Sunday, August 02, 2009

Castle Rock of Triermain

Crag: Castle Rock of Triermain, Lake District
Routes: Direct Route (VS 4b:sec), Gangway Climb (VD+:led), Via Media (S:sec), Direct Route (VS 4b:sec)

Rather tired after yesterday's race, compounded by a poor night's sleep (disturbed by a monsoonal deluge) and the after-effects of Old Peculiar. I wasn't in much state for climbing, so was happy to follow Vic up the very good Direct Route in a single (45m?) pitch. Steep climbing on excellent incut holds led to a very wet crack with some unusably slimy holds necessitating an awkward detour up the left wall. Woke up a bit with this. Had no guidebook, but led the obvious line to the right of the crag anyway. Subsequently learned this was Gangway Climb, a very easy climb up an obvious narrow ramp to a ledge in a good position below a blunt slabby arete which leads comfortably to the top. Then did the excellent Via Media - a nice steep rib leads to a juggy crack, superb rock throughout. I was dozing at the top of the crag when it became clear another climber was having problems seconding his mate up Direct Route. So I decided to do a good turn and descended to the bottom of the crag, tied on, and did the route again to retrieve the leader's gear for him. Vic and Mick then went off to do Zig Zag, which I felt able to avoid - mainly because it was the only route on the crag I'd done before (in 1993 with Tim), but also because I was in urgent need of a nap!

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