed up with a cleaner lead of WW4, a short but deceptively sustained route up little edges on the quite different Wen Wall further left. WW1 was similar, but harder, and required rests. Wasted energy on the 6b+ before seconding RW3, a fine route on good rock - steep but excellent juggy flowstone holds, characteristic of the crag. Felt weak again on this. Tired after just two hours of climbing, I then drove to work. Later, enjoyed a relaxing jog along the leat to Pantymwyn, then back to Cadole, in preparation for tomorrow's race.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Cwm Glas climbs
Peak: Crib Goch
Crag: North face
Route: Reade's Route (HVD: led p.2)
Crag: Ettws Isaf
Route: Little Benjamin (S: led p.1,2)
A pseudo-Alpine day of modest mountaineering in the corner of Eryri which gets closest in appearance and ambience to parts of the southern Alps (albeit not all that close!). Alwyn and I started early, under glowering and unpromising skies, making good progress up towards Cyrn Las. Didn't feel any after-effects of last night's race, and we cut up the Gennog stream SE to gain Cwm Glas Uchaf east of the lake and thereby make the walk-in as brief as possible. It remains one of the remotest climbs in North Wales, though, and took over an hour to reach by this route - which is more logical and satisfying than via PyP. The buttress looks steep and imposing from the lip of the cwm, but this is an illusion. We scrambled up wet scree and easy rock to a stance at the bottom of Crazy Pinnacle gully. Alwyn led the easy first pitch up a long rib. This gave me the crux: up a surprisingly steep flake crack to good holds and a ledge. Then comes the famous pinnacle. Rather an anti-climax in terms of the position, as it's not very high up! It is great fun, though, with easy climbing to the top of the pinnacle followed by the stride across to the face. Wet rock gave me food for thought here, as the crucial foothold was slimey, but a side pull soon gains a big jug and a cosy stance. Alwyn finished up the enjoyable groove in a splendid position to gain the ridge amidst hordes of tourists. The crowds then rather ruined the mountaineering vibe as we crossed the crest of the ridge to Crib Goch summit, although at least we had the North Ridge to ourselves. Stuck to the crest (my 20th crossing?) with good scrambling throughout: an excellent and appropriate way to complete and descend from a mountaineering route. Found all the shortcuts through the crags to emerge near Ettws Isaf, and decided on a whim to do Little Benjamin - which is very obviously the line of the crag. It turned out to be an excellent little climb, another unheralded mini-classic. An awkward steep start up an off-width crack soon eases to gain a ledge, before a shuffle left leads to another steep crack on positive holds to the bay. I was enjoying the route so much I led through to the next pitch, traversing left up a huge juggy flake to gain a pinnacle in a good position. The climb is so well protected, however, that I ran out of gear: we were using a light rack given the nature of the day. So I brought Alwyn up before completing the second pitch up to another flake, followed by a fine slabby finish over the nose. A lovely climb, clean, varied, interesting and sustained at the gentle standard throughout.
