Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft/AS)
Time/Position: 36:24 (10th from 179 [1st v40])
This was my seventh running of this long-established race. I certainly didn't think I'd ever be among the prizes when I was finishing 70th in 2003 or 87th in 2005 (although I did finish 8th in 2008). I was a bit lucky to win my category here, probably, but felt I put in a decent performance. The new course is a vast improvement on the old out-and-back route: no more collisions on the way down. The weather was perfect, with blue skies and tremendous clarity of light, although perhaps a little warm. I have never seen so many people watching a fell race, either, it almost felt like the atmosphere of an Alpine race as I arrived at the summit (a record for me - 20:50 from the village). I descended reasonably well, passing three and getting passed by two, and really enjoyed being able to open up a bit, feeling fairly sharp after recent speedwork and numerous short, fast races. The new route takes the Clwydian Hills race descent to emerge near the reservoir, and I managed to hold it together for the final climb back to the village. Pleased but rather surprised to be awarded the veteran's trophy at the showground later.

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 16:59 (13th from 187 [2nd v40])
Apart from a couple of plodded 5k races in 2006, including this one, I'd never raced at the distance before. It was also my first road race for several months, certainly my first short road race since April, so I was surprised and pleased to feel quite good throughout and to record a decent time after a summer running and racing on the hills (inevitably, I recorded a huge pb). Conditions were good, and this is well known as a competitive and fast race, which all helps. I slowed slightly between 3 and 4k, before picking it up well towards the finish when I realised sub-17 was on the cards. Only just made it! Won the v40 prize, which was pleasing on this fairly prestigious race, although in reality the 2nd runner overall was also in the category.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Mogadishu (f4+:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Indian Summer (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), October Premiere (f5+:led), Conan the Libertarian (f6a:sec), Finale (f5:sec)
Plans to head up to the East Face of Bristly Ridge dissipated in torrential rain and -6C windchill a few minutes into the walk up Cwm Tryfan. A miserably wet drive back down the A55 saw us pull into Castle Inn in a last-ditch attempt to salvage something: the only possible option although it was still raining when Dale led the very scrappy new route on the left of the crag. Seconded the 6a arete, before leading the adjacent School Mam in strong winds and light rain. I think I last led this many years ago when it was a disjointed 6b, traversing in from the right. The new line is more direct, giving easier but better climbing. Despite the weather, I cruised up the route and found it surprisingly good, one of the best routes here: very nice moves up small but positive holds and edges lead to juggier climbing at the overlap. A heavy squally shower then drenched the crag, so we had lunch in the car before moving over to the newly developed Fine View Wall which was sheltered from the worst of the wind and rain. Indian Summer gives some very nice climbing, up small positive edges on very rough, excellent limestone (by UK standards). Sadly, it is a rather contrived line which is just a bit too close to the arete and the adjacent VS. Dale led Route 1, which I then went up for the 10th time! Finished with two new chossy routes on a hidden wall to the right, which were at least out of the wind. Decent workouts but a tad dirty.

Craig y Tonnau climbs, Moelwyn run

Crag: Craig y Tonnau, Cwm Lledr
Routes: Robbin's Nest (S:sh), Dentist's Slab (S:sh), Central Crack (VD:sh), Robbin's Right Hand (S:sh), Robbin's Reliant (VD:sh)
Rain was forecast to sweep westwards over Snowdonia by 9am, so I left Ffestiniog alone at 7am intent on a few routes and a good run before it arrived. The drizzle started before I reached Blaenau, predictably enough, and was torrential by the top of the Crimea. However, I persisted because it was so early, and turned off at the Roman Bridge for Blaenau Dolwyddelan. A very soggy walk got me to Craig y Tonnau, which is a strange little crag of wavy granular rock above a conifer forest, and I shunted a few routes in light rain with occasional heavier bursts. As expected, the rock was so rough and juggy, and the climbing so easy, that the weather didn't matter. No real lines here, apart from the enjoyable Central Crack which ascends the eponymous feature on huge holds, but the climbing is pleasant and certainly a good choice this morning. After about 50 minutes and five routes, the rain became unpleasantly heavy so I jogged back to the car and changed into running gear. I ran at a decent pace (21m) up the forest roads to Llynnau Diwaunydd, a beautiful and isolated spot, one of the finest lakes in Eryri. I was tempted to continue up Siabod, as the rain had stopped, but opted to extend the outing by running further down the lower valley to Coed Mawr instead because I wanted to get home early (it was still before 10am).

