Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Mogadishu (f4+:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Indian Summer (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), October Premiere (f5+:led), Conan the Libertarian (f6a:sec), Finale (f5:sec)
Plans to head up to the East Face of Bristly Ridge dissipated in torrential rain and -6C windchill a few minutes into the walk up Cwm Tryfan. A miserably wet drive back down the A55 saw us pull into Castle Inn in a last-ditch attempt to salvage something: the only possible option although it was still raining when Dale led the very scrappy new route on the left of the crag. Seconded the 6a arete, before leading the adjacent School Mam in strong winds and light rain. I think I last led this many years ago when it was a disjointed 6b, traversing in from the right. The new line is more direct, giving easier but better climbing. Despite the weather, I cruised up the route and found it surprisingly good, one of the best routes here: very nice moves up small but positive holds and edges lead to juggier climbing at the overlap. A heavy squally shower then drenched the crag, so we had lunch in the car before moving over to the newly developed Fine View Wall which was sheltered from the worst of the wind and rain. Indian Summer gives some very nice climbing, up small positive edges on very rough, excellent limestone (by UK standards). Sadly, it is a rather contrived line which is just a bit too close to the arete and the adjacent VS. Dale led Route 1, which I then went up for the 10th time! Finished with two new chossy routes on a hidden wall to the right, which were at least out of the wind. Decent workouts but a tad dirty.