Rock and run

Crag: Penmaen Head
Routes: FW route 9 (f6a:led*), WW route 4 (f6a:led), WW route 5 (S:sec), WW route 1 (f6a:led), RW route 3 (f6a:sec)
Squeezed an early morning trip to Penmaenhead into a busy day, meeting Alwyn at 8.30. Fortunate to avoid the worst of the showers, but couldn't really take advantage in terms of routes as I was feeling slightly below par after a mild bug which showed itself during a run up Waun y Llyn from HK in midweek. Began by leading the obvious flake and overhang in the middle of flowstone wall, a strong line (by the standards of UK sports climbs!). Big holds, fun climbing up the steep flake followed by a fairly powerful move right around the overhang to good holds. Steep throughout: fell before reaching the top bolt, which was annoying. Followed up with a cleaner lead of WW4, a short but deceptively sustained route up little edges on the quite different Wen Wall further left. WW1 was similar, but harder, and required rests. Wasted energy on the 6b+ before seconding RW3, a fine route on good rock - steep but excellent juggy flowstone holds, characteristic of the crag. Felt weak again on this. Tired after just two hours of climbing, I then drove to work. Later, enjoyed a relaxing jog along the leat to Pantymwyn, then back to Cadole, in preparation for tomorrow's race.