Crag: North face
Route: Reade's Route (HVD: led p.2)
Crag: Ettws Isaf
Route: Little Benjamin (S: led p.1,2)
A pseudo-Alpine day of modest mountaineering in the corner of Eryri which gets closest in appearance and ambience to parts of the southern Alps (albeit not all that close!). Alwyn and I started early, under glowering and unpromising skies, making good progress up towards Cyrn Las. Didn't feel any after-effects of last night's race, and we cut up the Gennog stream SE to gain Cwm Glas Uchaf east of the lake and thereby make the walk-in as brief as possible. It remains one of the remotest climbs in North Wales, though, and took over an hour to reach by this route - which is more logical and satisfying than via PyP. The buttress looks steep and imposing from the lip of the cwm, but this is an illusion. We scrambled up wet scree and easy rock to a stance at the bottom of Crazy Pinnacle gully. Alwyn led the easy first pitch up a long rib. This gave me the crux: up a surprisingly steep flake crack to good holds and a ledge. Then comes the famous pinnacle. Rather an anti-climax in terms of the position, as it's not very high up! It is great fun, though, with easy climbing to the top of the pinnacle followed by the stride across to the face. Wet rock gave me food for thought here, as the crucial foothold was slimey, but a side pull soon gains a big jug and a cosy stance. Alwyn finished up the enjoyable groove in a splendid position to gain the ridge amidst hordes of tourists. The crowds then rather ruined the mountaineering vibe as we crossed the crest of the ridge to Crib Goch summit, although at least we had the North Ridge to ourselves. Stuck to the crest (my 20th crossing?) with good scrambling throughout: an excellent and appropriate way to complete and descend from a mountaineering route. Found all the shortcuts through the crags to emerge near Ettws Isaf, and decided on a whim to do Little Benjamin - which is very obviously the line of the crag. It turned out to be an excellent little climb, another unheralded mini-classic. An awkward steep start up an off-width crack soon eases to gain a ledge, before a shuffle left leads to another steep crack on positive holds to the bay. I was enjoying the route so much I led through to the next pitch, traversing left up a huge juggy flake to gain a pinnacle in a good position. The climb is so well protected, however, that I ran out of gear: we were using a light rack given the nature of the day. So I brought Alwyn up before completing the second pitch up to another flake, followed by a fine slabby finish over the nose. A lovely climb, clean, varied, interesting and sustained at the gentle standard throughout.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Ponderosa fell race
Race: Ponderosa fell race (4m/1000ft)
Time/position: 29:02 (16th/132)
First short race, or speedwork of any kind, since the Beast at the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased and rather surprised by a reasonable outing on this fast evening route. Took nearly two minutes off my previous time for this race (2007), but the field was very strong so I finished well off the pace (although I would have won the v40 category comfortably, had I been 9 months older!). The mist was down over the Horseshoe Pass as we started, with some cold rain. I climbed quite well to Cyrn y Brain, then held my place during the relentless but enjoyable descent on very narrow tracks through the heather. The mist began to clear as we contoured the valley and I felt reasonably comfortable in the circumstances, although was holding on a bit for the final climb back to the Pass.
Time/position: 29:02 (16th/132)
First short race, or speedwork of any kind, since the Beast at the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased and rather surprised by a reasonable outing on this fast evening route. Took nearly two minutes off my previous time for this race (2007), but the field was very strong so I finished well off the pace (although I would have won the v40 category comfortably, had I been 9 months older!). The mist was down over the Horseshoe Pass as we started, with some cold rain. I climbed quite well to Cyrn y Brain, then held my place during the relentless but enjoyable descent on very narrow tracks through the heather. The mist began to clear as we contoured the valley and I felt reasonably comfortable in the circumstances, although was holding on a bit for the final climb back to the Pass.
Sunday, August 09, 2009
Llandegla biking
MTB route: Llandegla red route
Distance/climb: 14k
A quick blast around the red circuit (10th time?) with Rich. First time on this one for a while, some interesting cleared sections and a few new sections of excellent smooth and flowing singletrack. However, the rockier bits just reminded me of the urgency with which I need to purchase new front forks.
Distance/climb: 14k
A quick blast around the red circuit (10th time?) with Rich. First time on this one for a while, some interesting cleared sections and a few new sections of excellent smooth and flowing singletrack. However, the rockier bits just reminded me of the urgency with which I need to purchase new front forks.
Friday, August 07, 2009
Dinbren climbs, Famau run
Crag: Dinbren, Eglwyseg
Routes: Sally in Pink (VS 4b:led), Astrola (VS 4b:sec), Babbling Arete (S 4a:led), Shaken not Stirred (HS 4b:sec), Castella (VD:sol), Chabris (VS 4c:led), New route (VS 4c:sec), Colour Games (E1 5b:sec), Antilla (S:sol)
A rather brief trip to a venue not visited for some years - worthwhile, but again just concentrated on upping the mileage on simple routes. The two VS grooves on the right-hand tier were obvious starting points, both done numerous times before. I led the square groove of Sally in pink - always very steady, low in the grade, but enjoyable. Seconded Vic and Mick up the similar Astrola before leading Babbling arete up the left edge of the tower. Nice climbing in a good position, just needs to be three times as long! Also led Chabris, a short obvious corner with a deceptively tricky final move (HVS 5a in my old guide), and seconded Vic up a few more routes including a possible new one (the crack left of Shaken not stirred, which went at about VS 4c with nice moves around a flake). Finished by seconding Colour games, which I led many years ago: a nice varied E1 on excellent limestone. We rushed to get back to the Collie in time for the run, but failed. So I tried to catch up, racing up Famau on a horribly empty stomach, reaching the top in 34:50 from Cadole, then racing down to the first road in 15 mins, where I finally caught the tail-enders and jogged back: tired. The combination of this run, hunger, earlier climbing and yesterday's 12 mile run from HK up Waun y Llyn was not a happy one.