Craig y Clipiau climbs

Crag: Craig y Clipiau, Moelwynion
Routes: Mean Feet (HVS 4b,5a:led p.1), Double Criss (VS 4c,4c:led p.1), Vestix (HVS 5a:sec), Depression Direct (HS 4b:led), Jones's Crack (VS 4c+:sec)
A productive afternoon's cragging at this fine venue. I remember climbing numerous routes here in freezing weather in 1996, but we both had several gaps to fill - and did so pleasingly efficiently after a late start. Mean Feet is one of the best routes at Clipiau, and an obvious target. I led the easy first pitch, which takes a clear line of jugs in an increasingly fine position traversing left to a small stance. Vic then led the obvious steep groove, which gives awkward bridging using small but conveniently placed pockets to gain a ledge. Excellent steep climbing on very rough juggy rock leads to the top. I then led the long (30m) first pitch of Double Criss - a surprisingly committing start leads to an archetypal Moelwyn slab of bubbly rock which tapers up to the final steep wall. Gentle but absorbing climbing leads via a huge flake to a short quartzy slab and belay. Vic led the very short final pitch: a thrutchy crack made easier, although hardly more elegant, by smearing on the right wall to gain the obvious jug. We moved round to the west facing buttress, following the sun as it began to emerge from thick cloud. Vic wanted to lead Vestix, and it was a fine choice. A steep crack leads to a splendid hand traverse left to the arete before a distinct and strenuous crux move up the arete with very little for the feet gains a rest. Easier but very good climbing up the arete on superb rock to finish. The most obvious line hereabouts is Depression Direct, which I selected for my lead. An easy, rather ill-defined crack gains a blocky ledge before a splendid finish up the very obvious steep continuation crack. The crux is literally the final move. The clouds dissolved to give a superb evening, with the crag in perfect sunny conditions as Vic led the severely undergraded Jones's Crack. More like HVS 5a/b than the grade given. The first crack required a tenuous layaway move to small holds further right, and the continuation crack also had a tough move to gain easier climbing. Delightful evening sunshine, so we walked a little way into Cwm Orthin before retiring to Llan Ffestiniog.

Craig y Rhiw fell race

Race: Craig y Rhiw/Rhydycroesau fell race (4m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 29:20 (7th from 47 [3rd v40])
This short, fast race was a little too short and fast for me: largely forest tracks throughout, more of a trail race than a fell race. It loops the village show field (literally on the Wales-England border) before crossing through the delightful village of Rhydycroesau to head into the humid forest. A series of climbs leads to a short ridge, presumably the top of Craig y Rhiw, before a slippery descent back down to the valley (not quite long enough to catch the small group in front). I made the mistake of thinking the next little loop was the steep 'sting in the tail'. It wasn't, as I discovered during the very taxing final 400m climb to the finish!

Resolution 10k

Race: Resolution 10k, Finsbury Park, London
Time/Position: 38:49 (2nd from 356)
Given my urgent need to get back on the roads before the forthcoming Welsh 10k championships, I thought I'd enter this one as we were staying in London for the weekend. A strange but enjoyable (and charitable) event: lots of runners, chip timing, but basically a fun run (hence my high finishing position!). The course was pleasant - two laps around Finsbury Park, with a surprising number of hills and a few grass sections, so not particularly fast. A small group of runners took it seriously, and I found myself in second place after 1 or 2k. Had no intention of making myself uncomfortable, so just kept a brisk pace going and used the race as an excellent training session. It was all pretty unusual, a sharp contrast with the usual race-day routine back home, but quite pleasant and relaxed. I'll have to run over three minutes quicker than this in Cardiff though.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa (4m/1000ft/BS)
Time/Position: 28:42 (12th from 120)
This was a much needed reality check. After six or so category wins this summer, a stronger competitive field on this race pushed me back down to my rightful place! I climbed quite well to the top of Cyrn y Brain in 10 minutes, but this race really doesn't give you any time to catch your breath: virtually an all-out (quite exhilerating) sprint from the mast down the narrow paths above Fron Lwyd. I picked a bad line through the bogs, lost a place, then lost another place on the final climb to the finish. The short final climb is always a desperate struggle, coming as it does at the end of a flat-out three mile descent! I beat my pb for the course by 20 seconds (my 3rd or 4th time in this race) but always tend to finish some way down the field.

