Monday, March 08, 2010

Cwm Cneifion snow gullies

Crag: Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Nameless Gully (wII:sol), Easy Route (wI:des), Hidden Gully (wII:sol), Corner Gully (wI/II:des), Pinnacle Gully (wI:sol)

This amazing winter just keeps on coming, day after day of superb conditions and memorable outings. This was - perforce - another brief solo morning, so slightly frustrating in terms of feasible options. That said, the neve and weather is now so utterly perfect that easy snow gullies make a lot of sense. Sick of heavy boots by now, so skipped up to Cneifion in my fell running shoes, carrying the boots. Worked well, as I arrived in the cwm proper just after 8am after 40 minutes of minimal effort. Had the place to myself, as I slogged up to the Nameless face at the top of the cwm. Selected Nameless Gully as one of the few routes I haven't done up here. Although hardly a classic line, this gave wonderful easy climbing on seemingly untouched snow. Sheer enjoyment, with ultra-secure placements on ultra-solid neve, leading to a narrowing and steepening between rock walls and a steepish finish, skirting the cornice to sudden sunshine as I emerged on the Glyder plateau to crystal-clear views in every direction. I then descended Easy Route, steep at the top, before traversing in to Hidden Gully. I last did this in 1993: it is an absolute gem, if a little short. Very popular, so inevitably marred by bucket steps all the way, but it is such a delightful place that it hardly matters. The walls close in as the gully steepens, with sunshine for the last few moves. It was still only 9am, so I had breakfast on the plateau before descending Corner Gully for a change. This was absorbing and enjoyable, and led back down to the base of the cwm. I needed to get home early, and was saving energy for a planned 20 mile run tomorrow, but couldn't resist one more gully so nipped up Pinnacle Gully at the base of the cwm - below the arete. The neve was good even here, although the route is just a walk up to a constriction between two high walls. From here, the gully fans out and I took the steepest exit just to the right which gave more highly enjoyable climbing, mixed in places as I weaved around seeking options to extend the action. I emerged at the bottom of the Gribin and sunbathed for a while before descending to the car. Later discovered I'd been wearing my pyjamas all morning, under my thermals, such was my haste to leave HK at 6am!

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