Routes: Sally in Pink (VS 4b:led), Astrola (VS 4b:sec), Babbling Arete (S 4a:led), Shaken not Stirred (HS 4b:sec), Castella (VD:sol), Chabris (VS 4c:led), New route (VS 4c:sec), Colour Games (E1 5b:sec), Antilla (S:sol)
A rather brief trip to a venue not visited for some years - worthwhile, but again just concentrated on upping the mileage on simple routes. The two VS grooves on the right-hand tier were obvious starting points, both done numerous times before. I led the square groove of Sally in pink - always very steady, low in the grade, but enjoyable. Seconded Vic and Mick up the similar Astrola before leading Babbling arete up the left edge of the tower. Nice climbing in a good position, just needs to be three times as long! Also led Chabris, a short obvious corner with a deceptively tricky final move (HVS 5a in my old guide), and seconded Vic up a few more routes including a possible new one (the crack left of Shaken not stirred, which went at about VS 4c with nice moves around a flake). Finished by seconding Colour games, which I led many years ago: a nice varied E1 on excellent limestone. We rushed to get back to the Collie in time for the run, but failed. So I tried to catch up, racing up Famau on a horribly empty stomach, reaching the top in 34:50 from Cadole, then racing down to the first road in 15 mins, where I finally caught the tail-enders and jogged back: tired. The combination of this run, hunger, earlier climbing and yesterday's 12 mile run from HK up Waun y Llyn was not a happy one.
Wednesday, August 05, 2009
Rhoscolyn climbs
Crag: Rhoscolyn, Anglesey
Routes: Symphony Crack (D:led), Truant (VS 4c:led), Bagger's Crack (S:led), Toccata Crack (VD:sec)
First visit to this cracking little venue: a good move following three weeks in Provence, because at least this is something that the south of France can't match. We arrived bang on high-tide, which was rather unfortunate, but it improved the ambience of these easy routes considerably. An azure-blue sky and a strong onshore wind completed the usual sensory overload of sea-cliff climbing, albeit of a very modest standard! We took a few minutes to work out the topography, then scrambled down the headland where Alwyn belayed on the only dry ledge while I traversed right just above surprisingly heavy seas into the open-book corner of Symphony crack. A tremendous position for the lowly grade, hard to think of an equivalent anywhere in Wales. But a very short and simple romp on positive holds leads rather too quickly to the top. We then descended the steep gully down into Fallen Block zawn. This is a tremendous place - wild, with great rock architecture, but not remotely intimidating. Just a wonderful place to be. Truant is a fine line up the obvious corner between the steep wall and the slab. I led up the deep wet initial crack to easier climbing on the slab up to a flake. Next came the obvious crux, much harder than the rest of the route, and it was unfortunately wet. So I opted for the little wall above the flake on small positive holds, which led to incuts and enjoyable juggy climbing to a ledge and the easy rock of the upper corner. Good route, strong line, fine position, but low in the grade. Eager for more, we descended to the other side of the zawn where I led Bagger's crack in an even better position. Blue sky above, pounding sea below, it doesn't get much better. A splendid route, too, something of an unsung gem. Steep, juggy and well-protected climbing, and another strong line. Huge flakes right of the crack lead to a steepening, then awkward moves round a chockstone to the top. Alwyn then led the short Toccata crack, followed by a clifftop walk to bouldering on the Sun walls.
