More Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Christmas Curry (S:led p.1,2), Micah Eliminate (HS 4b:sec), Rienetta (HS:led), Merlin (VS 4b,4a:sec), Kestrel Cracks (HVS 4c,5a:sec)
One month since my last visit - and this was another classic Tremadog day, in that we dodged virtually all the showers passing over the mountains. It didn't look that way as I merged the first two pitches of Christmas Curry in drizzle which turned to rain at the stance. This was one of the first long routes I ever did, 20 years ago! Nice easy climbing up a broad chimney leads to lovely positive cracks diagonally left to a stance. The rain miraculously stopped as Vic led the Micah Eliminate in full, another long pitch which makes it into a completely different route. Good climbing up a steep crack to immaculate pocketed rock and a traverse right to the arete in a superb position. We took a while to decide on the next route, with some uncharacteristic faffing, mainly because much of the crag was wet. I eventually led up the easy but dry slabs of Rienetta to the Merlin crack, and followed Vic up the layback, traverse and chimney of Merlin p.2/3 (which I've also done before, during a Liverpool University trip in 1993). Delightful sunbathing at the stance, gazing out at showers passing over the Rhinogs and the sea! After this, I led the first pitch of Kestrel Cracks. This is a very steep, very deep crack line. Ultra-safe and juggy, but pretty strenuous in places too. Awkward moves gain a spike and a rest, before enjoyable climbing on excellent holds lead to the final move up a steep wide crack. This was seeping, very wet, so I prudently retreated. Vic had a go and led through, despite the wet it was actually easily solved by traditional back-and-footing! The top pitch has an awkward start up a steep slanting 5a crack, followed by an easier crack to the top. Hard route to grade: at the border of VS and HVS.