Carreg Mianog climbs

Crag: Carreg Mianog, Carneddau
Routes: Zip Wall (HS 4b:led), Zip Groove (VS 4c:sec), Cracked Arete (VS 4b:led), Biceps Wall (VS 4c:sec), Knee Cap (VS 4c:sec)
There aren't many decent crags in Snowdonia which are 30 minutes walk from a main road, yet remain completely quiet on a sunny summer Sunday. Carreg Mianog does, and was an excellent choice today after recent rain. It's a delightful place, with a remarkably isolated feel despite being close to the A5, and it has some nice, if rather short (30-40m) routes. I started by leading Zip Wall, which had yet to get the sun and so was rather wet. This made the initial steep wall tricky for the grade: wet footholds throughout. A few moves left gain a mantel to a ledge, followed by a pleasant arete and a fun (dry!) final crack. All much better than it looks from below. Vic then followed up with Zip Groove, a strong line, if a little vegetated. This route felt easier than Zip Wall despite the grade, and gave nice bridging on good holds up two distinct but linked grooves. We finished up the much harder crack left of the Zip Wall finish, for variety. This gave a couple of interesting 5b-ish layaway moves. I then led the classic of the crag before lunch. Cracked Arete is up there with the likes of Yellow Groove and Hawk's Nest Arete as the best single-pitch VS in Snowdonia: just delightful climbing throughout. Neat moves up the arete gain a juggy curving crack which leads to a spike and ledge in a great position. Then another curving crack, slightly harder, gains an easier and wider final crack. Immaculate, well-positioned low-end VS climbing with superb rock and protection throughout - what a shame it's not three times longer! After lunch, Vic led the meatier Biceps Wall at hardish VS. Another wet, almost bouldery start gains a niche via an awkward mantel. Then easier climbing leads to a distinct and unique crux - hard to describe the solution to this move, but it involves a trailing left leg and an awkward jam. The final wall is no pushover - fingery moves on small holds for the grade. We finished with Kneecap, a rather obscure route which was something of a sandbag. It takes the obvious green groove up the front edge of the east buttress. The bottom section below the overhang was very wet, and gave a physical, thrutchy struggle to gain a small ledge. The green groove was reasonable by comparison, and led to a ledge with a huge abandoned nest (raven or buzzard?). Above, the route stayed tough, with a steep flake crack leading to a final awkward mantel.

Fox Trot fell race

Race: Fox Trot fell race, Colwyn Bay (7m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 52:55 (5th from 45 [1st v40])
As with the Pincyn race last week, this is an excellent new event. It's also a very similar kind of race, a sort of fell/trail/XC hybrid in an unlikely locale, and as such is runnable and quite fast throughout. The route left Rydal school to climb up to Pwllycrochan woods, cross-country style running through the woods to gain the secluded Nant y Glyn. The route then climbs quite gradually south up this valley to a highpoint near Mynydd Llanelian before a wonderful long descent through fields via Cilgwyn Mawr - with great sea views - led back to the woods and school. I went reasonably well on the long climb, really enjoyed it, and almost drew level with the 3rd and 4th placed runners (Neil well out in front again). However, my lack of speedwork told again on the long descent and I finished one place down on last week, in fifth overall. I won the v40 category again.

