Craig y Clipiau climbs

Crag: Craig y Clipiau, Moelwynion
Routes: Mean Feet (HVS 4b,5a:led p.1), Double Criss (VS 4c,4c:led p.1), Vestix (HVS 5a:sec), Depression Direct (HS 4b:led), Jones's Crack (VS 4c+:sec)
A productive afternoon's cragging at this fine venue. I remember climbing numerous routes here in freezing weather in 1996, but we both had several gaps to fill - and did so pleasingly efficiently after a late start. Mean Feet is one of the best routes at Clipiau, and an obvious target. I led the easy first pitch, which takes a clear line of jugs in an increasingly fine position traversing left to a small stance. Vic then led the obvious steep groove, which gives awkward bridging using small but conveniently placed pockets to gain a ledge. Excellent steep climbing on very rough juggy rock leads to the top. I then led the long (30m) first pitch of Double Criss - a surprisingly committing start leads to an archetypal Moelwyn slab of bubbly rock which tapers up to the final steep wall. Gentle but absorbing climbing leads via a huge flake to a short quartzy slab and belay. Vic led the very short final pitch: a thrutchy crack made easier, although hardly more elegant, by smearing on the right wall to gain the obvious jug. We moved round to the west facing buttress, following the sun as it began to emerge from thick cloud. Vic wanted to lead Vestix, and it was a fine choice. A steep crack leads to a splendid hand traverse left to the arete before a distinct and strenuous crux move up the arete with very little for the feet gains a rest. Easier but very good climbing up the arete on superb rock to finish. The most obvious line hereabouts is Depression Direct, which I selected for my lead. An easy, rather ill-defined crack gains a blocky ledge before a splendid finish up the very obvious steep continuation crack. The crux is literally the final move. The clouds dissolved to give a superb evening, with the crag in perfect sunny conditions as Vic led the severely undergraded Jones's Crack. More like HVS 5a/b than the grade given. The first crack required a tenuous layaway move to small holds further right, and the continuation crack also had a tough move to gain easier climbing. Delightful evening sunshine, so we walked a little way into Cwm Orthin before retiring to Llan Ffestiniog.