Rhoscolyn climbs

Crag: Rhoscolyn, Anglesey
Routes: Symphony Crack (D:led), Truant (VS 4c:led), Bagger's Crack (S:led), Toccata Crack (VD:sec)
First visit to this cracking little venue: a good move following three weeks in Provence, because at least this is something that the south of France can't match. We arrived bang on high-tide, which was rather unfortunate, but it improved the ambience of these easy routes considerably. An azure-blue sky and a strong onshore wind completed the usual sensory overload of sea-cliff climbing, albeit of a very modest standard! We took a few minutes to work out the topography, then scrambled down the headland where Alwyn belayed on the only dry ledge while I traversed right just above surprisingly heavy seas into the open-book corner of Symphony crack. A tremendous position for the lowly grade, hard to think of an equivalent anywhere in Wales. But a very short and simple romp on positive holds leads rather too quickly to the top. We then descended the steep gully down into Fallen Block zawn. This is a tremendous place - wild, with great rock architecture, but not remotely intimidating. Just a wonderful place to be. Truant is a fine line up the obvious corner between the steep wall and the slab. I led up the deep wet initial crack to easier climbing on the slab up to a flake. Next came the obvious crux, much harder than the rest of the route, and it was unfortunately wet. So I opted for the little wall above the flake on small positive holds, which led to incuts and enjoyable juggy climbing to a ledge and the easy rock of the upper corner. Good route, strong line, fine position, but low in the grade. Eager for more, we descended to the other side of the zawn where I led Bagger's crack in an even better position. Blue sky above, pounding sea below, it doesn't get much better. A splendid route, too, something of an unsung gem. Steep, juggy and well-protected climbing, and another strong line. Huge flakes right of the crack lead to a steepening, then awkward moves round a chockstone to the top. Alwyn then led the short Toccata crack, followed by a clifftop walk to bouldering on the Sun walls.