Routes: Symphony Crack (D:led), Truant (VS 4c:led), Bagger's Crack (S:led), Toccata Crack (VD:sec)
First visit to this cracking little venue: a good move following three weeks in Provence, because at least this is something that the south of France can't match. We arrived bang on high-tide, which was rather unfortunate, but it improved the ambience of these easy routes considerably. An azure-blue sky and a strong onshore wind completed the usual sensory overload of sea-cliff climbing, albeit of a very modest standard! We took a few minutes to work out the topography, then scrambled down the headland where Alwyn belayed on the only dry ledge while I traversed right just above surprisingly heavy seas into the open-book corner of Symphony crack. A tremendous position for the lowly grade, hard to think of an equivalent anywhere in Wales. But a very short and simple romp on positive holds leads rather too quickly to the top. We then descended the steep gully down into Fallen Block zawn. This is a tremendous place - wild, with great rock architecture, but not remotely intimidating. Just a wonderful place to be. Truant is a fine line up the obvious corner between the steep wall and the slab. I led up the deep wet initial crack to easier climbing on the slab up to a flake. Next came the obvious crux, much harder than the rest of the route, and it was unfortunately wet. So I opted for the little wall above the flake on small positive holds, which led to incuts and enjoyable juggy climbing to a ledge and the easy rock of the upper corner. Good route, strong line, fine position, but low in the grade. Eager for more, we descended to the other side of the zawn where I led Bagger's crack in an even better position. Blue sky above, pounding sea below, it doesn't get much better. A splendid route, too, something of an unsung gem. Steep, juggy and well-protected climbing, and another strong line. Huge flakes right of the crack lead to a steepening, then awkward moves round a chockstone to the top. Alwyn then led the short Toccata crack, followed by a clifftop walk to bouldering on the Sun walls.
Sunday, August 02, 2009
Castle Rock of Triermain
Crag: Castle Rock of Triermain, Lake District
Routes: Direct Route (VS 4b:sec), Gangway Climb (VD+:led), Via Media (S:sec), Direct Route (VS 4b:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's race, compounded by a poor night's sleep (disturbed by a monsoonal deluge) and the after-effects of Old Peculiar. I wasn't in much state for climbing, so was happy to follow Vic up the very good Direct Route in a single (45m?) pitch. Steep climbing on excellent incut holds led to a very wet crack with some unusably slimy holds necessitating an awkward detour up the left wall. Woke up a bit with this. Had no guidebook, but led the obvious line to the right of the crag anyway. Subsequently learned this was Gangway Climb, a very easy climb up an obvious narrow ramp to a ledge in a good position below a blunt slabby arete which leads comfortably to the top. Then did the excellent Via Media - a nice steep rib leads to a juggy crack, superb rock throughout. I was dozing at the top of the crag when it became clear another climber was having problems seconding his mate up Direct Route. So I decided to do a good turn and descended to the bottom of the crag, tied on, and did the route again to retrieve the leader's gear for him. Vic and Mick then went off to do Zig Zag, which I felt able to avoid - mainly because it was the only route on the crag I'd done before (in 1993 with Tim), but also because I was in urgent need of a nap!
Routes: Direct Route (VS 4b:sec), Gangway Climb (VD+:led), Via Media (S:sec), Direct Route (VS 4b:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's race, compounded by a poor night's sleep (disturbed by a monsoonal deluge) and the after-effects of Old Peculiar. I wasn't in much state for climbing, so was happy to follow Vic up the very good Direct Route in a single (45m?) pitch. Steep climbing on excellent incut holds led to a very wet crack with some unusably slimy holds necessitating an awkward detour up the left wall. Woke up a bit with this. Had no guidebook, but led the obvious line to the right of the crag anyway. Subsequently learned this was Gangway Climb, a very easy climb up an obvious narrow ramp to a ledge in a good position below a blunt slabby arete which leads comfortably to the top. Then did the excellent Via Media - a nice steep rib leads to a juggy crack, superb rock throughout. I was dozing at the top of the crag when it became clear another climber was having problems seconding his mate up Direct Route. So I decided to do a good turn and descended to the bottom of the crag, tied on, and did the route again to retrieve the leader's gear for him. Vic and Mick then went off to do Zig Zag, which I felt able to avoid - mainly because it was the only route on the crag I'd done before (in 1993 with Tim), but also because I was in urgent need of a nap!