Y Garn mountaineering

Peaks/Crag: Y Garn, Nantlle
Routes: Eastern Arete (VD:led p.1,3,5)
Crag: Clogwyn y Garreg
Routes: The Magic Sod (D:sol), In Search of Perpetual Motion (D:sol)
If yesterday was the outcrop day, today was very much the traditional Victorian mountain day. A complete contrast, variety being the spice of life. Left Llan Ffestiniog at 7am for a run from the house all the way up Cwm Teigl to the top of Graig Ddu quarry and back. Quite a steep finish. Back for breakfast and shower, before meeting Alwyn in Rhyd Ddu at 9.15am. After being rained off Y Garn last September, we found ourselves in light drizzle again as we started the steep and possibly illicit walk-in from Bwlchgylfin. Eastern Arete is fairly obvious - there's only two real lines here, and I began the first pitch in a cold wind. After an easy chimney I entered a vegetated and muddy groove. Unpleasant, so I moved on to the arete - more like HS - and finished up that to a loose short wall. Alwyn led a short pitch, before I led a much better third (with very cold hands) up a steep but positive crack to a sloping ledge. An easy corner then leads to short, slabby wall and an easy horizontal ridge. Much better rock on this section, which continued for Alwyn's pitch up a hidden crack right of the ridge which led up to another easy horizontal section. It remained cold and windy as I finished up the final obvious groove before scrambling led to the summit. Hardly classic climbing but a nice esoteric route in a fabulous isolated position above Nantlle. The ridge really does finish on the summit and it has a genuine mountaineering feel. After lunch on the summit (last visited for about two seconds during the fell race in 2008), glad to be out of the cold wind, we ambled down the ridge towards Rhyd Ddu before branching off along the track back to the Bwlch. It was still only lunchtime, so I jogged around Llyn y Dywarchen to little Clogwyn y Garreg. I nipped up the obvious slab above the lake, only later finding that it was a named Diff! I then walked over the little knoll to find another easy 20m slab in a lovely isolated hollow overlooking Moel Eilio and Craig y Bera. Reminiscent of the Red Slab in Cwm Graianog. Finished off by taking the subsidiary slab (left), moving right to gain the arete of the Dywarchen slab to give a better, cleaner route to the top.

Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Routes: Hogmanay Hangover (HS 4b,4b:led p.2), Holloway p.1 (VS 4c:led), Alcatraz/Bucket Rider (HVS 5a:sec), Scratch Arete (HVS 4c,5a:led p.1)
Low cloud and drizzle forecast for the hills, so a day at Tremadog seemed in order. We didn't arrive until lunchtime, and eased ourself back into climbing after several weeks off with a lead of one of the crag's easy routes which we located from the road. It can be tricky to find the more esoteric routes at Tremadog, so it's worth going for them when you find them. Actually, Hogmanay Hangover does get a bit of traffic and is a nice route. Vic led the first pitch, which goes awkwardly up smooth, slatey rock (reminiscent of parts of Craig y Gesail) until you move round a corner to gain the rib. Then good simple climbing on more typical Tremadog rock goes up a nicely positioned blunt rib to the belay. Vic's friend, Caroline, went up next, before I led through up the top two pitches (merged) on a single 9mm. This involved a simple groove up to a loose flake, then an interesting traverse across a sloping ledge to the arete and a nicely positioned finish. Caroline then left, and we found the start of Holloway. I led up this simple vegetated rib (don't know why it gets 4c) to the start of Alcatraz: the only way to gain the start ledge. Vic then led up Alcatraz, but traversed across into the groove of Bucket Rider (E1 5b). We ended up combining the two routes: awkward bridging up the rounded Bucket Rider groove to moves right into the niche of Alcatraz, quite sustained, before some interesting steep finishing moves up the wall. Finished up with the classic Scratch Arete after cleverly avoiding the crowds earlier on. I led pitch one, which goes scrappily up to a final crack and bulge. This gives surprisingly steep and strenuous climbing to the belay. The top pitch is superb but (I thought) easier than the first. An excellent slab leads across to the arete, then the celebrated move over the overlap. This is surprisingly positive and rough, and gains a large jug quite quickly. Above this, the route follows big flakes in a splendid position to finish up a more awkward jamming crack. Very easy for the grade, but a fine route. We then retired for refreshments in Llan Ffestiniog.