Pandy climbs

Crag: Pandy outcrop, Ceiriog
Routes: Schmutzig (S:led), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:sec), Face Value (VS 4c:sec), Blue Thunder (HVS 5b:sec), Villetta (M:sol), Duck Flight (HS: led p.1), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:led), Victims (E2 5c:sec), Tension Stretcher (E2 6a:sec)
We had to pick our venue for this brief visit carefully, with rain forecast. This 'easterly' crag was the perfect choice - with the rain starting as we finished the final route. I began with a lead of the delightful Schmutzig up the main slab: done previously, lovely incut holds and simple, relaxing climbing in a nice position above this beautiful valley. Vic led Cannon Arete, which I later also led: a fine steep line up the juggy arete itself to an awkward crux move up a steep crack to gain the protruding 'cannon' before an easy finish. Also took the opportunity to romp up the excellent Face Value. This is basically protectionless, so I felt little shame in having a rope above me: great steep climbing on perfect jugs. Vic then led Blue Thunder, a one-move wonder up an overhanging finger crack with a high step right. Strenuous 5b, but we both polished it off quickly at the first attempt. Next up was the big girdle (Duck Flight). I led p.1, which was fun but rather too easy - a long romp right across the main slab, much dirt and lichen, to the belay. Seconded p.2, across a slab with an interesting move round the arete to gain a corner followed by more easy traversing across two slabs to a simple steep finish. After a lead of Cannon Arete, finished by seconding quick clean ascents of the two E2s on the steep face. Again, no gear so no shame in rope above! Victims was steep and strenuous up to a good hold followed by interesting face climbing. Tension Stretcher had a technical 6a start up a very steep wall on sharp pockets, before less technical but strenuous climbing led left of the arete to the top.