Saturday, August 01, 2009
Borrowdale fell race
Race: Borrowdale fell race (17m/7000ft)
Peaks: Bessyboot, Scafell Pike, Great Gable, Dale Head
Time/position: 4:14:39 (118/330?)
I wanted to get a classic long Lakes fell race under my belt this summer, so it seemed logical to go for the most famous first. Not much of a performance, as I just plodded round with a stupidly big sac, but an enjoyable day regardless - combined with an enjoyable weekend. Pouring with rain as we arrived in Rosthwaite, but the weather improved throughout the race and was clear by the top of the very steep climb up Bessyboot. Unsurprisingly boggy and hard-going underfoot for the very long traverse above Langstrath skirting Glaramara. Somewhat colder and windier at the second check at Esk Hause, but I rather enjoyed the subsequent climb up Scafell Pike. The terrain becomes increasingly arduous, scree and wet rock throughout, but the summit came sooner than I'd expected (one advantage of a recent Alpine trip!). Took a quick bearing in the mist, not wanting to follow runners, and quickly came to the steep scree gully. This was great fun, very steep and fast, and I was feeling pretty comfortable. The Corridor route was enjoyable new territory, and I found the short cuts before getting to a boggy Styhead. Felt OK for the climb up Great Gable, where I took another bearing in thick mist for the unusually tough descent to the col and traverse of Green Gable and Brandreth where the mist cleared to reveal nice views down to Buttermere. Didn't feel quite so comfortable for the rest of the race, west of Grey Knotts and down steeply to Honister, then the gruelling final climb up Dale Head. I was last up here during last year's OMM, when I was blown to the ground several times as I struggled past the enormous cairn. The conditions were rather better today, and I perked up at the summit and had a good final descent through the quarries above Tongue Gill back to Rosthwaite. Took around 10 runners here, a possible indication that I should have tried harder in the rest of the race! Waited for Vic to arrive, then camped in Stonethwaite and retired to the pub.
Peaks: Bessyboot, Scafell Pike, Great Gable, Dale Head
Time/position: 4:14:39 (118/330?)
I wanted to get a classic long Lakes fell race under my belt this summer, so it seemed logical to go for the most famous first. Not much of a performance, as I just plodded round with a stupidly big sac, but an enjoyable day regardless - combined with an enjoyable weekend. Pouring with rain as we arrived in Rosthwaite, but the weather improved throughout the race and was clear by the top of the very steep climb up Bessyboot. Unsurprisingly boggy and hard-going underfoot for the very long traverse above Langstrath skirting Glaramara. Somewhat colder and windier at the second check at Esk Hause, but I rather enjoyed the subsequent climb up Scafell Pike. The terrain becomes increasingly arduous, scree and wet rock throughout, but the summit came sooner than I'd expected (one advantage of a recent Alpine trip!). Took a quick bearing in the mist, not wanting to follow runners, and quickly came to the steep scree gully. This was great fun, very steep and fast, and I was feeling pretty comfortable. The Corridor route was enjoyable new territory, and I found the short cuts before getting to a boggy Styhead. Felt OK for the climb up Great Gable, where I took another bearing in thick mist for the unusually tough descent to the col and traverse of Green Gable and Brandreth where the mist cleared to reveal nice views down to Buttermere. Didn't feel quite so comfortable for the rest of the race, west of Grey Knotts and down steeply to Honister, then the gruelling final climb up Dale Head. I was last up here during last year's OMM, when I was blown to the ground several times as I struggled past the enormous cairn. The conditions were rather better today, and I perked up at the summit and had a good final descent through the quarries above Tongue Gill back to Rosthwaite. Took around 10 runners here, a possible indication that I should have tried harder in the rest of the race! Waited for Vic to arrive, then camped in Stonethwaite and retired to the pub.
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